Mountain

Jialishan (加里山)

Miaoli’s Jiali Mountain has been a hike that has been at the top of my list of trails to check out for quite some time, but has sadly stayed that way due to it being somewhat inaccessible, that is, if you don’t have your own means of transportation - So, when a good friend of mine sent a late night text asking: “Jialishan, this Sunday, you in?”, I didn’t need to take any time to consider, it was an automatic yes.

And, let me tell you, I was so happy that I was able to add this one to my list of mountains in Taiwan that I’ve hiked.

The weather that day was absolutely perfect, the light on the trail was beautiful, the scenery on the peak was spectacular, and I also met some cool new hiking friends in the process!

Nicknamed Taiwan’s Mount Fuji (台灣富士山), with a peak reaching 2220 meters, Jialishan is one of the highest of Taiwan’s ‘100 Minor Peaks’ (小百岳), a group of mountains that range between elevations of 2600m at the highest and 20m at the lowest. Unlike Taiwan’s highest peaks, however, each of which reach over 3000m in height, the ‘Minor Peaks’ are a constantly evolving selection of popular day-hikes that range from entry-level hikes, with easy access to public transportation, to hikes like this one that require a little more skill and effort to complete.

Whereas the major peaks often require permits and a commitment of several days to complete, many are surprised to learn that they may have already completed some of the ‘Minor Peaks,’ some of which include Taipei’s Qixing Mountain (七星山), Jiantan Mountain (劍潭山) and the so-called ‘Four Beasts Mountains’ (四獸山). So, if you’ve found yourself on the peak of Taipei’s Elephant Mountain (象山) enjoying the spectacular views of the Taipei cityscape, you’ve already been on at least one of the ‘minor peaks’.

In each case, the hikes mentioned above are easy to get to, and don’t particularly require too much effort or skill to complete. That being said, there are a number of hikes on the list, mostly located in central Taiwan, that are considerably more difficult, and require a lot more effort. At 2663m, the highest mountain on the list, Mount Daito (大塔山), might not be the most difficult to complete, but still, it takes the better part of a day. The fifth highest mountain on the list, Jialishan, similarly takes the better part of a day to complete, but isn’t exactly the easiest to reach, nor is it the easiest for most people to complete.

Nevertheless, the challenges you face while hiking the trail aren’t likely to outweigh the rewards as you’ll enjoy dense forests of Japanese cedar, a historic timber railway, and stunning views of the several mountain ranges.

Hiking the mountain on a clear day, we were able to enjoy a view of Taiwan’s second-highest peak, Snow Mountain (雪山), which was covered in snow at the time. At the same time, thanks to the peak being the highest in the area, we were also rewarded with 360 degree views of the Central Mountain Range, which includes the Alishan Mountain Range (阿里山山脈) to the south, where Mount Daito, mentioned above is the highest peak.

Given that I love hiking Taiwan’s mountains, and the hike also included a walk along a historic Japanese-era railway, this is exactly the kind of experience that the doctor ordered after a long, rainy and cold Lunar New Year holiday. The popularity of this hike shouldn’t surprise anyone as all of your sweat won’t compare to the rewards you’ll receive at the peak.

Today, I’m going to introduce the trails on the hike, talk a bit about the railway you’ll see along the way, and offer information about how to get there so that anyone wanting to enjoy the hike has the information they need to get there. Unfortunately, I have to preface this by letting you know that for most foreign visitors, getting to the trail isn’t that easy, and its likely that you’ll need help in that department, so I’ll be providing links to groups that will be able to help arrange transportation and guides.

Jialishan (加里山)

Before I start introducing the trails on the hike, let me first take some time to provide some practical information about the mountain and the range that it is a part of. If you’re already familiar with Taiwan’s geography, you’re likely aware that the country is geologically ‘split’ between the eastern and western sides by several mountain ranges. The term “Central Mountain Range” is probably the most well-known in this regard, but there are actually several ranges that make up what is essentially the spine of Taiwan, including the Alishan Range (阿里山山脈), Xueshan Range (雪山山脈), the Coastal Mountain Range (海岸山脈) and the Yushan Range (玉山山脈).

The Jialishan Mountain Range (加里山山脈), is located on the north-western edge of the spine spreading from Nantou County (南投縣) in central Taiwan to Keelung (基隆) on the north coast. About 180 kilometers in length, the range includes a number of mountains, several of which are well over 2000 meters in height, most notably Jialishan at 2,220 meters, Dongxishui Shan (東洗水山) at 2,248 meters, and the highest mountain on the range, Le Mountain (樂山) at 2,618 meters. While they not be the largest on the range, there are a number of peaks that are part of the Jialishan Range that are incredibly popular with tourists, some of which I already mentioned above, such as Elephant Mountain (香山), Jinmian Mountain (金面山), Jiantan Mountain (劍潭山), Bitou Cape (鼻頭角), etc.

A snow-capped Snow Mountain in the distance.

Suffice to say, you may not have heard the term before, but if you’ve spent any time hiking in Taipei, you’re likely to have found yourself enjoying one of the mountains that is part of the mountain range.

Despite Jialishan itself not being the highest peak on the range, geographer Tomita Yoshirou (富田芳郎 / とみたよしろう) and geologist Lin Chaoqi (林朝棨) coined the term during the Japanese-era, and it stuck. That being said, there is debate as to whether the ‘Jialishan Range’ is actually a mountain range or not. Similarly known as the “Western Thrust Fault Mountains” (西部衝上斷層山地), one of the main reasons why it’s not incorporated into the Xueshan Range is due to differences in the range’s geology, which is more similar to that of the Alishan Range to the south. Another reason why there is debate as to whether or not it is a mountain range on its own is because its topography is cut by several different rivers, which act as tributaries for some of Taiwan’s major sources of fresh water.

The debate as to whether it’s a mountain range or not really isn’t the point for this article, but as the namesake for the range, Jialishan is not only a popular hike, but a prominent mountain as well. Located between Miaoli County’s Nanzhuang (南庄鄉) and Tai’an (泰安鄉) townships, the mountain has been known throughout history as “Jiali'xian Mountain” (加里仙山), Santai Mountain (三台山), or Jialishan (嘉璃山), which has a similar pronunciation to the current name, but uses different Chinese characters. Today, the mountain is officially know as “Jiali Mountain” (加里山), but is also nicknamed ‘Miaoli Mountain’ (苗栗縣山), and since the Japanese-era, it has been referred to as ‘Taiwan’s Fuji Mountain’ (台灣富士山).

The Jialishan trailhead is located deep within the mountains, and as mentioned earlier, isn’t the easiest to get to, but as you pass through the historic Hakka village of Nanzhuang and make your way further up into the mountains, you’ll discover that you’re passing through several indigenous communities, and the further you make your way up the road to the trailhead, the more remote you’ll find these communities become, consisting mostly of mountain-side farms.

Note: Located within Nanzhuang Township, you’ll find the following indigenous tribes: Rareme’an (向天湖部落), Kahkahoe’an (八卦力部落), Hororok (鵝公髻部落), Walo’ (瓦祿部落), Ray’in (蓬萊部落), Sasasezeman (東江新邨部落), Raisinay (石壁部落), P’anoh (鹿場部落), Sinpitu (鹿湖部落), Haboeh (大窩山部落), Batbato’an (二坪部落), Tamayo’an (大湳部落), all of which are members of the Saisiyat People (賽夏族), one of the smallest of Taiwan’s officially recognized indigenous groups, mostly located within Hsinchu County and Miaoli County.

Link: Council of Indigenous Peoples (原住民族委員會)

The important thing to remember about the road to Jialishan is that the further you drive into the mountains, the narrower, and more steep the road becomes. It’s not an easy road for most vehicles, and you need to drive carefully and constantly be aware of and considerate of on-coming traffic. On our drive to the trailhead, we encountered a relatively new Lexus that was overheating and had to stop on the side of the road to let the car cool down. With that in mind, you’ll want to keep not only your own physical condition in mind, but also the condition of your vehicle before attempting to reach the trailhead.

Once you’ve arrived at the parking lot, you’ll pay a small parking fee, and the trailhead is a short walk away.

Jialishan Trail (加里山登山步道)

A short distance from where you park your car, you’ll find the trailhead marker for the trail, where you’re likely to encounter fellow hikers taking photos prior to setting off, or just after they’ve finished their hike. The marker includes both the name of the trail and a map of the routes you can take through the forest. While looking at the map, you’re likely to notice that you have a few options on the hike, but most people choose to hike to the peak, and then either leaving the way they came, or completing a circuit from the trailhead to the peak, to another peak, and then down through the historic timber railway trail.

The first option, which is probably the most popular, is just over seven kilometers in length, and will likely take anywhere between six and seven hours to complete. That, however, depends on the amount of time you take to enjoy the peak, and how often you take breaks.

The circuit hike on the other hand takes considerably longer, and is almost double the length. While the vast majority of people hiking the trail are likely only hiking in and out, if you’re like myself and want to enjoy the complete experience, the most important thing you’re going to have to keep in mind is the time you’re setting off from the trailhead - if you aren’t at the trailhead shortly after the sunrise, its probably not a great idea to hike the circuit as you’re likely to find yourself hiking out in the dark. Today, I’ll be sharing photos from the circuit hike, which my group started shortly after 7:30am, and didn’t actually finish until close to 4:00 in the afternoon. So, for your own personal safely, you’re going to want to keep this in mind prior to starting the hike.

As I move on below, I’ll introduce both the in-and-out ‘Jialishan Return’ hike as well as the ‘Circuit Hike’ with an introduction to each of the hikes, a break down of the routes you’ll take, and offer downloadable GPX files that you can put on your phone prior to the hike. Then I’ll offer information about how to get to the trail and the things you’ll need to bring with you.

Jialishan Return Trip

As I’ve mentioned a few times already, the in-and-out route is probably the preferred hike for most people hiking this mountain - It’s a straight forward 3.9 kilometer hike to the peak, and then heading back the way you came. I’ve seen some articles claim that the hike is seven kilometers in length, but the good people at the Hiking Journal (健行筆記), one of Taiwan’s best resources for information about mountains and trails, have a detailed break down of the hike with GPX that show that its actually closer to eight.

The estimated break down for the hike is as follows:

Jialishan Trailhead (加里山鹿場登山口) → Fengmei River (風美溪) - 0.6K, 15min

Fengmei River → Refuge Hut (避難山屋) - 1.3K, 70min

Refuge Hut - #9 Boulder Ascent ( 九號救援椿陡升坡) - 1.3K, 45min

#9 Boulder Ascent → Jialishan Peak (加里山三角點) - 0.5K, 45min

Jialishan Peak - Jialishan Trailhead - 3.9K, 175min

Once you’ve parked your car, you’ll find it’s a very short walk to the trailhead and given that you’ve already travelled so far up into the mountains already, it shouldn’t be much of a surprise that the transition from paved parking lot to nature is almost instantaneous. For much of the first hour or two of the hike, you’ll be passing through a forest of Japanese cedar trees that date back to Taiwan’s Japanese era (1895 - 1945), part of a reforestation effort after the timber industry culled the original forest. It’s not until you reach higher elevations that you’ll encounter the mountain’s native alpine-like forest.

Even though the trail is well-maintained, one of the things you’ll have to be mindful of while hiking are all of the tree roots that you’ll encounter along the trail. In some areas, the roots are absolutely beautiful, especially when the morning light is shining on them, so even though you need to tread carefully, they’re also an enjoyable aspect of the hike. Similarly, the first portion of the hike travels along an abandoned railway, so you’ll have to be careful while walking along the rails as some of them have become dislodged over the decades.

Along the way, you’ll encounter several rest stops where you and your party can sit, catch your breath, or have a snack. The stops usually feature a bench, but the higher you get, you’ll also find that the trail is home to some really large boulders that are pretty good for sitting on as well.

You’ll also come across periodic trail markers that provide information about the direction hikers need to take, and the remaining length of the trail that are meant to help you from getting lost.

Shortly after starting the hike, you’ll have to cross the Fengmei River (風美溪), but don’t worry, you won’t get wet. There are large rocks you can walk on and ropes that assist you in crossing the river. Prior to crossing the river, the hike is a quaint walk through a flat forest, leading you to think that its going to be a pretty easy day.

After crossing the river, though, the flat sections of trail are few and far between as the trail becomes quite steep. This is where the rest stops come in handy as you’ll undoubtedly need to take breaks. Later on, there are several slopes that you’ll have to climb, so if you have brought gloves with you, you’ll probably want to put them on to keep your hands soft and pretty.

That being said, the slopes are rarely very difficult to walk up, so even though it’s advised that you bring a pair of gloves with you on the hike, it’s not like other popular hikes like Wuliaojian (五寮尖), Stegosaurus Ridge (劍龍稜) or Huang Di Dian (皇帝殿) where gloves are an absolute necessity.

After a few hours of hiking, you’ll reach the aptly named ‘#9 Boulder Ascent’ rock, which comes with a warning sign for danger, but don’t let it scare you, it’s pretty easy to walk up the rock, and once you get to the top, you’re treated to your first glimpse of the amazing views that the peak is renowned for, looking directly toward the Snow Mountain Range.

From there, the peak is only a few hundred meters away, and once you arrive you’ll be treated to 360 degree views of several different mountain ranges. While at the top, you’ll likely want to take a photo with the stone triangulation point (三角點), identifying the peak of Jialishan, with the name of the mountain and its elevation, for your collection.

The peak tends to be quite windy as it’s completely open to the elements, so even though you’ll want to stay there to enjoy the view for a while, it’s probably a good idea to wear a hat to prevent yourself from getting sunstroke. You might also need a windbreaker, even on a hot day.

While we were on the peak, there was a group of seasoned Taiwanese hikers who had nestled themselves into a flat spot and were having a massive full course spread before leaving. So, if you can find a spot, you’ll probably want to have something to eat before heading back.

Once you’re done on the peak, simply head back down the way you came.

This time, though, you’ll want to take extra care on the slopes as you’ll be walking down them instead of up, and you might run into traffic along the way. Take it slow.

Trailhead (登山口): Jialishan Hiking Trail (加里山登山步道)

Trail Length (步道里程): 7.8km

Altitude (海拔高度): 1280-2220m

Time: 6-7 hours

Difficulty: (難易度): Medium

Permit: (申請入山): No

The downloadable GPX for the Jialishan Return hike is linked below:

Link: Jialishan Return Hike (健行筆記)

Jialishan - Dujuanling Circuit (加里山 - 杜鵑嶺)

Your other option, which if you have enough time - I highly recommend, is to complete the Jialishan - Dujuanling Circuit hike. However, with the in-and-out route reaching nearly eight kilometers, it’s already quite long for what most people are comfortable with for a day hike. The circuit route is considerably longer, more difficult, and requires a lot more time, but along the way you’ll make your way to Dujuanling (杜鵑嶺), another peak, and get to experience a completely different forest, one that was left somewhat untouched by the timber industry, before making your way to the historic timber railway part of the route.

The break down for the circuit hike is as follows:

Jialishan Trailhead (加里山鹿場登山口) → Fengmei River (風美溪) - 0.6K, 15min

Fengmei River → Refuge Hut (避難山屋) - 1.3K, 70min

Refuge Hut - #9 Boulder Ascent ( 九號救援椿陡升坡) - 1.3K, 45min

#9 Boulder Ascent → Jialishan Peak (加里山三角點) - 0.5K, 45min

Jialishan Peak → Dujuanling (杜鵑嶺) - 1.7K, 40min

Dujuanling → Marker #4 (杜鵑嶺四號救援椿) - 1.0K, 50min

Marker #4 → Marker #14 (14號救援椿) - 1.3K, 60min

Marker #14 → Jialishan Trail (加里山登山口叉) - 2.7k, 70min

Jilishan Trail → Refuge Hut - 2.7K, 70min

Refuge Hut - Jialishan Trailhead - 1.9K, 50min

The circuit hike follows the same route to the peak of Jialishan, but once you’ve reached the peak, you’ll continue walking along the ridge on a path that takes you to another peak named Dujuanling (杜鵑嶺). Completely different than the peak of Jialishan, this one is tree-covered and measures at an altitude of 2113m, just seven meters lower than the Jialishan. For a lot of hikers, the hike to Dujuanling means that they get to cross another one off of their list, so it’s well worth the extra effort.

That being said, there’s not much to see at the peak of Dujuanling, so you’ll probably just take a photo with the triangulation point and then continue making your way back down to the trailhead.

As mentioned earlier, one of the main reasons why the circuit hike is more attractive is that you get to travel through a more untouched portion of the forest, and then meet up with the area where a historic trolly system met with the timber railway.

Unlike the first portion of the trail, which pretty much just goes up, this part of the circuit trail has several areas where you’re going up, down, up, and then down again - it’s a lot harder on the legs - so if you’re hiking this one, you’re going to get a pretty good workout on the extra four kilometers of trail. Once again, given that you’ll need a few extra hours to complete this hike, the time you arrive at the trailhead is really important, as is your level of fitness. Requiring around eight hours, if you haven’t arrived early enough, it’s probably not a good idea to hike the circuit.

Trailhead (登山口): Jialishan Hiking Trail (加里山登山步道)

Trail Length (步道里程): 12.5km

Altitude (海拔高度): 1280-2220m

Time: 7-9 hours

Difficulty: (難易度): Medium-Difficult

Permit: (申請入山): No

The downloadable GPX for the Jialishan Circuit Trail is linked below:

Link: Jialishan Circuit Trail GPX (健行筆記)

Jialishan Timber Railway (加里山林業鐵道)

The historic ‘Old Street’ in Nanzhuang (南庄老街) has been a popular destination for weekend tourist crowds for quite a while, but unlike most of Taiwan’s other so-called ‘Old Streets’, such as Daxi Old Street (大溪老街), the history of Nanzhuang isn’t very well advertised. When you visit, you’ll find an incredible amount of Hakka and Indigenous culture and cuisine lining the streets, but explanations as to why the village was once so prosperous are hard to come by.

Like most of Taiwan’s other tourist old streets, you’ll find buildings constructed with baroque facades, a massive temple, and vendors lining the streets selling local snacks, but one of the problems caused by Miaoli being Taiwan’s most debt-ridden county is that it is unable to restore buildings of historic significance. In Nanzhuang’s case, the village would do well to follow the example of Daxi, and restore some of the buildings that were instrumental in bringing so much wealth to the village.

Link: The Daxi that Japan left behind (日本留下的大溪)

In 1918 (大正7年), the Taiwan Governor General’s Office established the Nanzhuang Camphor Forest Operations Headquarters (南庄樟林作業所), and over the next few decades, the village experienced massive growth thanks to the Forestry Industry, extracting not only camphor from the mountains, but citronella oil and coal, as well.

Jialishan, the highest mountain in the area was home to a large amount of camphor (樟腦), an incredibly important natural resource during the Japanese era, so the mountain became home to a highly developed logging industry that boasted over 5,200 meters of railway, and a cable trolly that transported timber down the mountain.

When the Japanese era came to an end, the timber industry continued for a short time, but the operation was eventually abandoned as camphor reserves were depleted, and its importance wained in favor of a synthetic alternative. Left abandoned for decades, the railway and (amazingly) some of the trolly equipment can still be found on the mountain today. As you hike the mountain, you’ll have the opportunity to walk along the historic railway in areas where the rails are still intact, but changes in the landscape over the years have made it so that the original route isn’t accessible or safe to hike.

While I do write hiking guides somewhat regularly, one of my areas of expertise with regard to my research and writing about Taiwan focuses on the island’s fifty year of Japanese colonial rule. Most of you are here for information on the hike, but I think it’s important to note how that period transformed a lot of what you’ll experience when you hike the Jialishan Trail today. The key thing to keep in mind was that in addition to Taiwan’s fruit, sugar and coal, camphor was one of the most important natural resources extracted by the Japanese, making the island an untapped treasure trove that assisted in amassing massive amounts of foreign exchange and fueling Taiwan’s development.

One area that is quite admirable, especially when you look back with a modern view of these things, is that there was enough foresight to realize that the extraction of camphor was an unsustainable industry, and that the reforestation of these mountainous areas was essential for not only the long-term health of the timber industry, but for the natural environment as well.

Scientists were sent to Taiwan to set up research stations in many of the main timber industry locations around the island, such as those in nearby Kappazan (角板山) and Chikuto (竹東). It was in these stations where they made scientific breakthroughs, such as in the cultivation of cinchona (金雞納樹), a flowering plant known for its medicinal value, especially with regard to treating malaria. In other cases, many of the mountainous forests around Taiwan were reforested with Japanese cedar (杉 / すぎ), which was also incredibly important for the future development and construction projects across Taiwan.

Today, you’ll find several ‘Forest Recreation Parks’ (森林遊樂區) around Taiwan that were once occupied by the timber industry, but have been converted into mountainous hiking trails where people are able to escape the city and enjoy nature. Dongyanshan (東眼山) in the mountains of Taoyuan is another well-known example, and is an area that was also reforested with beautiful Japanese cedars that have been growing for nearly a century.

Link: Dongyanshan Forest Recreation Park (東眼山國家森林遊樂區)

For a lot of hikers, the abandoned railway on this hike is reminiscent of what you’ll experience on other popular tourist mountains, like Alishan (阿里山) and Taipingshan (太平山), but in this case, the railway isn’t as accessible, so the photos you’ll get won’t be the same as those that have become popular on Instagram in recent years!

preparing for the Hike

As mentioned earlier, while preparing to hike Jialishan, there are a few things you’ll first need to take into consideration as well as some other things you’ll want to take along with you for the hike, so I’ll offer a few helpful suggestions for those of you wanting to enjoy this trail.

The first, and probably most important thing you’ll want to consider is your level of fitness, and the amount of time you have to complete the hike.

In both cases, you’ll want to arrive early in the morning to start the hike, but when it comes to the ‘circuit’ hike, both the amount of time you have, and your level of fitness are going to be major factors in your level of success. The circuit hike is a lot longer, and a lot more difficult to complete, and you’re going to have to carry a lot more water and food with you if you choose that option. As a frequent hiker, when I’m not climbing mountains, I spend a lot of time on cardio at the gym, and still, at the end of this one, my legs were feeling a bit like rubber. If you have doubts, I highly recommend sticking to the shorter hike.

Things you’ll need to bring:

  • Water - It’s advisable that you carry at least 2-3 litres of water with you on this hike. Depending on how much water you drink, you might even want to carry more with you just in case. I completed the circuit hike, and I can attest that 2L was not sufficient.

  • Food - You should prepare some high-protein snacks, and bring a lunch that you can enjoy while hiking. As you pass through Nanzhuang, there are a number of convenience stores and supermarkets where you can stop and purchase snacks, but that will be your last chance to purchase anything, so make sure you have what you need beforehand, and also don’t forget to carry your garbage out with you.

  • Gloves - There are a number of areas where you’re going to have to pull yourself up a rock face with the help of ropes. The ropes are a great help, but they can be hard on your skin. You’ll probably want to prepare a pair of gloves that you can put on when necessary. Most hardware stores in Taiwan sell cheap $10NT work gloves that you can purchase for hikes like this. You don’t need to buy an expensive pair of gloves at a hiking store.

  • Sun Protection - One of my worst habits is that I rarely remember to prepare sunscreen (or a hat) for the hikes I go on, and I often end up getting heat stroke, which was the case with this hike. During the hike, especially when nearing the peak, you are going to be completely open to the sun, so you’ll want to make sure to prepare both sunscreen and a hat to protect yourself.

  • Towel / Quick Dry Clothing - You’re going to sweat on this one, so I highly recommend you bring a towel with you to wipe yourself down from time to time. I don’t sweat as much as most of my hiking friends, but I was absolutely dripping during this hike. Similarly, you’re going to want to wear quick-dry clothing to ensure that all of your sweat doesn’t result in you catching a cold when you’re done.

  • Windbreaker - While on the peak of the mountain, it’s going to be quite windy. You should probably consider preparing a windbreaker jacket to protect yourself.

  • Phone / Camera - This is something that I probably don’t really have to mention, but if the photos in this article aren’t already evidence enough, the trail and the peak are absolutely beautiful. You’ll definitely want to have something to help record your experience. On that note, though, if you have a drone, you should leave it at home. The peak of Jialishan is in a restricted zone, so you’ll have carried your heavy drone for nothing as it won’t take off unless you have a special permit.

  • Friends to enjoy the experience with - Hiking is always better with friends. For safety, don’t hike this one alone. Friends are also useful for helping to take photos.

Getting There

Jialishan Hiking Trail

Address: Luchang Communication Rd, Nanzhuang Township, Miaoli County (苗栗縣南庄鄉東河村鹿場24鄰19-20號)

GPS: 24.586000, 120.997240

Alright, so here’s the bad news. Getting to Jialishan isn’t so easy.

You more or less need to have your own means of transportation, and the road to the mountain is very remote and narrow. It’s more or less impossible for a bus to get up there, and if someone even attempted it, it would cause massive traffic jams or accidents on what are cliff-side roads.

The address and GPS coordinates I’ve provided above aren’t for the trailhead, they’re for the parking lot that is made available to hikers a short walk from where the trail starts.

If you have your own means of transportation, the parking lot has a fee of $100NT for the day, no matter how long you’re on the trail, and there will be people there to direct you where to park.

Included in your parking fees are access to a public restroom where you can use the washroom before and after your hike, or simply just to wash up.

The Parking Lot on Google Maps is listed as the “Jialishan Trailhead Forest Camping Area” (加里山登山口森林露營區), and there are camp grounds near by, which might actually be quite useful if you can get to the trail the night before and wake up early in the morning for the hike.

In terms of public transportation, there’s nothing that will get you even remotely close to the trail, so your only option would be to hop on a bus to Nanzhuang and then grabbing a taxi to the trailhead. That being said, getting back down from there would be a bit of a nightmare as its unlikely that many taxi drivers would be willing to go that far and take their car on the steep road just to pick you and your group up.

If you’re intent on hiking the trail, you’re in luck, as the best option would be to take a chartered ride with the good people at Parkbus, who often schedule trips to this mountain (as well as others) for a minimal charge.

I can’t guarantee the frequency for which they plan trips to this specific mountain, but as I’m looking at the site now, their next trip to Jialishan is taking place a month from now, so they likely have a regular schedule of trips to the mountain that you’ll want to keep track of.

Their services include both pick up and drop off at Taipei Station, so you’ll have your travel completely covered, as well as the assistance of an experienced English-speaking guide.

Link: Jiali Mountain -加里山 (Parkbus)

Long on my list of trails to hike, I have to say, I was quite content with this one. The day we hiked the mountain was absolutely beautiful with great weather and clear skies. The trail was fun, and even though I was feeling the pain when I got home, it was well worth it. The views from the peak of Jialishan are spectacular, and if you’re well-versed in Taiwan’s geography, you’ll easily be able to point out some of the other major mountains off in the distance. Suffice to say, this is a hike that is highly recommended, but you need to keep your level of fitness in mind, and make sure that you bring enough water and snacks to keep your body well-fueled for the experience.

If you end up hiking the mountain, have fun and be safe!


References

  1. 加里山 (Wiki)

  2. 加里山山脈 | Jialishan Range (Wiki)

  3. 台灣小百岳 (Wiki)

  4. 台灣小百岳列表 (Wiki)

  5. 加里山登山步道 (健行筆記)

  6. 加里山登山步道 | Mt. Jiali Summit Trail (台灣山林悠遊網)

  7. 苗栗加里山步道 (WalkerLand)

  8. 台灣小百岳苗栗加里山 (GoSunBody)

  9. Jiali Mountain (Taiwan Trails and Tales)

  10. Jiali Mountain (Parkbus)

  11. Hiking Jialishan (Taiwan Outdoors)


Dongyanshan Forest Recreation Park (東眼山國家森林遊樂區)

Translated literally into English as “Eastern Eye Mountain,” the Dongyanshan Forest Recreation Park in Taoyuan has gone through what many would consider a surge in popularity over the past few years.

With the COVID-19 pandemic putting international tourism to a sudden halt, people in Taiwan were (probably for the first time in their lives) forced to look at destinations within their own borders for places where they could enjoy a bit of travel, while also staying safe from the virus.

Amazingly, despite the pandemic dealing a pretty harsh blow to international tourism, with little other option, the people of Taiwan it seems have started to appreciate their beautiful country a little more than they did in the past. For years, I’ve been standing here with a megaphone trying to convince people that Taiwan is one of the most beautiful countries in the world, but apparently all it took was a global pandemic to push people to come to the same conclusion.

In truth, it doesn’t really matter what caused this seismic shift in attitude with regard to domestic tourism in Taiwan. The important thing is that people have become content traveling around the country and enjoying its natural beauty. This has become especially true for the youth of the country, who have taken to outdoor activities like hiking mountains, river tracing, rock climbing, snorkeling, scuba diving, etc. Weekends and holidays typically see people traveling from one end of the country to the other to enjoy the hundreds of hiking trails or to the few areas of the island where the coral reef remains alive and well.

This sudden surge in domestic tourism, especially with regard to outdoor recreation, has forced something of a ‘reset’ with regard to how tourism is marketed around here. The pandemic may have forced the unfortunate closure of a number of the nation’s international travel agencies, but it has spawned a growing number of companies that have adapted by planning events to the mountains, outlying islands and even offering scuba-diving packages to those wanting to learn. Similarly, even though the nation’s beautiful mountains have always been accessible, the surge in interest in hiking them has forced the government to improve infrastructure in these areas, allowing more and more people to enjoy all of the breathtaking beauty that Taiwan has to offer.

One of the areas that have benefited most from this surge in domestic tourism are the nation’s ‘Forest Recreation Parks,’ which tend to be large mountainous parks where people of all ages can enjoy leisurely walks through the forest or difficult hikes to alpine mountain peaks. Some of these parks, Alishan (阿里山) and Taipingshan (太平山), for example, have always enjoyed the love and adoration of the Taiwanese public, but with more a dozen of similar parks across the country, people have started to take an interest in the others as well.

As the only one of these parks located in Taoyuan, and one of the most easily accessible within Northern Taiwan, the Dongyanshan Forest Recreation Park is one of those destinations that has received a considerable amount of attention over the past few years.

That being said, as an avid hiker, and one of the few vocal lovers of Taoyuan, I have to admit that over all of my years of living in Taiwan, I’m guilty of being a bit like everyone else in that I’ve only recently discovered the beauty of this National Forest Park. Nevertheless, now that Taiwan has reopened for international tourism, its important that destinations like this receive the attention they deserve, especially from foreign writers like myself.

I hope that this guide to the park, and the photos I’m sharing today help to convince you that a day-trip to Dongyanshan, whether it be with a tour group, or on your own, is well worth the time and effort that it takes to get there. Before I start talking about the park though, it’s probably a good idea to briefly introduce these ‘National Forest Parks’ so that you have a better idea of what to expect.

Taiwan’s National Forest Recreation Parks

Established by the Forestry Bureau in 1965 (民國54年), the government has designated a number of Taiwan’s mountainous areas as protected ‘Forest Recreation Parks’ (國家森林遊樂區). Over the six decades since these protected areas were established, the number of parks on the list has grown significantly, with many of them once utilized by the Forestry Bureau for the purpose of extracting natural resources.

Currently there are twenty-two designated areas around the country that have established Forest Recreation Parks, but that list of parks can often be somewhat confusing, even for locals, given that they often receive slightly different designations, and may or may not be included within what are considered National Parks (國家公園) or National Scenic Areas (國家級風景特定區). Officially, the list includes some twenty-two established areas, which are classified simply as ‘Forest Parks’ or ‘Forest Wetland Parks’, making the actual number of these spaces slightly misleading, given that they differ greatly in size and scope.

Nevertheless, no matter how you classify them, these parks range from tropical monsoon forests in the south and east of the country to temperate high-mountain forests in northern and central Taiwan. In each case, the Forestry Bureau has developed a system of walking paths and hiking trails within where visitors are able to enjoy the natural beauty of Taiwan at their leisure.

Below, I’ve compiled a list of the (current) areas classified as 'Forest Recreation Areas,’ each of which have become popular with local and international tourists, with a few of them becoming rather iconic.

    1. Taipingshan Forest Recreation Area (太平山國家森林遊樂區)

    2. Manyueyuan Forest Recreation Area (滿月圓國家森林遊樂區)

    3. Neidong Forest Recreation Area (內洞國家森林遊樂區)

    4. Dongyanshan Forest Recreation Area (東眼山國家森林遊樂區)

    5. Guanwu Forest Recreation Area (觀霧國家森林遊樂區)

    6. Mingchih Forest Recreation Area (明池國家森林遊樂區)

    7. Wuling Forest Recreation Area (武陵國家森林遊樂區)

    8. Basianshan Forest Recreation Area (八仙山國家森林遊樂區)

    9. Dasyueshan Forest Recreation Area (大雪山國家森林遊樂區)

    10. Hehuanshan Forest Recreation Area (合歡山國家森林遊樂區)

    11. Aowanda Forest Recreation Area (奧萬大國家森林遊樂區)

    12. Alishan Forest Recreation Area (阿里山國家森林遊樂區)

    13. Tengjhih Forest Recreation Area (藤枝國家森林遊樂區)

    14. Kenting Forest Recreation Area (墾丁國家森林遊樂區)

    15. Shuangliu Forest Recreation Area (雙流國家森林遊樂區)

    16. Jhihben Forest Recreation Area (知本國家森林遊樂區)

    17. Siangyang Forest Recreation Area (向陽國家森林遊樂區)

    18. Chihnan Forest Recreation Area (池南國家森林遊樂區)

    19. Fuyuan Forest Recreation Area (富源國家森林遊樂區)

Dongyanshan Forest Recreation Park

The ‘Dongyanshan Forest Recreation Park’ was established in 1991 (民國80年) on 916 hectares of land within Taoyuan’s mountainous Fuxing District (復興區). Originally home to the Llyung Topa (拉流斗霸) of the Tayal Indigenous people (泰雅族), the park, which spans an elevation from altitude of 650 - 1,212 meters above sea level sits on the western edge of Taiwan’s Snow Mountain Range (雪山山脈), and acts as a natural barrier separating the east of the country from the west, protecting Taoyuan and New Taipei City from typhoons and the northeast monsoon.

More commonly known these days as the Dabao Tribe (大豹社), named after the Dabao River (大豹溪) that flows from the mountains into Sanxia, a lot closer to the Manyueyuan Forest Recreation Park. In the late 1800s, the indigenous people were essentially pushed out of their homes, fleeing into the mountains, first by the Qing and then the Japanese.

The sad story started when the Qing government removed its prohibition regarding entering Taiwan’s mountainous regions (開山撫番). Shortly after, the Chinese started making their way into the territory of the Dabao Tribe in order to extract the area’s rich camphor reserves, resulting in the Takoham Incident (大嵙崁社事件), a violent affair that left many on both sides dead.

Later, when the Japanese took control of Taiwan, a similar push into the mountains took place, resulting in guerilla warfare between the indigenous people and the Japanese loggers. Eventually, the Governor-General sent the army marching into the mountains and pushed the Indigenous people out of their ancestral homes.

Link: Sanxia Loyal Spirit Monument (三峽忠魂碑)

The encroachment of the Japanese on indigenous territories across the island often resulted in violence and misery for Taiwan’s indigenous people, but as they stood in the way of the empire’s ambition for the extraction of the island’s precious natural resources, the violence was relentless and unforgiving.

By 1907 (明治40年), the Japanese had pushed their way from Abohei (Amuping / 阿姆坪) all the way to Kappanzan (Jiaobanshan / 角板山 / カッバンソァン), and once the area was firmly under their control, they started to develop a number of facilities dedicated to ensuring the efficiency of the extraction of natural resources from the mountains. Obviously, camphor (樟腦) was at the top on their list of resources to extract, and the area we refer to as Dongyanshan today became an important one for the Timber Industry (林業).

Realizing the extraction of camphor from the area wasn’t a sustainable industry, the Japanese brought with them scientists who set up a research station in Kappazan to search for breakthroughs in the cultivation of cinchona (金雞納樹), a flowering plant known for its medicinal value, especially with regard to treating malaria. In the areas where the cultivation of the plant wasn’t feasible, they ended up reforesting these areas with Japanese cedar, which was also incredibly important for the future development and construction projects across Taiwan.

When the Japanese-era came to an end in 1945, the extraction of camphor continued throughout the post-war era, pretty much until the supply was depleted. Afterwards, the focus of the timber industry shifted to the extraction of cedar which, (ironically was predominately sold back to the Japanese) continued for several decades until it was decided to convert the area into a Forest Park under the 1965 (民國54年) law mentioned above.

As Northern Taiwan’s largest Forest Recreation Park, the Forestry Bureau has done an excellent job creating a network of hiking trails combined with educational resources about the area’s history, making a visit both educational and enjoyable at the same time. Famed for it’s tall cedar forests and it’s ‘sea of clouds’ (雲海), Dongyanshan is not only home to stunning hiking trails, but a large collection of fossils, dating back almost thirty million years to a time when Taiwan was still submerged in the Pacific Ocean.

The park is also home to a number of indigenous animal, insect, and bird species, which you might be lucky enough to encounter during a hike through the forest. Obviously, the most outgoing of the bunch are the Formosan Rock Macaques (台灣獼猴), but you may also be lucky to encounter Red-bellied Squirrels (赤腹松鼠), Formosan Hares (台灣野兔), frogs, snakes, and other smaller reptiles, such as the Formosan pangolin (台灣鯪鯉). The area is also a paradise for bird watchers, so if you’re into that kind of thing, you might want to bring some binoculars along with you!

Points of Interest (東眼山景點)

With the park’s surge in popularity over the past few years, it has also undergone some changes with the addition of some points of interest that help to ensure that a trip there is accessible for one and all. So, before I move on to introducing the trails within the park, I’ll offer a brief introduction of some of the facilities within, so that you have a better idea of what to expect when you visit.

It’s important to keep in mind that although I’m providing a map of the park, it’s essentially the most recent one that is available. Things may ultimately change with the park facilities in the future, so if you visit, I highly recommend grabbing a park brochure at the ticket booth, which will provide the most recent map.

Restrooms (廁所)

Never fear, Dongyanshan Forest Park is a very family-friendly space and unlike most hiking trail across the country, you’ll find that there are several washroom facilities available to hikers and tourists. There are restrooms located within the Tourist Visitor Center as well as several recently constructed facilities along the trails as well - If you find yourself in need, just check out the map of the park given to you at the ticket booth, which displays the locations of all the restrooms.

As I’m writing this article, there are nine different washroom facilities within the park, so you shouldn’t have much trouble finding a space to relieve yourself should you need to.

Pavilions / Picnic Spots / Rest Areas / Viewing Platforms

Within the park, you’ll find a number of spots where you can stop to rest and enjoy some snacks or drinks with your family, friends and fellow hikers. These spaces offer covered protection from the elements in case of rain, so if you need a space to rest, you’ll find these spots conveniently marked on the map. Similarly, along the Self-Guided Trail, you’ll find three different viewing platforms where you can enjoy some scenic views of Taoyuan and New Taipei City. These platforms aren’t covered, but they do allow hikers to sit and enjoy snacks at their leisure.

Tourist Visitor Center (遊客中心)

Located at the base of the hiking trailheads, the Tourist Visitor Center is an excellent place for groups to meet up prior to or after finishing a hike. The building features a small cafeteria where you can purchase some food, snacks or drinks. It is also home to a pretty nice restroom area where visitors can relieve themselves before or after a hike.

There’s also a free filtered water machine where you can fill up a water bottle with hot, warm or cold water for free.

The Visitor Center also comes equipped with some educational exhibition spaces with informative displays about some of the fossils found within the park as well as a description of the vegetation and animals that make their home within the park.

Dongyanshan Restaurant (東眼山食堂)

The recently opened Dongyanshan Restaurant is located within a beautifully designed building a short distance from the Visitor Center. Taking into consideration the location of the park, it shouldn’t really surprise anyone that the menu is quite limited. Offering set menus (with vegetarian options), fried snacks and various beverages, it’s certainly not a Michelin-quality restaurant, but if you’re hungry and in need of something to eat, it’s a pretty good option.

However, it’s important to keep in mind that the ‘Set Menu’ dishes are only available from 11:00am - 1:30pm while the ‘Afternoon Tea’ fried dishes are available from 2:00 until the restaurant closes.

Reforestation Memorial Stone (造林紀念石)

Located at the end of the Forestry Trail, you’ll find a memorial stone that commemorates the reforestation effort that helped to bring the forest back to life, giving us the beautiful park that we’re able to enjoy today. The memorial isn’t really that much to look at, and it essentially just marks the end of the trail, but it’s an important reminder that this are was once completely clear cut.

Dongyanshan Hiking Trails (東眼山健行步道)

Within Dongyanshan Forestry Park there are essentially three major trails, with a number of off-shoots that connect with other trails, and extend beyond to much longer and more challenging hikes. With a combined length of around sixteen kilometers, you’ll have to choose carefully which trail to hike on your visit, because you probably couldn’t finish them all in a single trip. Most visitors are likely to choose between the ‘Self-Guided Trail’, the ‘Scenic Trail’ or the ‘Forestry Trail’, but for those who are a bit more serious, they might simply be making use of the leisurely trails to extend their hike to ‘Dongman Trail’ (東滿步道) or onto ‘Mount Beichatian’ (北插天山), which aren’t for the faint of heart.

The Self-Guided Trail (自導式步道)

Starting at the Dongyanshan Visitor Center (東眼山遊客中心), the nearly four kilometer-long ‘Self-Guided Trail’ is a bit awkwardly named in that it might mislead some visitors into thinking that the other trails require a tour guide, which isn’t actually the case. This trail is essentially a loop through some of the most stunning natural scenery that Dongyanshan has to offer, and culminates at the highest point of the park, which is essentially the peak (三角點) at 1,212 meters.

View of the Taipei Basin from the peak.

Along the way you’ll get to enjoy ridge-lines with stunning views of Taoyuan and Sanxia, and if the weather is good, you may even catch a view of Taipei 101 in the distance. Keeping things interesting, the trail is home to a number of outdoor exhibits and educational signage that paints a pictures of the area and its history.

Trail length: 3.5 - 4km (1-2 hours) Highest elevation: 1,212 meters

The Scenic Trail (景觀步道)

If you’re looking for the most Instagram-friendly trail, the ‘Scenic Trail’ is probably the one you’re looking for. This short trail doesn’t take very long to hike and along the mostly flat trail you’ll find a number of Instagram popular installations that have been set up by the park staff and local designers to celebrate the history of the park. Along the way, you’ll also get a pretty good introduction to the natural environment that the rest of the park has to offer.

That being said, if you take a trip all the way to the park and only hike this trail, you’re missing out. If you’re traveling with young children though, it’s a friendly area that won’t tire them out too much.

Trail length: 350 meters (10-20 minutes)

The Forestry Trail (森林知性步道)

Looking at the official park map, the ‘Forestry Trail’ is more or less a trail that combines a number of smaller trails. Hiking this one allows you to experience the natural beauty of the park, while also allowing you to experience the re-forestation efforts that have taken place to help the natural environment come back to life in the areas where the logging industry did the most damage. Passing by the ‘Scenic Trail’ mentioned above, you’ll make your way through the forest covered Father-Son Peaks Trail (親子峰步道), which then loops around and connects with the Forestry Trail (森林知性步道), where you’ll make your way back to the Visitor Center at the end of your hike.

This hike is a much different one than the Self-Guided Trail above in that it doesn’t culminate in a ‘peak’ nor does it offer you scenic views of Taoyuan and New Taipei. The trail essentially just winds its way through a reforested section of the park where the tall Japanese cedar trees and the natural environment that has grown up around them make for some pretty beautiful photos.

Personally this trail was my favorite part of the park as it reminded me of some of the mountainous trails back home in Canada that I would cross-country ski through during my youth.

Trail length: 3km + 1.3km (2 - 2.5 hours) Highest elevation: 1,060 meters

The Dongman Trail (東滿步道)

The longest trail in the park is an interesting one because it is essentially a one-way hike that’ll take the entire day and connects you from one Forest Recreation Park to another. The name “Dongman” (東滿) is a combination of the first characters in “Dongyanshan” (東眼山) and “Manyueyuan” (滿月圓), which is another Forest Park located in Sanxia (三峽). Hikers are free to choose to start the roughly eight kilometer hike in the Forest Park of their choice, depending on personal preference, with one starting at a lower elevation and the other starting at a higher elevation.

The trail is known for its panoramic views of the northern mountain range, but is considered an advanced hike, and should always be done in a group for safety. The other thing that you’ll want to keep in mind is that since the hike starts in one park and ends in another, your method of getting there and getting home will be different, so it doesn’t make much sense to drive your car to one, do the hike, and end up stranded in the other.

Fortunately, there are hiking groups like Parkbus that coordinate hikes to the trail and conveniently provide drop off at one park and pick up at the other, solving those logistical problems.

Trail length: 8km (4-5 hours one way) Highest elevation: 1,130 meters

Park Admission Fees

It is somewhat uncommon for popular tourist destinations to charge an admission fee in Taiwan, but in this case for the purpose of maintaining the quality of the trails, the administration of the park, and most importantly the reforestation effort, a modest admission fee is collected at the entrance.

The current admission fee scheme is as follows:

Weekdays: Adults NT$80

Weekends & National Holidays: Adults NT$100

Group Rate (20 or more people): NT$80

Children: NT$10 (3-6 years), NT$50 (7-12 years)

Seniors (65+): NT$10

Parking Fee: Cars NT$100, Scooters NT$20

Getting There

 

Address: No.30, Jiazhi, Fuxing Dist., Taoyuan City (桃園市復興區霞雲村佳志35號)

GPS: 121.41761, 24.825110

Car / Scooter

If you have your own means of transportation, getting to Dongyanshan Forest Park is relatively straight forward. Located along the Northern Cross-Island Highway (北部橫貫公路), otherwise known as Highway 7 (台7線), you can make your way to the road from Taoyuan, passing through Daxi (大溪) and Cihu (慈湖) or from New Taipei City’s Sanxia District (三峽區). Even though the Cross-Island Highway is considered a ‘highway’ it’s not an expressway, so scooters and motorcycles are permitted to ride up and down the mountainous road.

Input the address or the coordinates provided above into your GPS or Google Maps and you’ll have the best route conveniently mapped out for you.

It’s important to note though that if you’re driving a car or a scooter (or a Gogoro), the last gas station (and battery swapping station) is located on the turn off to Jiaobanshan Villa (角板山公園), so you may want to fill up before you head to the park. It’s also your last chance to pick up some hiking snacks as there is a convenience store next to the gas station.

Public Transportation

Currently, the only option for taking public transportation to Dongyanshan Forest Recreation Park is to take a bus from the Daxi Bus Station (桃園客運大溪總站). Service is provided by the Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Service (台灣好行) on Route #506, but travelers need to keep in mind that during the week there are only three shuttle services a day and five on weekends and holidays.

It is important that you plan your trip wisely and make sure that you don’t miss the bus, otherwise you might find yourself stranded and waiting around for quite some time.

Weekday departures from Daxi: 8:00, 11:00, 15:00

Weekend departures from Daxi: 8:00, 9:00, 11:00, 14:30, 15:00

Weekday departures from Dongyanshan: 9:30, 13:00, 17:00

Weekday departures from Dongyanshan: 9:30, 12:00, 13:00, 16:30, 17:00

Link: Taiwan Tourist Shuttle Service #506 Dongyanshan Route Timetable (台灣好行)

The fare for the bus is NT$81 each way, or you can purchase a one day pass for NT$150 that’ll cover your trip there and your return trip for a discounted price.

Finally, if you’ve taken the effort to visit Dongyanshan, you’re in luck, because there are a number of other tourist destinations in the area that are also worthy of your time - You’ll find the Jiaobanshan Park (角板山公園), Xiao Wulai Waterfall (小烏來瀑布), Xinxikou Suspension Bridge (新溪口吊橋), Yixing Suspension Bridge (義興吊橋), Daxi Old Tea Factory (大溪老茶廠), Sanmin Bat Cave (三民蝙蝠洞), TUBA Church (基國派老教堂), Cihu Mausoleum (慈湖陵寢), Daxi Old Street (大溪老街), and Sanxia Old Street (三峽老街) all in close proximity to the park.

It doesn’t really matter if you’re visiting to check out some of the trails, or you’re one of those adventurous types making your way along the Dongman Trail. The great thing about a visit to Dongyanshan is that you’re provided access to some of Taiwan’s alpine natural beauty within a short distance from Taipei.

Each of the trails within the park offers stunning views, which are comparable to what some of us from North America are used to, but with the mixture of tropical vegetation at the same time. With beautiful cedar trees, thick vegetation and a variety of indigenous species like Formosan Rock Macaques and a wide variety of birds, the park has something for people of all ages and hiking abilities.

References

  1. 東眼山國家森林遊樂區 (台灣山林悠遊網)

  2. 東眼山國家森林遊樂區 (Wiki)

  3. 東眼山自導式步道 (健行筆記)

  4. 東眼山森林遊樂區 (桃園觀光導覽網)

  5. 國家森林遊樂區 (Wiki)

  6. 東眼山國家森林遊樂區.東滿步道 (Tony的自然人文旅記)

  7. 東眼山步道攻略|攻頂小百岳,享受舒服的森林浴 (不一樣的旅人)

  8. 健行一日遊 走讀桃園東眼山,淺山卻有高山的感覺 (微笑台灣)

  9. Dongyanshan Forest Recreation Area (Forestry Bureau)

  10. Dongyanshan Forest Recreation Area (Wiki)

  11. Dongyanshan National Forest Recreation Area (ParkBus)

  12. Dongyanshan (Taiwan Outdoors)


Battleship Rock (秀巒軍艦岩)

Over the years I’ve published quite a few articles about the mountains and hiking trails that encircle Taipei City - Starting with popular hikes like Elephant Mountain (象山) and the rest of the so-called Four Beasts (四獸山), I’ve also covered trails such as Fuzhou Mountain (福州山), Qixing Mountain (七星山), Jiantan Mountain (劍潭山), Jinmian Mountain (金面山) and Guanyin Mountain (觀音山). I’ve even published a guide that provides a comprehensive list of the best mountains and vistas in the city where you can take awesome photos of the city in my Taipei Cityscapes Guide.

With so many articles dedicated to the mountains that surround the capital of this great nation, some readers have asked why I’ve yet to publish anything about the popular ‘Battleship Rock’ (軍艦岩) hike in the city’s Beitou District (北投區) - Well, I’m here today to finally answer that question.

However, you may find yourself a little disappointed.

The ‘Battleship Rock’ I’m going to introduce today isn’t the popular hike in Taipei, but another tourist destination that shares the same name deep in the mountains of Hsinchu. Suffice to say, you won’t be getting instructions on how to hike the popular Taipei mountain this time round, but hey, you get to learn about and (possibly) enjoy photos of an entirely different ‘Battleship’ that rarely gets much attention.

The Battleship Rock I’m introducing this time is a lesser known, yet beautiful tourist stop high up the mountains of Hsinchu County’s Jianshih Village (尖石鄉). Instead of a beautiful cityscape, this location features a couple of beautiful suspension bridges, the confluence of two large rivers, wild hot springs, maple trees and a much larger ‘battleship' than the one in Taipei. However, while all of that might sound great, the biggest difference between this ‘Battleship’ and the one in Taipei is accessibility.

The hike in Taipei is one that is easily reachable via the city’s excellent public transportation network while this one is likely out of reach for most tourists. Nevertheless, even though Hsinchu’s Battleship Rock is more difficult to reach, if you are lucky enough to visit, likely on your way to Qalang Smangus (司馬庫斯部落), Cinsbu (鎮西堡) or the Syaroko Historic Trail (霞喀羅古道), you’re in for a treat.

As a travel-related article, I won’t be overloading you with information this time - I’m just going to spend some time introducing some of the cool things that you’ll see if you ever have a chance to visit the area. And hopefully the photos I share today might entice you to want to take some time to visit the area for a weekend, especially if Smangus is your final destination!

For those of you who landed here hoping to read about Taipei’s Battleship Rock, I hope I didn’t mislead you. I’ll eventually publish something about that hike - It’s on my list of places to write about, I just haven’t gotten to it yet, and these days I prefer to write about destinations that are off of the typical tourist’s radar.

Btunux Tukang (秀巒軍艦岩)

To introduce Hsinchu’s Battleship Rock, most writers would probably start with some scientific information about the geologic process that took place to form this beautiful rock. However, I feel like it’s a better idea to start out with an explanation of its name and the people who have lived in its midst for hundreds (if not thousands) of years.

Translated literally from Chinese as ‘Battleship Rock’ (軍艦岩 / jūn jiàn yán), it is known as ‘Btunux Tukang’ in the Tayal Indigenous language (泰雅語). Located a short distance from the rock, you’ll find the ‘Hbun-Tunan’ (控溪部落) tribe of Taiwan’s Tayal Indigenous People (泰雅族), whose ancestors settled along the river around four hundred years ago.

In the Chinese language, the tribe’s name is literally translated into English as the ‘River Control Tribe’ (控溪部落), a name which was given to them by the Japanese, and is something that might lead one to believe that they somehow nefariously controlled access to the mountains and river. However, in the Tayal language, ‘Hbun-Tunan’ instead refers to the geographic location where the two rivers intersected, and the traditional marketplace of goods that the tribe became known for.

Making their home in the river valley close to where Battleship Rock is located was geographically significant as the tribe played an important role within greater Tayal society for quite some time as the tribe was strategically located along the historic hunting trails used by the Indigenous people to traverse the mountains.

Crossing the river in front of Battleship Rock.

Acting as somewhat of a middle-man between the various tribes on either side of the river, the Hbun-Tunan, who are more commonly known these days as the Xiuluan Tribe (秀巒部落), created a marketplace that allowed the various tribes in the mountains to transport fruit, vegetables, meat and other commodities for trade.

That being said, the river valley was not only a strategic place to live, it was also filled with abundance as the river and the mountains provided the tribe with more than enough sustenance to get by on, and today that marketplace continues to thrive as Xiuluan Village (秀巒村) is the largest producer of peaches and pears in Taiwan.

Living in the midst of the giant rock, at some point, the Hbun-Tunan started referring to it as ‘Btunux Tukang’, which is likely pretty difficult for most native English speakers to even try pronouncing. Nevertheless, as the story goes, it was likely a name that was influenced by missionaries living in the area, because to the indigenous people, it was simply just a big rock. Thus, in Tayal, ‘Btunux’ is the equivalent of ‘rock’ (石頭) and ‘Tukang’ would have been a relatively new word to them that translated as ‘warship’ (軍艦).

Sadly, I spent quite a while trying to figure out the meaning of the name, consulting several Tayal scholars, who also thought it was funny.

The point where the confluence of rivers takes place.

Situated at the confluence where the Baishi / Sakyaking River (白石溪 / 薩克亞金溪) and Taigang / Takejin River (泰崗溪 / 塔克金溪) meet to form the Yufeng / Maliguang River (玉峰溪 / 馬里光溪), Battleship rock is said to resemble the bow of a giant warship. However, when it comes to (almost all of) Taiwan’s popular rock formation tourist destinations, my imagination tends not to be as wild as others. In this case though, I suppose you could argue that the sharp triangular shape of the rock cutting into the river actually does create the effect of a boat speeding its way through the water.

Admittedly, I’m not as knowledgeable about Taiwan’s river systems as others, but I was surprised to learn that two rivers that can see joining together here, eventually join with the greater Dahan / Takoham River (大漢溪 / 大嵙崁溪), which flows into Taoyuan, and is part of the river system controlled by the Shimen Reservoir (石門水庫).

Writing previously about the Youling Waterfalls (幽靈瀑布), Xiao Wulai Waterfall / Rahu-Ulay (小烏來瀑布) and other points of interest along the river, I was actually unaware that they were all part of the same tributary.

Note: For each of the location names above, I’ve included the name more commonly used on maps today as well as their original Tayal names for a bit of clarity.

Layers on the battleship.

Looking at Battleship Rock from a distance, you’re likely to notice the various layers in the rock, telling the story of its long history. Dating back to the collision of tectonic plates that allowed the land mass we known as Taiwan to emerge from the Pacific Ocean, the stripes in the rock are primarily comprised of silt, shale and white sandstone, each of which consists of a different shade.

Unfortunately, there is very little written about the area, and very few resources about provide any concrete estimation of how tall the rock is, but I’d estimate its anywhere between twenty to thirty meters tall.

Fortunately, for anyone visiting today, the local government constructed a sixty meter long Battleship Rock Suspension Bridge (軍艦岩吊橋) in 2015 (民國104年), just over where the two rivers meet up.

The suspension bridge not only allows visitors to get a view of the rock from vantage points above the river, but also provides with the opportunity to cross to the other side to make your way down to the river bank where there are even closer views.

Likewise, just above the Baishi River, you’ll find the Kongxi Suspension Bridge (控溪吊橋), which was originally constructed during the Japanese-era, and then later rebuilt in 1985 (民國74年). In this case, the bridge allow visitors to enjoy the maple trees that grow on this side of the mountain during the late fall and winter months in addition to allowing visitors to make their way to the Taigang Wild Hotsprings (泰崗野溪溫泉) where you can dip your feet in the water.

Maples on the mountain across the river.

That being said, it’s important to remind readers that (as I mentioned earlier) the Hbun-Tunan tribe sat at the crossroads of the so-called ‘ancient’ network of Tayal trails that allowed the various tribes to connect with each other - so when the Japanese arrived in Taiwan in 1895, these routes were thought to pose a risk to their control. The early years of the colonial era saw a heavy handed approach to suppressing any opposition to Japanese rule, and given the tribe’s strategic geographic location, the military converted the ancient trails into police patrol roads which were equipped with artillery batteries and police stations in remote mountain areas.

While attempting to control the movements of the Indigenous people, a number of violent massacres took place leaving a legacy of violence that pushed the indigenous people further into the mountains and completely changed their traditional way of life.

Today, if you cross the Kongxi Suspension Bridge and continue hiking several kilometers up the mountain, you can find the ruins of some of those historic outposts, which were spread throughout the mountains, especially along the Syakoro Historic Trail (霞喀羅古道), where some of them have recently been restored.

Note: During the same visit to the area, I hiked part of the Syakaro Historic Trail, but it was more of a volunteer experience that didn’t allow me to hike the entire trail, so I missed out on the parts of the hike that I was most interested in. Eventually I’ll hike the entire length of the trail and write a blog about it, but until then I recommend you check out Anusha Lee’s article about the trail

Syakaro Historic Trail: A Hike with History, Suspension Bridges and Fall Foliage (Taiwan Hikes)

Crossing over onto maple mountain.

Somewhat ironically, despite the area being referred to as Battleship Rock, the maple trees growing on the mountain on the other side of the Kongxi Suspension Bridge have become the star attraction in recent years. During the months when the trees are changing colors, you’ll find the parking lot full of shuttle vans bringing tourists up and down the mountains.

While the Battleship Rock area isn’t the best spot for maple viewing in Jianshih Village, it’s probably the easiest for most people to get to, making it a popular spot for weekend day-trippers. Coming from Canada, it’s difficult to impress me when it comes to maple trees, but after years of not seeing the leaves change colors back at home in the autumn, it was nice to see Taiwan’s mountains changing colors, especially in this area with the combination of the rivers and the mountains.

With that in mind, the best time to visit the area is in the autumn between October and January, but you’ll want to remember that the maples change colors at different times than they do in North America, so you should consider going a bit later in the year to see them, or simply check the recent photos from the area on Instagram to see if its a good time to visit or not.

Visiting the Battleship Rock area probably won’t require a whole lot of time, but if you plan on hiking the trail to see some of the ruins, or soaking your feet in the wild hot spring, you might want to schedule a bit more time to enjoy yourself. Either way, the parking lot next to the bridge is 100NT per visit for a car, and 30NT for scooters. Everything else is free, unless of course you decide to buy some delicious indigenous snacks from the vendors across the street.

Getting There

 

Address: Xiuluan Village, Jianshih Village, Hsinchu (新竹縣尖石鄉秀巒村)

GPS: 24.633680, 121.279510

As mentioned earlier, the biggest difference between Taipei’s Battleship Rock and Hsinchu’s Battleship Rock is accessibility. The hike in Taipei is pretty easy to get to, but this one is considerably more difficult.

Part of the problem, at least for most international tourists, is that there is no method of public transportation that will take you anywhere near the area. So, if you’re interested in visiting, your only option is to go by car or scooter, or arrange for a shuttle bus to get you there.

That being said, if you’re driving a car or a scooter, I recommend inputting the address or coordinates provided above into a GPS system to map out your route. Depending on where you’re coming from, you’ll want to get off of Highway #3 at the Zhulin Interchange (竹林交流道) and make your way towards Neiwan (內灣) on the #120 County Highway. Passing Neiwan, you’ll continue on towards Jianshih on the #60 rural road pretty much until you arrive.

As one of the stops along the road towards Smangus or the Syaroko Historic Trail, if you’ve planned a trip to either location, Battleship Rock is one of the must-stops along the road. Not only will you get a break from sitting in the shuttle bus, but you’ll also enjoy the opportunity to get a sneak peek of some of the amazing natural beauty that you’re going to experience on your trip. On the other hand, if you’re just enjoying a day-trip through the area, it makes an excellent place to stop, hike a bit and then turn back on your way home. Whatever your itinerary, a visit to Hsinchu’s Battleship Rock is a rewarding experience

References

  1. 秀巒軍艦岩步道 (健行筆記)

  2. 漫步新竹尖石「秀巒軍艦岩」、「軍艦岩吊橋」壯闊美景 (Jamie慢森活)

  3. 新竹景點 尖石鄉/秀巒軍艦岩/軍艦岩吊橋/大自然之旅一日遊/陡峭岩壁超壯觀! | 綠歐樂生活 (綠歐樂生活)

  4. 新竹尖石二日遊 玉峰村部落住一晚,沿途遼闊山巒陵線,凝聽老鷹溪步道溪流 (微笑台灣)

  5. 秀巒 Hbun-Tunan (霞喀羅國家步道)

  6. 控溪部落 Hbun-tunan (Taiwan Indigenous People’s Portal)