Urban Exploration

Sesame Hotel (芝麻大酒店)

Its been said that I'm a bit slow with some of the photos I post. Sometimes it takes months for me actually get around to blogging about something or sharing photos with people. While I’m out shooting different locations though, I always use the Instagram Stories features to share what I'm doing in real time.

The responses I receive from the "stories" I upload on Instagram tend to vary between appreciation for the photos or general appreciation for the way I introduce Taiwan to others.

The responses I receive from locals when I’m out Urban Exploring however are always the same: “Aren’t you afraid of ghosts?!

Suffice to say, if I were afraid of ghosts, its not likely that I’d be visiting most of the places I do, but for locals, the struggle is real when it comes to pests of the supernatural variety.

I’ll admit that some of the places I visit aren’t really for everyone and can at times even freak me out (especially when there are giant spiders) but for the most part exploring abandoned buildings interests me because there is always an interesting history and a reason why these buildings have become abandoned.

One issue that always comes up though is that the national obsession with avoiding ghosts and haunted houses makes it a bit difficult to do research and get any concrete information about some of these historic abandonments.

The subject of today’s blog post is no different - At least 95% of the internet search results come up with it rated as one of the ‘Top Ten Haunted Places' in the nation but they all fail to provide any relevant information about its history.

If I had done any research prior to my visit, I probably would have left feeling a bit disappointed as my expectations for something considered one of the ‘Top Ten Haunted Hotels’ (十大猛鬼酒店) in the country didn’t offer anything remotely spooky.

Luckily I didn’t bother doing much reading before I went and enjoyed my visit as the afternoon light inside the building was shining through all the open windows providing for absolutely beautiful light in the long corridors of the hotel.

The Sesame Hotel (芝麻大酒店)

In the latter half of the twentieth century, Taiwan underwent what is popularly known as the “Taiwan Miracle” (台灣奇蹟) allowing the nation to experience rapid economic growth and making quite a few people filthy rich.

The rapid growth of the economy notably was of benefit most to those loyal to the state, which in that time meant the party. If you happened to be an upstanding member of the Chinese Nationalist Party (中國國民黨) or the military, it was likely that you would have a much smoother experience in your entrepreneurial endeavours.

One such entrepreneur was a former soldier named Chang Ke-Dong (張克東) who after leaving the military in the early 1960s started a career in business by founding the Hua-Mei Construction Corporation (華美聯合建設公司) in 1965.

Chang used his influence as a former member of the military to secure construction contracts allowing his company to quickly gain a large amount of capital and a reputation as one of the most influential of its time allowing him to amass a large fortune.

Chang used his fortune to diversify his holdings and would become not only the owner of a very successful construction company but also two five-star hotels, a department store, movie theatres and several retail outlets among others.

To make a long story short though, due to Chang’s corrupt business dealings and various contract disputes in addition to a slowdown in the global market, his fall from grace was just as quick as his rise.

He fled to the USA in 1982.

Before the demise of Chang’s companies, two of his most important holdings were his prized five-star hotels - The Sesame Hotel in Taipei (台北芝麻大酒店) - also an abandoned building - as well as the Sesame Hotel and Resort (石門芝麻大酒店) in Taoyuan were places where the nation’s elite were known to frequent. 

Taoyuan’s Sesame Hotel, a luxury five-star hotel built on a mountainside near the scenic Shimen Reservoir (石門水庫) was a luxurious all-inclusive resort that opened in 1976 with an investment of more than $400 million NT dollars.

In the years between 1976 and 2008 the hotel was a popular one and became an important destination for both local and foreign dignitaries as well as celebrities. It was also a popular location for government functions with a professional staff that numbered well over a thousand.

The nine-storey pure white hotel featured over 150 suites and a presidential suite. It was designed in a way to make it stand apart from the mountain behind it and the turquoise water from the reservoir below.

On-site facilities included nightclubs, shops, cafes, restaurants, hot spring saunas, a swimming pool, an open-air cinema, solarium, tennis courts, etc.

Guests were also offered horse carriage rides around the reservoir, fishing trips, lakeside barbecues and excursions to nearby tourist areas like Daxi Old Street (大溪老街) and Cihu Mausoleum making the experience an all-inclusive stop for people of all ages.

Even though the design of the hotel was cutting edge for its time, there were a few areas that were considered not very kosher in terms of Feng Shui. The design is said to not only have confused its guests but also later contributed to gaining its ‘haunted’ status.

The top floor of the hotel for some odd reason was named the "first floor", while the ground-level floor was referred to as the "eighth-floor".

No one really knows why, and I couldn’t even assume to have any idea why anyone would make such a decision, but it apparently caused quite a bit of confusion for guests who had a hard time finding their rooms. 

As the economy started to slow down at the turn of the century, business at the hotel declined and even though the quality of the rooms remained the same, the other facilities an the resort started to become neglected in order to save money.

The lack of business and the unsightliness of the area around the resort gave people the idea the hotel was haunted, which is a reputation in Taiwan that is never good for business.

After over thirty years, the Sesame Hotel closed its doors in 2008 - The decline of the tourism industry in the area, the failure of Chang Ke-Dong’s businesses and the hotel’s reputation as a haunted house were all too much to overcome leaving the beautiful building completely bare and abandoned to the elements.

In the decade since the Sesame Hotel closed, it has become a popular place for urban explorers and tour groups who visit at night looking to freak each other out. Even though the building has been almost completely cleared out, it is in pretty good shape and offers urban explorers some pretty good opportunities for photos.

Locals may be consider the hotel to be one of the most haunted buildings in the nation but I’d argue that it is a beginner level exploration and if you are thinking about trying your hand at urbex, this one would be a good place to start.

While this one may be considered one of the "most haunted" buildings in the nation, I’d argue that it is a beginner level exploration and if you are thinking about trying your hand at Urban Exploration, this one would be a good place to start.

Not only is the building a structurally safe one to visit, all of the windows are open and the air inside is fresh meaning that you won't have to put up with the stench that is common in other abandoned buildings here in Taiwan. There is also a distinct lack of anything creepy-crawly in the building, which is an added bonus (giant spiders freak me out). 

As usual, I won’t be telling you the exact location of the hotel, but I’ve left so many clues that you should be able to figure it out on your own!


Buddha's World Abandoned Theme Park (佛陀世界)

When I first came to Taiwan over a decade ago, one of the first things I absolutely had to do was buy a scooter. I often take heat from expats living in Taipei who scoff at the idea of owning a scooter, but at that time having a scooter meant that I could freely explore the completely foreign area I was living in and I could take care of my daily business much more easily. 

Taiwan was a bit different back in those days (it wasn’t actually that long ago) and when it came to having a scooter, it didn’t really matter if I had already obtained my residency permit, a drivers license or even if I wore a helmet. My friends and I were able to walk into a local scooter shop, negotiate a price and a few days later walk away with some finely tuned second-hand scooters for which to explore with! 

A few days after buying my first scooter, I came home to a table full of Taiwan Beer and my new friends patiently waiting for me. They said we were going to take a ride out to check out some 'mountains' and a 'reservoir'. I sounded like a weird plan, but who was I to turn down an adventure that involved free beer? 

Little did I know that after my first ride out to Shimen Reservoir (石門水庫) that I’d be end up living in Taiwan for so long, nor that I’d find myself driving out there countless more times to enjoy the beautiful scenery.

Shimen Reservoir has been attracting tourists since it was completed in the early 1960s. Tourists come not only to enjoy the spectacular scenery created by the dam, but all of the tourist attractions that later sprung up in the area around the dam.

As of late the reservoir has become an area for nature enthusiasts who enjoy the beauty of the artificial lake by taking ferry rides, hike to the peak of Shimen Mountain (石門山) or who come to enjoy cherry, peach and Tung blossoms, azaleas and maple trees.

There was a time though when the area was home to several amusement parks, large resorts and a bunch of other random tourist traps.

Even though 'tourism' has been a constant fixture at the reservoir since its completion, the number of visitors tends to vary by season. In the 1970s and 80s people developed the crap out of the countryside with little thought into the actual business side of things. 

Visitors today are likely to notice a few of the various attractions that have been abandoned over time which is clear evidence of not only the overzealous nature of the way the area was developed but also the unsustainable nature of the tourism industry and the downfall of Taiwan's once booming economy. 

The view of Shimen Dam from Buddha's World.

There are a number of other abandoned attractions and resorts in the area which notably includes the Sesame Hotel (芝麻大酒店), Kunlun Gardens (崑崙養生莊園), the Golden Birds Paradise (金鳥海族樂園) and the Asia Paradise Theme Park (亞洲樂園) among others. 

The subject of today’s post is a semi-abandoned amusement park which was once known as 'Fairy Tale World' (童話世界), but is now known as “Buddha World” (佛陀世界). 

Even though its not an amusement park anymore, Buddha's World has become a popular weekend stop as it has become a spot for urban explorers as well as the so-called Instagram internet beauties (網美) of Taiwan.

Buddha’s World (佛陀世界)

On one of those early trips to Shimen Reservoir, I noticed that there were some weird objects and broken bridges protruding from the mountain on the southern side of the dam. Each time I visited I tried to figure out a way to see what was going on, but eventually came to the conclusion that I’d probably have to use a boat to get there and that wasn't likely to happen. 

The mysterious objects however slowly disappeared over time and it seems like each time I visited the dam there was less of what was once hidden on the mountain.

Then all of the sudden a castle-like structure suddenly went viral on Instagram becoming a weekend hot spot for curious onlookers and the mystery was solved! 

The castle is part of what is now called “Buddha’s World” (佛陀世界), a quiet Buddhist monastery that was constructed on land which was once home to an abandoned theme park.

The theme park, which was originally named Fairy Tale Land (童話世界) was a large knockoff of Disneyland that opened up over forty years ago. The park ultimately ended up being forced out of business by the local government a few decades ago due to environmental issues. 

The land around the reservoir is notorious for having sediment issues and the local authorities couldn't allow construction in the area to cause water degradation to the reservoir which provides water service for millions of people in northern Taiwan. 

The land was later bought by the Rinzai Buddhist sect (臨濟宗) who thought that they would be able to use it not only for a monastery, but a Buddhist themed park for tourists. Unfortunately, the same environmental concerns that forced Fairy Tale Land out of business made it impossible for the sect to construct anything on the land meaning that the planned theme park would never come to fruition. 

Rinzai Buddhist Temples: Puji Temple (Beitou) | Huguo Rinzai Temple (Taipei)

With the idea for an amusement park abandoned, the area became a place of solitude for the monks and nuns who lived there. The original structures that were left over from Fairy Tale Land still existed, but were used merely for storage forcing most of them to fall into disrepair and eventually being torn down.

For most people, the main attraction of Buddha’s World is the Fairy Tale Castle, which is only a short walk from the entrance. The castle is admittedly quite picturesque with the mountains behind it but it is also not long for this world as the building has become hazardous.

If you continue on past the castle, you’ll pass by a fake looking statue of Mickey Mouse and then further on there is a giant statue of what looks like Sun Wu-Kong (孫悟空) of “Journey to the West” (西遊記) fame. The statue is hideous and looks very much like something that you'd expect from 1980s Taiwan. 

Beyond the statue you’ll find a platform that offers beautiful views of the Shimen Reservoir as well as a Buddhist temple where the monks and nuns likely spend a lot of time in quiet contemplation.

The real treat for explorers though is if you continue down the mountain where you’ll find at least four abandoned castle-like buildings that were once used as accommodations for people visiting the park. The largest of those (which is the one closest to the lake-shore) is completely open and you’re able to walk in and explore.

If you want to visit Buddha’s World, there are a few things you have to remember - The area is on private land owned by a Buddhist group. They allow guests to enter free of charge but only on weekends and only between 9:00am - 3:30pm.

While you are visiting, I recommend exploring a bit more of the park than just the castle at the entrance. If you take the time to go, at least check out the viewing platform which is only a five minute walk away from the castle where you are able to take some beautiful photos of the reservoir.

While this one could be considered 'urban exploration', I think most people are just visiting for a shot of the castle, which is a rare sight in Taiwan. I took a bit of extra time and explored the rest of what the park has to offer and I think you should too. But that will take a bit of a hike to get all the way down the hill and you may be a bit disappointed with what you find. 

You'll be able to explore the abandoned hotel at the bottom though and the old waterslide is kind of a cool thing to look at as it has been completely taken over by nature. 

Getting There

I don’t usually reveal locations when it comes to urban exploration sites, but this place is hardly a secret anymore, so there isn’t much point. The route to Buddha’s World is along a mountain road that takes you from Taoyuan into Hsinchu’s Guanxi Village. It is an easy road to navigate and there isn’t a lot of traffic, so if you are on a bicycle, a scooter or are driving a car, you’ll be able to easily find your way.

 

Address: #23 Dazhukeng, Guanxi Village, Hsinchu (新竹縣關西鎮大竹坑23號)

If you are in the area you may also want to consider checking out any of the following spots which are a short distance from Shimen Reservoir: 

Daxi Old Street | Daxi Martial Arts Hall | Longtan Martial Arts Hall | Cihu Mausoleum | Daxi Tea Factory | Sanmin Bat Cave | The TUBA Church | Dong'An Bridge  

And if you're hungry: Laotoubai Hakka Cuisine


The Ruins of Pompeii

The Ruins of Pompeii, an ancient Roman City in Southern Italy has piqued the interest of popular culture and the world’s travellers ever since it was rediscovered in the mid 18th century. 

The story of Pompeii's destruction is one that has been told over and over again through art, literature, film, etc. What happened on that fateful day almost two thousand years ago when Mount Vesuvius erupted may have ended the lives of all of the city's inhabitants but the city lives on today as not only one of the top tourist attractions in Italy but one that is constantly the subject of archaeological study and discovery. 

Pompeii's story is a sad one, but it is one that has given us so much knowledge about the art, customs and everyday life of an advanced society in the ancient world.

History

What happened in the ancient city of Pompeii was a tragedy that erased all life from a prosperous and developed Roman city. In tragedy however there is beauty as the disaster that destroyed an ancient city also preserved it and its culture for the modern world to marvel at.

As far as we can tell right now, it is believed that the city of Pompeii was founded about 2600-2700 years ago. Initially it was an independent city but came under Rome’s sphere of influence sometime in the 4th Century BC.

Before its destruction in 79AD, the city was home to a complex water system that provided water services to all of its inhabitants as well as having a giant amphitheatre, gymnasium, hot springs bath rooms, brothels, elegant houses, paved streets and a port.

Unfortunately, as most of us learned in school, in 79AD, nearby Mount Vesuvius erupted which resulted in the deaths of all of Pompeii’s inhabitants, burying them as well as the city under tons of volcanic ash.

Scientists have since discovered that the eruption released thermal energy more than 100,000 times that of the Hiroshima-Nagasaki Nuclear Bombs.

Even though most people today know about Pompeii’s destruction, it’s important to note that Pompeii was not the only victim of the eruption as several other towns in the area were also destroyed which notably includes the neighbouring city of Herculaneum.

The death toll caused by the eruption is still unknown, but the remains of about 1,500 people have so far been unearthed at both Pompeii and Herculaneum and just as I'm posting this blog the first body to be discovered in more than a decade was found in a bath house. 

Link: Pompeii Archaeologists Unearth Child Skeleton from Ashes of Vesuvius (4/25/18)

After the destruction of the city, all memory of its existence disappeared for well over 1500 years before being rediscovered in 1748 by Spanish engineer Rocque Joaquin de Alcubierre. The ruins of the city of Pompeii and its residents have since been an archaeologists dream job with efforts to unearth the entire city ongoing for well over 250 years.

Thanks to the lack of air and moisture, the artefacts that have been found have helped to provide an extraordinary look into the life of an ancient Roman city.

Today almost three million people live near Mount Vesuvius and even though it has not erupted since 1944, it is still considered one of the most dangerous volcanoes in the world.

Experts agree that the next big eruption could come any day which would once again spell disaster for the people living in the region. 

Travelling Tips

One of the most frustrating aspects of planning my trip to Pompeii was that (unless I planned to take part in an expensive guided tour from Rome) almost all of the information about how to get there was confusing and in most cases every article that I read contradicted the others.

I hope that if you take away anything from this blog post, it would be from my travel experience and the tips I’m about to share.

  • The first tip I’m going to give probably won’t be a popular one with those in the tourist industry in the area, but you seriously don’t need to join a tour group to go to Pompeii. You can hire a tour guide when you arrive if you like, but the insanely priced tour packages out of Rome are just tourist traps and you’d be silly to fall for them.
  • The next tip is that Pompeii is definitely doable as a day trip out of Rome - We took a high speed train from Termini Station to Napoli Centrale Station and from there took a local train from Naples to Pompeii. This may seem like one of the most confusing and contradicting aspects of planning your trip to Pompeii thanks to online literature, but trust me, its simple.
  • There are a number of articles online that use scare tactics to warn travellers about the 'dangers' of walking around Napoli Centrale Station. Let me tell you, as a major transportation hub in Italy, Naples train station is well protected with not only armed security, police and an army presence. Travellers should take normal precaution, but don’t be afraid, you’re more than safe in Naples.
  • You are going to save a lot of money on your trip to Pompeii if you book your train tickets to Naples well in advance. Don’t leave getting a seat on the train to the last minute as you’ll end up paying a considerable amount more if you wait. I used the Rail Europe website to book my tickets which allowed me to search for the cheapest prices on all of Italy’s rail services.
  • One of the most confusing aspects of taking the train to Pompeii is that once you arrive at Napoli Centrale, you have to switch to a local train that will take you down the coast to Pompeii. You cannot pre-order tickets for this leg of your trip, but getting train tickets is simple and hopping on the train to Pompeii is not only a scenic ride down the coast but an interesting in terms of people watching as you get to see a side of the Italian people that you won’t see in Rome.
  • Pompeii is a major tourist attraction, it is very important to buy your entrance tickets in advance. Pre-ordering your tickets means you won’t have to wait in a long line and can enter the park as soon as you arrive. Make sure to either have the advance tickets printed out or available as a PDF that can be scanned on your smart phone. I purchased by tickets online through Musement which allows you to skip-the-line and gives you full access to the site for the day you purchased the tickets. Advance tickets should cost around €13 per person and if you want to add an audio guide, it is €8 per person. There are also discount rates available for children and students. 

Pompeii Forum

  • The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Pompeii is not something you are going to be able to see in an hour or two. You are going to need the better part of a day to really see the place and even then, you’re still going to leave with the feeling that you could have seen more. Remember, Pompeii was once a large city and the archaeological site is opening up more and more of that former city each and every year. Try your best to see and learn as much as possible.
  • When you are at the admissions gate, you need to be absolutely sure to take a map of the area. If you don’t get one you are either going to miss out on some of the most important areas to visit or end up getting lost. Maps are free with admission, so be sure to grab one. The people at the admissions counter are not always that forthcoming with passing them out.
  • If you are leaving from Rome, make sure you have a filling Italian breakfast that includes not only food but an espresso that will give you enough energy for the day. You should also consider purchasing water (Pompeii is a wide open space and it gets very hot) as well as something to snack on while you are in the park as you’re likely to get hungry.
  • Be wary of the weather conditions on the day of your visit. If the forecast is calling for sun, make sure you dress appropriately. Likewise, if its going to rain make sure you have a rain coat and umbrella. There are few places where you can take shelter from the elements in Pompeii, so the weather can be a major factor in whether or not you enjoy your trip. Make sure to also wear comfortable footwear as well - The two thousand year old stone road isn’t easy to walk on. 

Amphitheatre of Pompeii

  • You’ll see warnings online that you are not permitted to take in bags with you when you visit Pompeii. This rule isn’t explained well, but what they mean isn’t a day pack or a camera bag, it means you can’t take your luggage in with you and drag it along the old stone roads. I was originally afraid I was going to have to put my camera bag in a locker, but no one even bothered to look at it - although there may be a security check during high season. 
  • When you’re done checking out Pompeii be sure to check out a little bit of Naples when you take the local train back into town. Naples is a cool city and is the birthplace of pizza, so if you’re there, make sure to at least try some of it. There is a large selection of famous pizzerias offering up traditional Napoli pizza but as I was visiting during the off-season I figured I could be bold and visit one of the most famous - L’Antica Pizzeria da Michele. Let me tell you, once you try the pizza at this quaint little pizzeria, you’ll never look at the dish in the same way again. It’s a taste of heaven and even better, its only a short walk from the train station. 

Getting There

Tourists in Pompeii's Theatre

So the big question is how do you get to Pompeii? Well, if you have loads of money and want to be led around by some guy with a microphone and a flag, then arrange a day-tour from one of the many tour companies in Rome.

If you however are travelling on a budget, it is still quite easy to get yourself to Pompeii to enjoy a great day walking around the old city. As I mentioned above, the information that you find online about getting to Pompeii, especially on travel sites like TripAdvisor, tends to be outdated, contradicting and is full of scare tactics to keep you away.

When I first started planning my day trip to Pompeii, the information I was reading ended up almost scaring me out of visiting. Not only did it seem like getting from Rome to Naples was a pain in the ass, but getting from Naples to Pompeii was extremely dangerous and difficult.

Better leave it to the professionals, right?

Let me dispel a bit of these online rumours - Getting to Pompeii is simple, inexpensive and safe!

As I mentioned above though there is a bit of preparation involved in getting to Pompeii before you even leave home, so I can only imagine people running into difficulties if they leave everything to the last minute.

Step 1:  Pre-order your admission tickets.

This is important as it’ll allow you to skip the lines, which can be quite long in summer.

Step 2: Pre-order your train tickets from Rome to Naples. 

To ensure that you not only get a seat but also one at the cheapest price. Remember, the earlier your book your tickets, the cheaper they are going to be. If you use the Euro Rail website, you’ll be able to compare prices between the various high speed rail carriers. I used Trenitalia on my way to Naples and Italotreno on my way back to Rome and found both High Speed Train carriers to offer extremely comfortable seating at comparable prices.

Step 3: Transfer to Circumvesuviana Train 

Now, I guess this is what is considered the “difficult” part of the whole trip - When you arrive at Napoli Centrale, what do you do next? Online literature makes it out to be extremely difficult and dangerous. It’s not - You walk into the interior of Napoli Centrale station, exit the turnstiles and turn right looking for a set of escalators that take you downstairs to Napoli Garibaldi Station.

Part of the confusion for people is that Naples Central Station is major transport hub for not only the national High Speed Rail Network, but also the Terminal Station for the regional Circumvesuviana Network and the Napoli Metro - All of which are in the same building. Don't get confused by the names. Napoli Centrale and Napoli Garibaldi are part of the same complex!  

Ancient wall art. 

When you take the escalator downstairs you will see signage that points you in the direction of Garibaldi and the Naples Metro. Follow the overhead signs until you get to the turnstiles at Garibaldi. When you arrive there walk up to the ticket booth and request return tickets to Pompeii Scavi.

Step 4: Naples - Sorrento (Southbound) Train

Once you buy the tickets, walk through the turnstiles and walk downstairs to the platform to wait for your train. The train usually comes every fifteen-thirty minutes with the ride to Pompeii-Scavi taking anywhere between forty minutes to an hour.

Timetable for the Naples - Sorrento (Southbound) line! 

You may ask why I’m not recommending readers take a bus from Naples to Pompeii. It’s quite simple actually, not only is the train service fast and cheap, it drops you off at Pompeii-Scavi Station, which is a two minute walk to the entrance of the site.

I can’t think of anything more convenient than taking this train.

Once you’re done in Pompeii, all you have to do is walk out of the park and with your return ticket hop back onto the train to Naples to have some pizza before heading back to Rome or wherever your next destination is! 

Theatre

Don’t let the logistics of planning a day trip to Pompeii frustrate you to the point of not visiting. You will most definitely enjoy a day trip outside of Rome to both Pompeii and Naples. The well-preserved yet ruined ancient Roman city is one of those things that will fascinate tourists of all ages and is highly recommended. Where else can you walk around a two thousand year old abandoned city and end your day in the birthplace of pizza?