Zen Buddhism

Ji-an Yoshino Shrine (吉安慶修院)

Over the past few years I’ve blogged in great detail about various locations leftover from Taiwan’s Japanese Colonial Era introducing buildings, shrines, martial arts halls, etc.

Every time I write one of these articles, I offer a bit of an introduction to the colonial era by explaining to readers that the colonial period lasted from 1895 - 1945, and how for better or worse it was one of the most important eras in Taiwan’s modern history as the Japanese kickstarted the development of Taiwan into the beautiful country that we love today. 

When I talk about these things, I’m often accused of glossing over the terrible things that took place during the half century that the Japanese controlled the islands. And yeah, the Japanese were just like any other colonial power and committed atrocities. The development that took place likewise wasn’t entirely altruistic as it benefitted them and the construction of their fledgling empire, which had its eyes set on massive expansion around South East Asia.

Taiwan was just a stepping stone for fuelling those ambitions.

One facet of the colonial period that I’ve barely touched however is what happened when the war ended and the Japanese surrendered.

I always briefly mention that control of Taiwan and the Penghu Islands were ‘ambiguously’ awarded to the Republic of China, but that doesn’t really tell the full story of the administrative transition that took place, in addition to an exodus of people who left Taiwan with the outgoing colonial regime.

In 2015, a powerful documentary was released in theatres here in Taiwan that did an excellent job telling the forgotten story of what happened when the Japanese left, from the perspective of those who had lived in Taiwan for generations.

The documentary, titled: Wansei Back Home (灣生回家), chronicled the history of some of those (still living) Japanese citizens, who were born in Taiwan, and who had only ever known Taiwan as a home before they were forced to move back to Japan. It told about how they were met with hostility and discrimination when they arrived back in post-war Japan as the country was in the process of rebuilding.

It also delved into how these “Wansei” (灣生), or Japanese citizens who were “Born in Taiwan,” had a difficult time adapting to their new lives while missing the only home that they ever knew.

When the war ended and the Japanese were forced to leave Taiwan, they ended up bringing with them around half a million people.

When the Japanese era started in 1895, an active campaign started in Japan to encourage citizens (with specific skills) to emigrate to the new colony to assist in its development. 

Many of those who came in those early years brought with them everything they owned and a one-way ticket. Then, for several generations they lived, worked and raised families here in Taiwan, forming a deep connection with this land.

One of the first villages set up for these new immigrants to Taiwan was in Hualian’s Ji-an Village (吉安鄉), which then was known as “Yoshino Village”, and just so happens to be the setting in the movie for the return of those “Wansei” citizens, who returned to see their long-lost home.

In this article, I’m going to start off by introducing Yoshino Village and its historical significance before moving on to the main topic of the Yoshino Shrine, which is known today as Qingxiu Temple (慶修院).

Then I’ll conclude with some photos from the site of the former Yoshino Shinto Shrine (吉野神社), located in the heart of the village. 

The Buddhist temple has become a popular tourist attraction in recent years, since its restoration and although there may be a few English-language articles floating around the internet about it, I think it’s more beneficial to the reader to do a bit of a deep-dive into the history of this special village to get a better understanding of its significance.  

Yoshino Village (吉野村)

Street in Yoshino

Street in Yoshino

Originally settled by the Amis Indigenous people, the area we know today as Ji-an (吉安), was once referred to as Cikasuan (知卡宣) or “flowing timber” by the indigenous people who lived there. 

Located within the Huadong Valley (花東地區), Ji-an has a humid subtropical climate and is one of the areas of Hualien best known for its agricultural output, with crops that include rice, sugarcane, corn and tangerines, among others. 

Even though Ji-an has been the home of the Amis people (阿美族) for thousands of years, starting around the 17th century, it has also been an important area where various groups of Hakka (客家) and Hoklo (閩南) migrants have settled. Then, much later a larger group of refugees from the Chinese Civil War came to the area to make a new life in Ji-an. 

Today, these four different groups make up the vast majority of the over eighty-three thousand people who live in Ji-an. Before the arrival of those refugees however, Ji-an was a much different community than it is today, and as I mentioned above, holds a special place in Taiwan’s history. 

The Japanese Empire took control of Taiwan in 1895 and after a period of instability and heavy-handedness, life in Taiwan (for better or worse) eventually settled to become that of the model colony the Japanese were looking for. For the first few years, the only Japanese citizens who came to Taiwan would have been predominately military, civil servants, engineers and business people who sought to capitalize on the treasures that the island had to offer the empire. 

Yoshino tobacco farm

Yoshino tobacco farm

When the situation stabilized, the government made the decision to start a campaign to encourage immigration to the colony, which viewed further immigration to Taiwan by ‘ordinary’ (most often lower-class citizens), especially those who were labourers or farmers was a great way to improve production.

While also testing a ‘settler colonialism’ scheme by mixing Japanese citizens with the local population. 

The East Coast was chosen as the optimal location to start an immigration campaign for these ‘planned communities’ (移民村), due to the fact that it was sparsely populated and thanks to the so-called ‘availability’ of land.

To sweeten the deal, the government would provide each family with transportation, a home and a plot of land to farm on in addition to a number of subsidies.  

The so-called availability of land is a contentious issue as it forced the local Amis people off of their traditional lands and further into the mountains, resulting in a uprising known as the Cikasuan Incident (七腳川事件).

Immigration to the area started modestly in early 1910 (明治43年), with nine families recruited from Tokushima Prefecture (德島縣) on Japan’s Shikoku Island (四國), with another 52 following by the end of the same year. 

Taking into consideration how so many of the immigrants to the area hailed from Yoshinogawa City (吉野川市) in Tokushima, the village was officially renamed Yoshino Village (吉野村) in 1911 (明治44年) to better reflect the heritage of the new residents.

Rice fields in Yoshino

Rice fields in Yoshino

As mentioned above, the Yoshino area was already home to Hoklo, Hakka and Indigenous peoples, so when Yoshino Village became an official village, it was structured into three divisions, namely Miyamae (宮前), Shimizu (清水) and Kusawake (草分), with three tribal areas for the Amis people. Within these three divisions, the Japanese community and the local community were for the most part segregated, but surprisingly a sense of community partnership and shared success brought them all closer than anyone would have ever thought. 

Within a decade of the immigrant community project starting, Yoshino had become a model of success and the hard work of the immigrants and the locals alike transformed the village from a small settlement of sharecropping farms that endured endemic diseases and transformed the ‘wilderness’ into a model of economic success.

Quickly becoming an important centre for food production and economic activity, thanks to its success in the cultivation of rice, sugarcane, tobacco, vegetable and fruit production, the colonial government sought to use the ‘Yoshino model’ in official government propaganda that sought to create similar communities all over Taiwan.

But in order to do so, a considerable amount of public funds had to be invested in the village to ensure that it was equipped with hospitals, schools, civil buildings, shrines and public works projects. 

The “model immigrant community” project, which lasted from 1909 until around 1918 turned out to become a successful venture, but no where was it as successful as it was on the East Coast with Yoshino acting as the model for nearby villages like Toyota (豐田), Hayashida (林田), Yoshita (賀田), Kano (鹿野) and Ikegami (池上), among others. 

Link: Huadong Valley Ride 2018: Hualien City to Fenglin (Spectal Codex)

As the village continued to grow, administration become a major issue, so in 1937 (昭和12年), Yoshino Village was absorbed as a township within the much larger Karenko Prefecture (花蓮縣, which was better able to assert governmental control over its economic development.

If you read the introduction to this article, you’re probably aware of what I’m about to tell you. 

When the Second World War came to an end, the people living in Yoshino and all of the Japanese immigrant communities that dotted the eastern coast of Taiwan were forcibly repatriated back to Japan as the colonial government was making its exit. 

Yoshino Primary School

Yoshino Primary School

The tragedy of this story is that for the several generations of “Wansei” who were born here, and whom had never stepped foot in their ancestral homeland, they were leaving the only home they ever knew for one that was hostile to their existence.

Nevertheless, even though these villages were completely depopulated and abandoned by the Japanese, a housing crisis caused by the arrival of almost two million Chinese refugees a few short years later helped to revive these communities.

When the Chinese Nationalists took over, “Yoshino Village” ceased to exist, but Ji-an (吉安鄉) replaced it, and the farms and industry that were cultivated by the immigrants and local people over the thirty-eight years of its existence were brought back to life and continue to this day.

The few remaining Wansei continue to have fond memories of their homes here in Taiwan. 

And fortunately they have since been able to return to see their homeland as well as the friends they made while here.

Yoshino Shrine (吉野慶修院)

Ok, so it took a while to get here, but finally, the main subject of this article, the Yoshino Shingon Buddhist Temple (真言宗吉野布教所), better known today as Qingxiu Temple (慶修院). 

Often described as “Taiwan’s most well-preserved Buddhist Temple” (臺灣現存最完整的日式寺院), the recently restored shrine has become an extremely popular tourist attraction over the past few years.

I’d expect that Beitou’s Puji Temple (普濟寺) and Taipei’s Huguo Rinzai Temple (臨濟護國禪寺), and a few others around the country might beg to differ, with those bold claims above. 

Constructed as an overseas branch of Koyasan’s Kongobuji Temple (高野山金剛峰寺), the head branch of Japan’s Shingon Buddhism sect (真言宗), the “Yoshino Centre for the Dissemination of Shingon Buddhism” (真言宗吉野布教所) was established in 1917 (大正6年) to work hand-in-hand with the nearby Yoshino Shinto Shrine in serving the religious needs of the community. 

When the temple was first constructed however, it was forced to serve several different functions due to the lack of resources in the village at that time. Not only was it a Buddhist temple, it was also used as a medical facility, a funeral home and a school.

So not only was it helping the immigrants seek inner peace, it was also performing very practical functions as well.  

Fortunately, when the colonial era ended, the Chinese Nationalists uncharacteristically showed mercy and didn’t tear it down like they did the neighboring Shinto Shrine.

In 1948 (民國37年) the Main Hall of the shrine was converted into one that better suited the needs of Chinese Buddhists, with statues of Shakyamuni Buddha (釋迦牟尼佛) and Guanyin (觀音菩薩).

Although we’re fortunate that the temple wasn’t torn down, it did fall into a state of disrepair for quite some time and repairs were made in 1964 and again later in 1972, but were ultimately inadequate for dealing with the structural issues that required attention.

In 1997 (民國86年), the temple was recognized as a county-level historic property (縣定三級古蹟), which gave it a protected status and ensured that money would be allocated for its restoration.

Restoration started shortly after and after a long period of closure, the shrine re-opened to the public in 2003 with the entire grounds meticulously restored to how it would have appeared during the Japanese era. 

Today the Yoshino Shrine is one of the most popular tourist attractions in Hualien and for those Wansei who come back to visit Taiwan, it is surely a sight for sore eyes.

Below, I’ll go into more detail about each of the important parts of the shrine: 

Main Gate (山門)

The Main Gate of the shrine, literally the “Mountain Gate” (山門) is a traditional style gate that meets with the “tamagaki”, or the sacred wall that encircles the perimeter of the complex.

The gate is so beautiful that you’ll probably have to line up to get photos in front of it. 

The gate is arguably one of the most authentic Japanese-style gates in Taiwan and its design is characterized by its simplicity. Above the gate you’ll find a Japanese style eaved roof with a plaque in the middle that reads “Qingxiu Temple” (慶修院).

Hung below that you’ll find a “shimenawa” (標縄), otherwise known as a “sacred rope” decorated with braided paper streamers named “shide” (紙垂). 

Depending on the time of the year that you’ll visit you’ll likely also find two large paper lanterns with the name of the shrine on them. You might also find a purple banner (門幕) hanging in the middle which displays two important icons that identify the temple. 

Main Hall (正殿佛堂)

From top to bottom, the century-old Main Hall of the Yoshino Shrine is quite unique in Taiwan with regard to its architectural design.

The single room building is constructed almost entirely of wood and features a beautiful double-layered roof, held up thanks to the genius of Japanese architectural design.

From the outside, the building is elevated off the ground with a ‘hisashi’ (廂) veranda that reaches around the sides of the building in the shape of a “U”,  and likewise has beautiful windows on the same three sides, allowing for beautiful natural light to enter the building.

The interior of the building is measured by Japanese standards and is three ‘ken’ (間) wide and four ‘ken’ in length (面寬3間、進深4間), which translates to a space of around 39.96 square meters.

As you’d expect with a Buddhist temple like this, the interior is decorated quite simply with tatami mats on the floor and shrines against the back wall. While inside, there really isn’t that much to see, but thats the point of a temple like this, as it is supposed to be a simple space where you’re able to relax and free your mind.

Having a bunch of things to focus on doesn’t really help with that.

The roof of the building is probably one of the most unique aspects of its architectural design as it features the typical Japanese style ‘hip-and-gable’ roof that you’ll find on other Japanese style buildings, but in this case we have a double-layered, four-sided roof. 

In temples constructed in this specific hip-and-gable style known as irimoya-zukuri (入母屋造), the ‘gabled’ part of the roof (the upper layer) covers the ‘moya’ (母屋), or the interior of the building, while the ‘hipped’ part (the lower portion), covers the veranda and protrudes further beyond on each of the four sides.  

While the ‘hisashi’ veranda appears functional, its main purpose is actually to help reinforce the roof with an extra row of pillars, distributing its weight more evenly and also preventing the roof from caving in during an earthquake or a typhoon.  

In most cases, these Japanese-era temples in Taiwan put a lot of emphasis on the design on the front facade of the building, but the sides and the rear rarely ever receive the same amount of attention, which is what makes this one special.

Even though the roof only appears to be double-layered, its all part of the three dimensional design that Japanese architecture has mastered. 

Originally, the main deity in enshrined within the Main Hall was “Acala”, however when the Chinese Nationalists took control of Taiwan, it was replaced with figures more representative of Chinese Buddhism. Now that the shrine has been restored, we can see a shrine set up to the founder of Shingon Buddhism, Kobo Daishi (弘法大師) or Kukai (空海).

Links: Kobo Daishi (Wikipedia) | Kukai Kobo Daishi (Japan Visitor)

You might be wondering why the original shrine to Acala wasn’t put back in place when the shrine was restored. That’s actually an easy answer - Acala is a popular Buddhist figure in Japan, and other parts of Asia, but here in Taiwan is lesser known. 

(I’ll talk about Acala a bit more later)

Kobo Daishi however is someone that most people are aware of, so placing the founder of the sect in the main shrine seems like a pretty good compromise. 

One of the interesting things about this temple are the curtain/banners (御神幕) hanging at the front door. In Taiwan, when you arrive at a shrine, you can typically tell who is inside by the plaque that is placed above the door and the name of the temple.

Japanese places of worship however are quite different and knowing who you’ll find inside can be a little difficult for the uninitiated.

In this case we have two different emblems on the door, which have a very important meaning with regard to this temple, but is something that is generally missed by almost everyone who visits. 

In Japan, these banners are generally always white, unless it is a special occasion when they’re changed to purple. A white curtain here in Taiwan though is something that would scare people away (funeral-related) and would be bad for business. So let’s just say that everyday is a special occasion here in Taiwan and we use purple year-round!

On the left you’ll find the “Kirimon” while on the right you’ll find the “Hidari Gomon”, but what do they mean and why are they there? 

The Koyasan Shingon sect of Buddhism uses the Hidari Gomon (三つ巴) on banners that identify its temples. The Japanese for the symbol translates literally as “Three Commas”, and the design is likened to the mythic three-legged crow Yatagarasu  (八咫烏).

In this case, the “tomoe” (鞆絵/巴) is similar in design to the Chinese “Taijitu” (太極圖), and is used as a visual representation of the Buddhist concept of the “cycle of life.” 

Note: The Hidari Gomon just so happens to also be the same emblem used to symbolize Okinawa (沖繩) and is featured predominately at shrines like the Futenma Shrine (普天滿宮) and Naminoue Shinto Shrine (波上宮), and you would have seen it at Shuri Castle (首里城) before it tragically burnt to the ground. 

The Kirimon (桐紋) is a symbol that the Shingon sect uses to identify Kobo Daishi, the founder of the sect and one of their most prolific figures. Like the emblem above, it also features predominately in Japan as a variation is used to represent the Governmental Seal of Japan (日本內閣總理大臣), known as the “Go-shichi no kiri” or the 5-7 Paulownia (五七桐), while the one used here is the “Go-san no kiri” or the 5-3 Paulownia (五三桐). The only difference between them the variation on the number of petals featured on each of the emblems. 

Acala

To the right of the Main Hall you’ll find a one meter tall stone statue of Acala (不動明王), who is the deity who was previously enshrined at the temple prior to the Chinese Nationalists arrival in Taiwan.

Acala, who is also known as “Fudo Myoo” or the “Immovable Lord” is a wrathful deity who often appears demon-like in his iconography, but is known as the ‘Protector of the Dharma’ and is one of the most important figures in Shingon Buddhism, apart from the founder.

Link: Acala (Wikipedia)

Don’t let the fact that Acala appears somewhat frightening fool you, his purpose is to use his power to help spread wisdom and compassion and only appears that way in order to better combat evil forces!  

Before I move on, I think it’s important to take a minute to talk about the restoration process of the Main Hall, which today is slightly different than it appeared several decades ago, as well as when it was originally constructed.

In the years after the colonial era, the main hall was expanded upon to include rooms to the side, which ultimately changed the shape of the building, and required an alteration to the roof. 

When the building was restored, these additions were removed and the building was (for the most part) restored to its original design. However the back side of the building has been reinforced with modern construction materials in order to secure it from the constant threat of earthquakes that occur so frequently on the East Coast.

The changes to the building aren’t all that noticeable, but have been done in a way that ensures that we’ll be able to enjoy this one for many years to come. 

The Hyakudoishi Stone (百度石)

The one meter tall ‘Hyakudoishi Stone’ stands directly in front of the Main Hall and is part of a Japanese tradition that acts as a location marker for the temple. 

According to tradition, if you’ve visited the temple and prayed for something, you should walk back and forth from the Main Hall and the stone a hundred times in order to show your devotion.

Likewise, if that wish comes true, you should return and complete the same task a thousand times to show your appreciation. 

The Mantra of Light Stone (光明真言百萬遍石碑)

The Mantra of Light Stone is an important part of this shrine and is something that you will generally find at almost every Shingon Buddhist Temple.

The stone is a tool used in Buddhist practice that requires practitioners to chant: “Namu Daishi Henjo Kongo” (南無大師遍照金剛) at least 108 times if they want a wish to come true.

For hardcore practitioners of Shingon, the mantra needs to be chanted at least a million times in their lifetime. 

This specific stone however is thought to have special healing powers and according to local legend, chronic illnesses could be cured by carrying out the ritual mentioned above.

This could very well have originated due to the fact that the shrine was once home to a medical clinic that served the medical needs of the local community.

Nevertheless, the stone has been an important part of the shrine for more than a century, so its continued existence is quite important.  

You’ll probably have noticed from both of these stones that a lot of exercise is required! 

Eighty-Eight Stone Buddha Statues (88尊石佛) 

Located against the southern and western walls of the temple, you’ll find a beautiful display of eighty-eight Buddha statues, which has been wonderfully restored. The number ‘eight’ is a special one in Buddhism and in this case the number “88” in this case represents the various types of Anxiety (煩惱) and Willpower (願力), that are a part of of Kobo Daishi’s teachings.

As mentioned above, this temple is a branch of the Koysan temple back in Japan, but when the immigrants first started arriving in Taiwan, many of them got sick and life was hard.

In order to improve these conditions, some went back to Japan and completed the iconic Shikoku Pilgrimage (四國遍路), which takes more than a month and requires visiting the 88 temples associated with Kobo Daishi on Shikoku Island.

Upon completion of the 1200 kilometer pilgrimage, they brought back with them these 88 statues, each of which from a specific temple, to help the people of Yoshino have a better life. 

Each of the statues features a number, a prayer and the name of the temple where it hails from.

Apart from the Main Hall itself, this is probably the most popular part of the temple and you’ll often find people paying close attention to each of the Buddha’s and the name of the temple they hail from.

You’ll also find quite a few people writing wishes on traditional wooden plaques named ema (絵馬), which are hung nearby and are received by the eighty-eight Buddhas.

Yoshino Shinto Shrine (吉野神社)

When immigrants from Japan started to arrive in Yoshino Village around 1910 (明治43年), most of the basics had already been set up for them, but one of the things that was missing was a Shinto Shrine to take care of their religious needs. 

At that time, not even the Hualien Shinto Shrine (花蓮港神社) had been constructed, so in order to help out, the Governors General Office in the capital purchased a plot of land from the local Makutaay Tribe (瑪谷達璦部落) to construct one. 

Even though Yoshino Village had already been established, the government had to purchase a separate plot of land from the local indigenous people due to the fact that according to Shinto Tradition, larger shrines are generally constructed outside of residential areas in order to maintain the sanctity of the sacred space housed within. 

Link: Architecture and Sacred Spaces in Shinto (UC Berkeley) 

Construction on the Yoshino Shinto Shrine started in January of 1912 (明治45年) and was surprisingly (and extremely efficiently) completed a few months later on May 30th as a branch shrine of the Taiwan Shinto Shrine (台灣神宮 / たいわんじんぐう) in Taipei. 

Note: The Taiwan Shinto Shrine was constructed on the side of Jiantan Mountain where the Yuanshan Grand Hotel (圓山大飯店) is currently located. 

The interesting thing about the Yoshino Shrine is that even though it was never meant to be a Prefectural Level-sized shrine, it was still a large one by the standards of that time and was considered to be one of the ‘three most important shrines on the east coast’ (東台灣三大神社) along with the Hualien Prefectural Shrine and the Taitung Prefectural Shrine (台東神社).

Although information about the overall design of the shrine is limited, from the historic photos it would seem that the shrine consisted of the following: 

  1. A large gate or “torii” (鳥居)

  2. A walking path or “sando” (參道)

  3. Stone Lanterns or “toro” (石燈籠)

  4. An Administration Office or “shamusho” (社務所)

  5. A Purification Fountain or “chozuya” (手水舍)

  6. Stone Guardians or “komainu” (狛犬)

  7. A Hall of Worship or “haiden” (拜殿)

  8. A Main Hall or “honden” (本殿)

Considering the fact that the shrine was a branch of the Taiwan Shinto Shrine, and as was the case with most of Taiwan’s other shrines, the kami enshrined within were all familiar figures which included the Three Deities of Cultivation and Prince Kitashirakawa Yoshihisa.

Unfortunately it’s unclear as to when the Yoshino Shrine was torn down, but when the colonial era ended, the land was used for the construction of military villages, so it is safe to assume that the shrine disappeared in the late 1940s as Hualien was an important location for the Air Force.  

The Military Villages (眷村) constructed on the land where the shrine was located were only ever meant to be temporary lodgings for members of the armed forces, however when it became clear that the ROC wasn’t going to be able to “Retake the Mainland” as they hoped, families eventually started to disperse in order to live a more comfortable life. 

The Military Villages where the shrine was located have since been torn down and part of the land is currently used as a Hakka Cultural Park (吉安好客藝術村).

Even though the park is an arts centre for the local Hakka people, the buildings constructed on site pay homage to the former shrine and attempts have been made to showcase the original landscape design of the former shrine. 

Today all that remains of the original shrine are some memorial stones, ruined lanterns and a reconstruction of the purification fountain.

Still, the area is quite beautiful and the Hakka culture centre is well worth a visit. Likewise, the downtown area of Jian is nice for a walk as you’ll find quite a few houses and buildings left over from the colonial era.

Getting There 

 

Ji-an village is conveniently located just outside of the Hualien city, but with that being said, Hualien is quite large and there is a considerably distance between the city and Ji-an.

Likewise the two shrines aren’t all that close, so getting there could either be quite simple, or a bit tedious depending on your means of transportation.

If you’ve got a car or a scooter, there shouldn’t be much of an issue, especially if you’re travelling from Hualien city, which is a rather straight-forward route.

Simply input one of the addresses (or GPS coordinates) provided below into your GPS or Google Maps and you won’t have any problem. 

Ji-An Qingxiu Temple 

Address: #345-1, Zhongxing Road, Ji’an Township, Hualien County (花蓮縣吉安鄉中興路345-1號) 

GPS: 121.56474, 23.97370

Hours: Tuesday - Sunday, 8:30am - 5:00pm 

Admission: Adult: 30NT, Children/Senior: 15NT, Group: 20NT

Yoshino Shinto Shrine

Address: #477 Zhongshan Road, Sec 3, Ji’an Township, Hualien County (花蓮縣吉安鄉中山路三段477號)

GPS: 121.567120, 23.979840

Hours: Tuesday - Sunday, 9:00am - 4:00pm

Admission: Free of Charge. 

If on the other hand you’re relying on public transportation, getting there becomes a little more tedious, but shouldn’t really pose much of a problem for most travellers.

  • Train

You can take a Local Train (區間車) headed south from Hualien Station and once you’ve arrived at Ji-an Station (吉安車站), from there you can either grab a taxi or simply walk to the shrine, which is about two kilometres away. The route to the shrine isn’t that confusing, so if you walk, you probably won’t get lost. 

  • Bus

From Hualien Train Station you have to option of taking two different buses. Hualien Bus (花蓮客運) #1131 or Taiwan Tourist Shuttle (台灣好行) #303. 

  1. Hualien Bus (花蓮客運) #1131 - From Hualien Station -> Ji’an Township Office (吉安鄉公所)

  2. Taiwan Tourist Shuttle (台灣好行) #303 - From Hualien Station directly to the shrine.

While the second option might seem to be the most convenient, I’d caution that the bus doesn’t come all that often, so if you’re hoping to get on this one, I recommend making sure when the bus leaves from Hualien and heads back, so that you don’t end up missing it. 

The other bus may require a short walk from the Ji-an Township Office, but it is a considerably shorter walk than the walk from the train station, which should save some time as it comes much more frequently and is more reliable.  

To tell the truth, when I started writing this article, I figured I could write a simple introduction to the Yoshino Buddhist Temple and then quickly move on to write about some of the other places I visited during my several-week long trip to the East Coast.

Unfortunately the rabbit hole I fell down while researching this one was so deep that I ended up churning out this long-winded deep dive into the interesting history of Yoshino Village.

For that I apologize. 

Nevertheless, this is a topic that isn’t covered very well in the English language, so I hope that if you’ve read this far, that you’ve been able to learn about this important piece of Taiwanese history, and that it has sparked an interest to keep learning about it like I do. 



Kin-Kannonji (金武觀音寺)

Okinawa is known for its beautiful beaches, amazing food and slow pace of life. This just might be why the local people have one of the longest life expectancies in the world. Nicknamed the “Land of the Immortals”, the islands have the highest rate of centenarians in the world.

Even though diet is probably the largest factor, it is also said that the slower pace of life and carefree attitude of the locals, despite all of the adversity that they’ve faced over the past few centuries has certainly contributed. 

Suffice to say, the past couple of centuries have been rather disastrous for the Ryukyan people. Once a powerful kingdom that made its riches from international trade, Okinawa fell under the subjugation of the Satsuma Clan, the Tokugawa Shogunate, the Meiji Empire only later to become one of the most important focal points of the Second World War.

Despite all of this, the people of Okinawa are resilient and are proud to display their culture and all that they’ve been able to accomplish in the decades since the war ended.

Sadly much of what Okinawa lost over the past few centuries has been difficult to completely restore and many of the places that tourists flock to today, including Shuri Castle, Naminoue Shrine, Futenma Shrine, etc. are all recent reconstructions that have allowed the local people to bring back some semblance of normalcy to their lives. 

Even though the Okinawa of today has been completely rebuilt and redeveloped, the fact remains that finding anything that pre-dates 1945 is extremely rare.

The Kin Kannonji Buddhist temple, located in the central area of the island was one of the few buildings lucky enough to survive the war and even though it is a bit of a distance away from the capital, should be one of those destinations on every tourists itinerary.

The temple is located within the small coastal town of Kin (金武町), which is home to Camp Hansen, one of Okinawa’s largest military bases. The town is a bit of weird one that seems almost completely devoid of life during the day, but apparently comes alive at night in order to cater to the American service men and women who live in the area. 

Known as the birthplace of Okinawan “Taco Rice” and for its production of the local Okinawan rice wine “Awamori”, there’s not much else in the area apart from its beautiful Buddhist Temple, which has been designated as a protected cultural relic.

Still though, a trip to Kin is well worth the short drive out of Naha, if only for checking out this historic place of worship which not only includes a Buddhist temple, but also a Shinto Shrine and a beautiful limestone cave. 

Kin-Kannonji (金武觀音寺)

Starting out with its name, “Kin Kannonji” (きんかんのんじ) literally means the ‘Kin Kannon Temple (金武觀音寺), which simply tells us the location of the temple and who is worshipped inside.

In this case, it is the Buddha of Compassion, known in Japan as “Kannon” (觀音). 

If you’re unaware, the ‘Buddha of Compassion’ is referred to by several different names in the many countries of Asia, but is one of the most commonly worshipped Buddhist figures.

Interestingly, even though most people in Asia regard ‘Kannon’ as a goddess-like figure, in Tibet,  the Buddha of Compassion manifests as the “Dalai Lama” who has traditionally been reincarnated as a male and historically has acted as a god king of sorts.

While Kannon most often appears in a female form in Eastern Asia, it is quite common to find statues that appear to be androgynous, leaving the gender of this all-important Buddhist figure somewhat unimportant.

Link: Guanyin (Wiki)

Kannon

The temple was established in the early 16th Century by a famous Japanese monk Shonin Nisshu (日秀上人) whose arrival in Okinawa is the stuff of legends. The most likely explanation is that he set off from Japan to search for the so-called “Pure Land”, a mountain island paradise, which is thought to be where Kannon lives. Unfortunately while on route he was shipwrecked by a typhoon and washed ashore in the Kin area, saved by the local villagers.

Upon his arrival, legends insist that he used his strength with the dharma to perform some miracles that greatly improved the lives of the local citizens (more on that later) which elevated his status in the community and allowed for him to start his missionary work and the construction of the temple. 

Although the actual date of the temple’s initial construction isn’t documented very well, most agree that its history dates back to 1522, which is relatively the same period as when Nisshu arrived in the area.

I suppose you could say that the exact date of the temple’s construction isn’t really all that important though. The original burnt to the ground in the 1930s and the building we see today was a pre-war re-construction.

When you walk down the visiting path, you are met with some standing statues of Amida Buddha, which are likely going to be wearing the popular floral pattern t-shirts that you’ll see everywhere in Okinawa. Once you’ve made it past them, the path opens up to a large tree-covered courtyard with a garden to your left, the cave entrance to your right and the temple directly in front of you. 

Keeping with tradition, the design of the temple is simplistic in nature and is constructed entirely of wooden columns that support a visually impressive curved roof. When it comes to Japanese temple architecture, there really is a tremendous amount of beauty in its simplicity and this temple is a stunning example of that. 

The foundation is elevated above the ground using stone and wooden planks that help to protect the structure from earthquakes. The interior is constructed entirely of local wood and is a large open space with only a few wooden pillars helping to support the roof. There are also sliding doors on all sides that (when moved) change the dynamic of the room and allow for fresh air and light to enter.

In terms of decoration they keep with tradition and take a very minimalistic approach to the design of the room - At the main door you will be met with an incense urn where you can purchase some incense or some lucky charms (based on the honor system) and say a little prayer.

You can’t actually enter the room on your own, but the doors are quite large, so you can get a pretty good view of the interior from the outside.  

You’ll find another altar sitting between two pillars which that opens up to the main shrine where the resident monks do their daily prayers.

The main shrine is a simple set up consisting of a statue of Kannon (觀音) with wood-carved statues of Amida (阿彌陀佛) and Yakushi (藥師佛) on either side.

In front of the shrine you’ll find two stone lanterns which help provide a bit of light in the room, but not really enough to take nice photos of the statues from a distance. 

The most notable aspect of the temple (design-wise) is the ‘Irimoya-zukuri’-style roof (入母屋造) which is the Asian version of a ‘hip-and-gable’ roof - but a hell of a lot cooler.

In this specific style of roof, there is a main section known as the “moya” (母屋) covering the central core of the building, while the hipped portion known as “hisashi” (廂) extends well beyond the interior portion and the outside veranda. 

The amazing thing about this design is that the size of the roof (in comparison to the lower part of the building) means that its weight has to be supported by a complex system of brackets and supporting blocks which expertly distribute weight and ensures that the building is structurally intact. 

While the design of the roof is quite typical for Japanese temple architecture, what sets this temple apart is the usage of native Okinawan red tiles known as “Aka-Gawara” (沖繩赤瓦), which is quite common for construction throughout the Ryukyu islands, but almost non-existent in Japan. The red tiles, which have faded somewhat over the years blend in quite beautifully with the wood that was used to construct the temple and makes the building shine in the sun. 

Next to the temple you’ll find the administration office where you can go to purchase some good luck charms, seek some spiritual advice or just have a friendly chat. The staff that work at the temple are often quite busy maintaining the grounds, but they are really friendly and appreciate visitors, especially tourists who want to learn about the area. 

While touring the grounds it‘s likely that you’re going to notice that the area is covered by a couple of really large trees. These trees are also considered sacred as they date back to the construction of the original temple and are anywhere between 350 - 400 years old. You’ll notice that the trunks have decorations on them and that the area around the tree is well taken care of. It is also quite common to see local visitors taking family photos in front of the trees.

Nisshu Cave (日秀洞) / Kin Shrine (金武宮)

A 270 meters in length and a depth of about 30 meters, the famous cave that sits directly beside the temple is named, “Nisshu Cave” after the monk who founded the temple. Considered to be hallowed space in Okinawa, the cave is highly regarded not only because it is the home of a small Shinto Shrine, but also because it is partly used as a storage area for locally produced Awamori rice wine (泡盛).

One of the main reasons why the cave is considered sacred to the local people however isn’t because of the shrine or the rice wine stored inside - It is thanks to a local legend that serves as the basis for the creation of the shrine and the temple. 

The legend tends to vary a bit but the more realistic story goes a little like this: In 1552, when Buddhist Monk Nisshu (日秀) was attempting to return to Japan after spending years in China on pilgrimage, he was washed ashore in Kin when a typhoon hit. Rescued by the villager, he wanted to show his appreciation, so he set out to vanquish a disorderly bunch of (extremely venomous) Habu snakes that had infested the cave and were blamed for wreaking havoc on the locals. It would take some time, but when he was finally successful in ridding the area of the snakes, he placed some hand-carved images of the Buddha, Yakushi (彌勒佛) and Kannon (觀音) in front of the cave to act as a protective seal.

The more imaginative version of the story on the other hand tells of a single giant Habu snake, which lived in the cave and would slither into town, drink all the water in the well and on its way back home would have its way with local farm animals. When Nisshu appeared he used his supernatural powers and chanted Buddhist sutras at the entrance of the cave which eventually drove the snake away permanently. 

Whichever story you prefer, the origin of the temple is a direct result of whatever happened at the cave back in the 1500s and the safety that the townspeople could finally enjoy was repaid through their gratitude and the construction of the temple.

The cave has a set of stairs that allow you to descend to the cave floor and explore the interior - The further you go down however the darker and damper it gets, so you’re going to want to watch your step. If you have a light on your cellphone, you might want to turn it on so that you can see where you’re going. Once you’ve made it to the bottom of the staircase, the view looking back at the surface is quite beautiful with all the limestone stalactites hanging from the roof of the cave. 

Once you get to the bottom you’ll notice there is a gated cave door that blocks you from walking any further. This dark cavern leads to the Awamori storage area and (unfortunately) isn’t part of the free tour. 

Since 1949, the Kin Tatsu-no-Kura (龍の蔵) company has stored bottles of their locally produced rice wine in the cave for anywhere between five and twelve years. The company offers three daily tours of their section of the cave, which is filled with thousands of bottles of expensive wine.

The rice wine is as a popular local gift with many people electing to buy a bottle of the wine and having it stored at their own cost for well over a decade for special occasions. If you’d like to visit this section of the cave, you’ll have to pay an entrance fee of ¥400 for one of the tours (11am, 2pm, 3:30pm). 

Link: Tatsu-no-Kura (Okinawa Travel Info) 

The Kin Shinto Shrine (きんぐう) is a quaint little shrine located within the Nisshu Cave next to the temple. Despite the fact that it is not a full fledged shrine like Futenma Shrine or Naminoue Shrine, it is considered to be one of the ‘Eight Shrines of Okinawa’ (沖繩八社) meaning that it is still quite important. Enshrined within the hokora (祠) are the three popular deities worshipped as the “Kumano Sanzan” (熊野神) and are also worshipped at most of Okinawa’s other shrines. 

The history of this little shrine doesn’t seem to have been very well recorded, but what I’ve been able to find is that the legend of the monk Nisshu’s arrival in the area dates back to 1552 and the Buddhist Temple outside was established shortly after. It is also thought that this shrine was the first in Okinawa to worship the Kumano deities, so if that were true, it would have to pre-date the Futenma Shrine, which was constructed shortly after the Kin Buddhist temple under the patronage of the same king.

It is important to note that when the temple was constructed in the 16th Century, the relationship between Buddhism and Shintoism was considered to be symbiotic in nature, so when Nisshu arrived in Okinawa, he brought with him his knowledge of Buddhist philosophy, but he is also credited as the person who started ‘Kumano Sanzan’ worship in the Ryukyus. 

Unfortunately during the Meiji Era (明治), the government made Shintoism the state religion and instituted a policy known as “Shinbutsu Bunri” (神仏分離) which forced the separation of Shinto and Buddhism (which was regarded as a foreign influence). This meant that shared spaces within shrines were no longer permitted. 

This policy however had little effect on this temple and the two continued their symbiotic relationship allowing worshippers to visit to pay their respect to Kannon and the Kumano Sanzan as well.

Unfortunately when most tourists descend into the cave, they tend to pay more attention to their beautiful surroundings and easily pass by the small shrine without paying much attention to it. It might be small, but it is one of Okinawa’s most historically significant shrines, so stopping for a minute to check it out and pay your respects is always a good idea. 

Getting There

 

Address: 222 Kin, Kin Township District, Okinawa (沖縄県金武町金武222)

MAPCODE: 206 140 144

If you’re driving a car to the temple, simply input the Map Code provided above and your GPS will navigate the best route to the temple. The drive is quite simple as you’ll just need to get yourself on the Okinawa Expressway heading north eventually exiting at the Kin IC

From there you’ll follow Route 329 into the downtown area of Kin and will make a left turn when you see signage for the temple. You can park your car in the free parking lot directly opposite the entrance to the temple. 

You’ll want to keep in mind that the expressway in Okinawa requires a toll, so when you get on the highway you’ll have to grab a ticket and you’ll pay when you exit. If you are driving directly from Naha to the Kin Exit, you can expect to pay about ¥600-700 each way. 

Link: Okinawa Expressway Tolls

If you plan on visiting the temple and want to use Okinawa’s public transportation network, getting there is actually quite straight forward. From the Naha Bus Terminal you’ll want to board  Bus #77, which should take about 110 minutes to arrive at the Kin (金武) stop. From there you’ll almost instantly notice a large white road sign that reads: “Kin-Kannonji” which is about a 230 meter walk away from the main road. 

Link: Okinawa Bus Route List

Before heading back, you might want to take some time to walk around the streets and explore the alleys of Kin, which seem to cater exclusively to the US Army stationed at nearby Camp Hansen. The area is full of seedy bars and pubs and during the day most of the town is boarded up with little to no activity which is a bit odd compared to the rest of Okinawa. 

Coincidentally one of the only places in town that is open during the day is Okinawa’s famous “King Tacos” which serves up extremely filling Taco Rice dishes. If you’re hungry and want to get something to eat before heading to your next destination, you may want to consider stopping by and trying out this tasty yet weird Okinawan specialty.  

If you’re heading to Okinawa to spend most of your time on the beach, you’re sure to be delighted as there are over a hundred world class beaches to choose from. If you’re like me however and enjoy taking in a bit of history during your travels, you might end up feeling a bit disappointed.

The sad reality is that there are currently few buildings that pre-date the war, but this little temple was one of the lucky ones that was spared and has been able to withstand the test of time. It is easy to visit Naminoue Shrine or Shuri Castle, but if you want to see something truly historic, you’ll definitely want to make your way out to the small coastal town of Kin to check out its beautiful Buddhist temple


Futenma Temple (普天間山神宮寺)

In the first post in this series I introduced the Futenma Shinto Shrine, one of Okinawa’s most historic and prolific places of worship. In this post I’m going to introduce its next door neighbor, the Futenma Buddhist Temple as well as provide travelers with the information they’ll need to get themselves to both shrines. 

If you haven’t already read about the shrine however, I recommend first checking that out and then coming back here after - I realize that these posts are quite long, but there isn’t much information available in the English-language about them, so I hope that my hours of translation and research about the history of the shrines helps you better understand their long history and what you’ll be seeing when you visit. 

Futenma Buddhist Temple (普天間山神宮寺)

The Futenmanzan Buddhist Temple (ふてんまざん じんぐうじ) is located directly next to the Shinto Shrine and has been an important place of worship for the last five centuries. Unfortunately as I mentioned above, there isn’t a whole lot of English-language information readily available about the temple or its history, so what I’m providing you with today has all been translated from Chinese and Japanese-language resources. 

Like most of the buildings in Okinawa, the original temple, which was constructed around 1459 was completely destroyed during the Battle of Okinawa in 1945.

So what we can see today is a much newer structure that was completed in the late 1990s. 

The short reign of Ryukyuan King Sho Taikyu (尚泰久) between 1454 and 1460 is often referred to by historians as a period where the economy was considered to be quite prosperous. Interestingly though, the royal coffers were almost completely depleted by a devout Buddhist king who (in his short time on the throne) almost bankrupted the royal family constructing far more temples than were actually necessary. 

As the story goes, merchants traveling between the northern and central areas of the main island of Okinawa often stopped in the small village of Ginowan (宜野湾市) before finishing the last leg of their trip to the capital.

This practice became even more common after King Sho Kinpuku (尚金福) paid for and constructed the Futenma Shinto Shrine, which became well-known throughout the kingdom as a place with extraordinary supernatural powers. So, when King Sho Taikyu took the throne, it was only natural for him to construct a Buddhist temple next door. 

Later in 1644, King Sho Ken (尚賢) would make a personal visit to the temple and specified that it be renovated and expanded in order to accommodate the amount of people visiting. The temple would ultimately stay that way for the next several centuries until it unfortunately fell victim to American bombing during the Battle of Okinawa.

It wouldn’t be until the late 1990s that it would be completely rebuilt and reopened to the public.

Today the temple is open year-round and holds several festivals each year including the Summer Matsuri (夏祭り) and the popular Hiwatari Shinji fire-walking ritual (火渡り神事). 

The temple is a “Kannon-ji” (觀音寺) meaning that it is dedicated to the Buddha of Compassion, who in Japan (and many other parts of East Asia) appears as a female. Known in Japan as “Kannon-sama” or “Kanzeon Bosatsu” and in Chinese speaking countries as “Guanyin” (觀音), she is an extremely popular Buddha who is highly regarded for working miracles.

Even though the so-called ‘Buddha of Compassion’ often appears as a slender female, she is often regarded as androgynous and can appear as both a female or a male, but in Japan almost always as a female figure.  

The most widely known example of this in the west would be the Dalai Lama of Tibet, who is regarded by many Buddhists as the reincarnation of the Buddha of Compassion.

The main shrine

One thing you’ll want to note is my usage of “so-called” above when referring to the “Buddha” of Compassion. Kannon is actually a “Bodhisattva” and not a “Buddha”, which simply means that she/he is a person capable of achieving enlightenment, but chooses to delay it in order to stick around to help others end their suffering. 

Unlike the Shinto Shrine next door, (which doesn’t hold association with a network of shrines), this temple is closely associated with the Toji branch (東寺真言宗) of the Esoteric Shingon Buddhist sect (真言宗).

The current abbot of the temple is Mr. Kaneshiro Reikai (金城良啓) who is often on hand to perform a number of daily religious services and study sessions as well as acting as the groundskeeper.

He also keeps an active Twitter account- He’s a busy monk to say the least. 

Link: Kaneshiro Reikei Twitter

Given the fact that the temple abbot keeps such a busy schedule, you’ll find that he is often stuck in his small office and that it would seem like the temple is completely unmanned. This means that you’re able to freely walk inside the main shrine and enjoy its beauty or walk around the well-maintained yard in the front of the temple. 

The temple offers an assortment of Omamori (御守) or lucky charms that visitors can purchase.

This is completely based on the honor system as no one is going to be around to check whether or not you gave the correct amount of cash. I’m not sure that I’d want to be stealing a lucky charm from a Buddhist temple - I can’t imagine the bad karma that’d cause. 

Before entering the temple, you’ll have to walk up a short set of stairs and through a gate - The wooden gate is beautifully designed and the open door looks directly at the main hall.

Just above the door there is a plaque that reads “Futenmanzan” (普天滿山) in Chinese characters. 

Once you pass through the gate, directly to your left you’ll notice a wooden pavilion with a large Bonsho (梵鐘), which is a hanging bronze bell and is significant in Buddhism for festivals and holidays as well as for signaling the passage of time. 

Link: Bonsho (Wiki

By Okinawan standards the temple is quite large and its roof is probably one of the most interesting you’re going to see while traveling around the islands. Constructed in what is known as the “nagare-zukuri” (流造) style (which is best described in English as a streamlined gabled roof), it is an asymmetrical gabled roof with a front section that projects outwards at a steep angle making the building seem to appear much larger than it actually is. 

Link: Nagare-zukuri (Wiki) 

The interior of the main hall is a large open space with very little in terms of decoration - At the front door you’re met with a table full of ‘Omamori’ that is on sale to visitors and once you pass that there isn’t much other than the main shrine, which is absolutely beautiful.

Directly in front of the main shrine there is an altar where you can purchase some sticks of incense with some cushions in front for meditation or prayers. On either side of the main shrine there are two separate shrines, which are used for private religious services and have doors that slide open and shut. 

The main shrine is the main attraction as it is beautifully designed with a golden statue of a standing Kannon with an intricately throne-like decoration surrounding the statue.

Not only does the shrine consist of a throne-like altar for the statue, but hanging from the ceiling are golden shaped bells and flowers that look like they’re descending upon the shrine.

The unfortunate part of the shrine (for most people) is that it is a bit far away from the incense burner, so if you want to take photos, you’d need a pretty good camera to catch all of the finer details.  

Visiting the temple shouldn’t take too much of your time and it should be considered an added bonus to your stop at the Futenma Shrine where you’ll be able to check out the shrine as well as the beautiful cave, so don’t forgot to stop by when you’re in the area.

Getting There

 

Address: 普天間1丁目27−10 Ginowan, Okinawa Prefecture, Japan, 〒901-2202

GPS Coordinates: 26.2928667, 127.7770667

Mapcode: 33 438 615

Phone: 0988-92-3344

Futenma Shrine is located within Ginowan City (宜野灣市), one of Naha’s larger suburbs, about a 40 minute drive outside of the capital and is close to the US Marine Corps Futenma Base.  

If you’ve rented a car for the duration of your stay, getting to the shrine is rather simple and a trip there is likely also going to include a trip to the ruins of Nakagusuku Castle (中城城跡) and the popular American Village shopping area. The shrine provides an ample amount of parking space, which is completely free of charge, so if you visit, you won’t have to spend much time searching for a place to park. 

When you get in the car, simply input the phone number or MAPCODE listed above into your GPS and it will map your route to the shrine. If you’re unsure about how to use the GPS system in your rental car, check the link below as there is a bit of a learning curve. 

Link: Driving in Japan: Where to Find All Your Mapcodes and How to Use Them 

If you are making use of Okinawa’s public transportation services while on your trip, getting to the shrine is going to be a little more difficult. The easiest method would be to take a taxi, but if you do that it is likely that you’re going to have to spend about 6000 yen each way.

A bus on the other hand will only cost about 660 yen. 

From the Naha Bus Terminal, located near the Asahibashi (旭橋站) monorail station, travelers can hop on either bus 21, 25, 27 or 77 to Ginowan. After about 40-60 minutes (depending on traffic) you’ll get off at the Futenma (普天間) bus stop, cross the street and walk toward the shrine, which should take less than five minutes.

If you plan to use the bus or the monorail often during your stay, you may want to consider purchasing a holiday pass which offers unlimited usage for a specific time period. The passes, which can be purchased at the airport are sold in either one day or three day increments and go for 3,000 or 5,500 respectively with discounts for children. 

Link: Okinawa Bus and Monorail Passes

Visiting the shrine and temple is free of charge, but if you want to buy any of the lucky charms or write on an ema, there are some costs. Buying them however is completely up to you.

You should also note that if you approach the main shrine at the Shinto Shrine that its customary to clap your hands twice and say a quiet prayer. You should then throw a small donation into the box.

It’s not a good idea to just walk up to the main entrance of the shrine, peer in through the windows and not say a prayer. Even if you’re not into Shintoism, it is still important to pay respect while traveling.

  • Ema (繪馬匾): 300 yen. 

  • Red Ink Stamp (朱印): 300 yen. 

  • Lucky charm (護身符): 300-500 yen.

  • Amulet (小牌子): 500-1000 yen. 

  • Shrine Stamp Book (朱印簿): 1500 yen.  

Hours: 10am – 8pm Daily (Including Holidays)

Cave hours:  10:00 - 5:00 Daily (Including Holidays) 

I realize that these posts turned out to be quite long, but due to the lack of in-depth information about them, I thought it would be a good idea to try provide a bit more info to prospective visitors.

If you find yourself visiting Okinawa and you’re looking for a cultural experience, there are few better places to visit than the Futenma Shrine. Not only do you get to check out the beautiful shrine, but also the cave and the Buddhist temple next door in a small enclosed area. 

Even though the shrine and temple are located a short distance from the capital, they don’t really attract as many tourists as they should - I highly recommend a visit though, so if you’re visiting Okinawa, you would do well to take some time out of our busy schedule to plan a trip to this area to check it out.

And hey, if you’re hungry, there’s a King Taco’s location across the street where you can sample Okinawa’s famous Taco Rice. It’s actually pretty good.