Ryukyu

Naminoue Shinto Shrine (波上宮)

How much do you know about Okinawa? If you’re like most people, you probably learned in history books that it was the location of one of the most devastating battles of the Second World War. That unfortunately might be the extent of your knowledge about this small, yet extremely beautiful archipelago of islands known as the Ryukyus.

What happened before the war? What happened after the war? 

These are questions that anyone planning a visit should be asking. 

Okinawa’s history is an extremely complex one and if you’re not well-versed, don’t worry, if you visit, you’re going to get a crash course. 

The Okinawa of today has developed into a modern, yet beautiful tropical island with excellent infrastructure and public transportation that provides easy access to all the other outlying islands and amazing beaches.

Its hard to fathom while walking down the clean, well-organized streets that half a century ago, the entirety of the island was reduced to a festering pile of rubble and human misery. 

In the aftermath of the war, Okinawa redeveloped at an amazing pace, but while homes and businesses can be rebuilt, something that the people of Okinawa continue to struggle with today is that they’ve lost so much of their culture, language and identity through all of the chaos.. 

This is something that the people of Okinawa have worked tirelessly at rectifying over the past few decades and now the fruits of their labor are taking shape as there has been a cultural revival of sorts when it comes to the local language, culture and customs, which the local people have become so very proud of.

What this revival also shows quite clearly is that there is a stark contrast between the Ryukyuan people and their Japanese compatriots and that while they might have a shared history, they’re not one in the same.

Link: Battle of Okinawa’s legacy lives on 70 years later as locals chase against Japanese rule, US arms (The Conversation) 

In the aftermath of the war, reconstruction efforts focused primarily on building modern infrastructure and homes for all of the people who were displaced. Suffice to say that many of the buildings of cultural or religious significance that were lost weren’t really high in priority.

This meant that the various Ryukyuan castles like Shuri Castle, Nakagusuku Castle and Zakimi Castle as well as various tombs and places or worship weren’t rebuilt.

The Eight Ryukyuan Shrines (琉球八社) for example, which were (for the most part) places of worship created for the Ryukyuan folk religion (and later converted into Shinto Shrines) were eventually rebuilt, but it would take until the 1990s (or later) Or for most of them to reappear in some shape or form. 

Links: Ryukyu Eight Shrines 琉球八社 (Samurai Archives)  | 琉球八社 (Wiki)

When reconstruction efforts on these shrines finally began, priority was given to the largest and most significant of them, namely, Futenma Shrine (普天滿宮) just outside of the capital. Next came Naminoue Shrine (波上宮), Okinawa’s “ichinomiya” (一宮), the highest-ranking shrine in the prefecture.

Naminoue Shrine, known simply to the locals as ‘Nanminsan’ has a long history dating back to at least the 1300s and today is the most widely-visited place of worship in all of Okinawa.

The shrine is not only one of the most important religious sites in the capital city, but is also a place of worship that is uniquely ‘Okinawan.’ Even though it maintains many of Japan’s traditional design elements, it is unmistakably something that you’re only going to see in Okinawa which makes it stand out from the 80,000 other shrines across the country.  

Naminoue Shrine (波上宮)

Literally, the “Above the Waves Shrine”, Naminoue Shrine, pronounced [Na-mi-new-oh-eh], sits high on its perch above the Naha Harbour. 

The internet is full of claims that the history of the shrine dates back almost a thousand years, but that is actually a bit misleading. There isn’t actually any recorded information or evidence that gives an exact date as to when a shrine was first constructed in this location. 

What we do know about the origins of the shrine are from local legends. The story goes a little like this: A shrine was constructed by a fishermen who one day came across a mysterious stone and, (as one does), began to pray to it, which caused the stone to start glowing. Soon after the fisherman started taking in record hauls which eventually caught the attention of the local gods who stole the rock. From that time on though, an oracle took up residence in the area and people started visiting for spiritual guidance. 

The first documented information about a shrine in the area comes from the “Ryukyu-Koku-Yurai-Ki” (琉球國由來記) or “the Record of Origin of the Kingdom of Ryukyu” which tells of a Buddhist Temple, the “Naminoue-san Gokoku-ji” (波上山護國寺), which was constructed in 1367 and would later burn to the ground in 1633.    

The shrine would then return to its folk-religious roots and as its reputation for spiritual greatness spread throughout the land, it became habit for the sailors coming in and out of Naha harbour to look up and say a prayer for protection on their journey. Lending credence to the claims of Naminsan’s spiritual power, the Ryukyuan Kings also made a yearly ritual of visiting the area to formally pray on behalf of the nation for peace and prosperity.

Note: The local folk religion, known as “Nirai Kanai” (ニライカナイ信仰) or simply as “Ryukyuan Shinto” (琉球神道) is similar in a lot of ways to Japanese Shintoism. The religion honours the relationship between the living and the dead as well as the gods and spirits of the natural world, but is also predominately a medium of ancestral worship. 

Nanminsan was dedicated to the local religion for hundreds of years, but that came to an end when the Japanese annexed the Ryukyuan Islands and formally put an end to the Ryukyuan Kingdom in 1879. From the outset, the Japanese treated the Ryukyuan people as second-class citizens and attempted to erase their culture and language. The local folk religion became one of the colonial powers first targets and Nanminsan being one of the most sacred spaces in the land was replaced by the “Naminoue Shinto Shrine” in 1890. 

The newly established Naminoue Shinto Shrine was classified at the time as the “Okinawa Sochinju” (沖繩總鎮守社), which mean that it was dedicated to the “protection and tranquility” of the entire prefecture. The problem for the Japanese however was that the local people resisted, so they capitulated and enshrined several of the Ryukyuan Kings as gods at the shrine in an attempt to appease the locals.

This in turn also helped the Japanese integrate the royal family into the Japanese Imperial structure. 

In 1923, the shrine was completely rebuilt and all of the traditional Okinawan design elements were replaced by traditional Japanese design. That version of the shrine however only lasted for a few decades though as it was completely destroyed during the Battle of Okinawa in 1945. 

In the years following the war, the shrine was slowly rebuilt with initial construction focusing on the Shamusho (社務所) and Honden (本殿), which were completed in 1953. It would take another four decades to raise enough money to complete the rest of the shrine (which is something I think in retrospect that we can be thankful for) as the Haiden (拜殿) and several other parts of the complex were completed and opened to the public in 1993. 

The reason why I suggest that we’re fortunate is because the completed structure that we see today is a beautiful fusion of Japanese and Okinawan traditional design that might not have been possible if it were completed sooner. The resurgence of the Ryukyuan cultural identity has fueled a need for local places of worship to better represent the local population, so the end result is a unique shrine that pays home age to the beautiful Ryukyuan islands. 

Link: Naminoue Shrine (The Samurai Archives) | Origin of Naminoue Shrine (波上宮) 

Kumano Worship (熊野三山)

Before we get into some of the different design elements of the shrine, I’d like to take a few minutes to explain Kumano Worship, which is something most people might find a bit a confusing about Okinawa’s Shinto Shrines. It is rare that you’ll find an article that touches on the subject, so I’ll try to explain it as best as I can, but it’s important to note that a lack of recorded history makes this stuff a little difficult to explain. 

One of the common features of all of Okinawa’s Shinto Shrines is that they are dedicated to Kumano Worship - which is a Shinto tradition that hails from the mountainous Kumano (熊野) region that spans the prefectures of Wakayama (和歌山縣) and Mie (三重), about 100 kilometres south of Osaka (大阪) on Japan’s main island. 

Kumano Worship might not attract as many followers as some of Japan’s other Shinto sects, but it is thought to predate all of Japan’s modern religions. Centered around the three UNESCO World Heritage Shinto Shrines: Hongu Taisha (本宮大社), Hayatama Taisha (速玉大社) and Nachi Taisha (那智大社) the area is considered to be a place of physical healing and is often mentioned in the mythology surrounding Japan’s founding.  

Today there are more than three-thousand shrines throughout Japan dedicated to Kumano worship, each of which goes through a special propagation process known as “bunrei” (分霊) where the spiritual power of the Kumano deities are shared with a new shrine. Over the past thousand years as Kumano worship spread throughout Japan, followers including Emperors, Samurai and commoners alike have all been attracted to the area to take part in the Kumano Kodo (熊野古道), one of the worlds most important religious pilgrimages.

There are numerous legends that deal with the origin of Kumano Worship, which all deal with the power of nature. Not only is the Kumano area credited with being the mythological birthplace of Japan, it is also known as the “land of the dead” where various kami retire in death - including the gravesite of Izanami (伊邪那美), the deity who created the earth together with her husband Izanagi (伊邪那歧).

Link: Finding the roots of Japan (BBC Travel) 

So how did Kumano Worship become such a big thing in Okinawa? 

That is actually quite a difficult question to answer due to the lack of recorded history. What we do know is that the Ryukyu Kingdom was a major player in the East Asian trade networks and that they learned a lot from foreigners, especially those from China, Japan and Korea. 

The influence these other nations had over the Ryukyus not only involved international trade but the sharing of technology, education, governance, religion, etc. 

What little we know about Kumano’s arrival in the kingdom comes from the Ryūkyū Shintō-ki (琉球神道記), a book authored by a Buddhist monk that documented the Ryukyuan religious experience in the early 1600s. We also know that the Futenma Shinto Shrine (普天滿宮), which was established in the 14th Century was one of the first shrines in the Ryukyus dedicated to Kumano worship, so its likely that Kumano worship spread to Okinawa well before the kingdom was established.  

In the book, monk Taichū Ryōtei (袋中良定) explains that the propagation of Kumano Worship in Okinawa was likely the result of traveling Buddhist monks who visited the islands. At that time, Buddhism and Shintoism were considered to be synchronized with each other, so it shouldn’t be surprising that Japanese monks spreading Buddhism also helped to spread Shinto beliefs as well.  

In one story, Monk Nisshu (日秀), who is credited with the establishment of the Kin Kannon Temple (金武觀音寺), used his supernatural powers to save the local village from a rowdy bunch of venomous snakes and from there stayed in Okinawa to spread Buddhism and Kumano Worship. 

Likewise there are several other stories of monks becoming shipwrecked or traveling specifically to Okinawa on exchange to spread Buddhism. None of these stories however fully explain why Kumano Worship in particular was so heavily promoted - It is safe to assume though that as Kumano was home to one of the more established Shinto sects in Japan as well being home to what many people considered to be the “Pure Land”, it was a major centre for Buddhist training which meant that many of the monks who later became missionaries would have trained in the area. 

Link: 沖縄の熊野信仰霊場を訪ねて (Japanese)

Points of Interest

There are quite a few small details to take note of when you’re visiting this little shrine and each of them serves a very specific and important purpose. Below, I’ll introduce some of the most important points of interest at the shrine that you’ll want to pay attention to, but if you’d like a more detailed introduction to Shinto Shrines, their history and architecture, I recommend checking  the link below to learn more about Japan’s traditional places of worship. 

Link: Shinto Shrine: History, Architecture, and Functions (Patternz) 

Shrine Gate (鳥居)

The gate to the shrine is known in Japan as a "Torii" gate, which simply translated into English as a ‘bird perch’. These gates are typically found at the entrance of a shrine and their purpose is to demarcate the transition from the outside profane realm to that of a sacred one. This means that once you pass through the gate, it is time to stop joking around and to be respectful. 

The Torii at Naminoue Shrine is known as a Myojin Torii (明神鳥居) which is one of the most common styles in Japan and simply means that its upper beam is curved while the lower beam is straight. Between the two beams there is a plaque that reads “Naminoue Shrine” (波上宮) and on either side of the gate you’ll find two large stone lanterns that light up the gate beautifully at night.

The gate is the largest of its kind in Okinawa and not only is it quite tall, its also wide enough to allow a lane for cars to enter on one side with pedestrian traffic on the other.  

Once you reach the top of the hill there is a second Torii gate that you have to pass through before reaching the interior section of the shrine. This gate is situated a level above the parking lot, so it allows people who have driven their cars into the shrine and parked their cars to also walk through a part of the visiting path to the shrine. This stone gate is much smaller than the first one and hung from the lower beam of the gate you’ll notice something known as the “sacred rope” or the “shimenawa” (標縄). The rope is thick and is decorated with “shide” (紙垂), which are beautifully cut paper streamers that are used in Shinto rituals. These sacred ropes are found all over Japan and have many different uses but here at the Shinto shrine it is used to help ward away evil spirits 

Visiting Path (參道)

The “Sando” (參道) or “Visiting Path” is a common feature with Japanese Shinto and Buddhist places of worship and acts as a path that leads to the Hall of Worship. The length of the path varies between shrine with some being quite short while others are several kilometers long.

The path at Naminoue Shrine is a short one that winds up a small hill and consists simply of a set of cement stairs with stone lanterns on the left and a small barrier fence on the right. As I mentioned above, the path is split into two with pedestrian traffic on the right and a road for cars to reach the shrines small parking lot. 

Once you’re at the top of the hill, you’ll pass through another Torii gate and the path to the main hall will come into view with the Purification Fountain on your left and the Administration Office on your right.    

Purification Fountain (手水舍)

An important aspect of Shintoism is something known as the "sacred-profane dichotomy". In terms of this temple, the Torii gate at the entrance of a temple separates the world of the 'sin' from that of the 'sacred'. When you walk through the gate you are leaving the world of the profane which means that you should do so in the cleanest possible manner. So in order to ready yourself for entrance into the sacred realm you would have to do so with a purified body and mind. 

As you approach the Purification Mountain or “chozuya”, you’ll notice a handy guide next to it that indicates the proper method of purifying yourself with a ceremony known as “temizu” (手水). The simple ceremony includes a few gestures that you’ll probably want to take part in if not just as a sign of respect, but because its hot in Okinawa and washing yourself with cold water is quite refreshing. 

  1. Pick up a ladle with your right hand, fill it with water and clean your left hand.

  2. Swap the ladle to your left hand and then wash your right hand.

  3. Swap hands again and pour some water into your left hand and take a drink.

  4. Wash your left hand again and then tilt the ladle vertically so that the remaining water runs down the handle.

What I really like about the Purification Fountain at this shrine is that it is situated within a tree covered area that offers visitors some respite from the sun. The fountain itself is beautifully decorated with the water spouts appearing in the shapes of dragons and the fountain itself made of a dark black coloured stone. 

Administration Office (社務所)

The “Shamusho” (社務所) is opposite the Purification Fountain and reaches as far as the Hall of Worship. The building is traditionally used to conduct the business of running the shrine and also acts as a place to allow the shrine personnel to rest. 

It is also where you’ll go if the shrine is holding a lecture or if the priests are holding special events or prayer ceremonies that aren’t held in the Hall of Worship. You’re likely to notice a long line of visitors at a window at the building as this is where you’re able to purchase good luck charms, amulets, ema, etc. from the shrine.

In the case of this shrine though, I gather that most of these public events are likely held at the Shrine Association building (神宮會館) which is directly across the street from the main gate. While not officially within the shrine area, the association building is frequently used for large public events and weddings and is where you’ll want to go if you want to rent a traditional Japanese yukata to get photos of yourself for your shrine visit.

Stone Guardians (狛犬)

One of the common features that you’ll find in the many of the places of worship throughout East Asia is that the temples and shrines are usually guarded by stone lion-dogs known in Japan as “Komainu” (狛犬). Thought to have originated in Korea, they typically appear in front of a temple and are meant to help ward off evil spirits.

Okinawa being Okinawa though, the traditional stone lion-dogs that guard the shrine have been replaced with the local version, the Shisa (シーサー), or “Shi-Shi” (獅子) in the local Ryukyuan language. The Shisa lions, I guess you could say are a distant cousin of the Komainu and are prevalent throughout the Ryukyuan islands acting as not only the guardians of temples and shrines, but also homes and businesses as well. 

The Shisa first appeared in Okinawa in the 15th Century and in the years since the lion has transformed into an image that symbolises the cultural identity of the people of the Ryukyuan islands and there are many legends in the area that tell of how they arrived.   

Link: Shisa: The Guardian Lions of Okinawa (Kampai) 

Hall of Worship (拜殿)

Shinto Shrines are renowned for their impressive ability to blend in harmoniously with the natural environment around them, which shouldn’t really be all that surprising considering that it is a religion that worships deities related to nature. 

If you weren’t already aware, the Shinto deities, or “kami” are almost always objects found in the natural environment such as animals, birds, rivers, mountains, trees, etc. For outsiders this can be a bit confusing, especially since there are eight million different kami - a number that is synonymous with infinity. 

For the Shinto, the relationship with the natural environment is extremely important given that the earth can bring both blessing and disaster. It is thought that if the kami are worshipped adequately and in a responsible way, then they will bring good fortune to the world. If on the other hand they are disrespected or neglected, they will react violently or bring misfortune. 

Essentially, respect for the environment is one of the main tenets of Shintoism and the construction of these shrines never fails to keep that in mind. With over 80,000 shrines in Japan, Shintoism contributes to society providing ecological sanctuaries that can be enjoyed by all. 

The thing is though, the natural environment in Okinawa is considerably different than what you’ll come across in other parts of the Japan. This means that what you’re going to experience at Naminoue Shrine is going to be a lot different than what you’d see anywhere else in Japan. The shrine of course keeps with tradition and is surrounded by nature, but as it is situated atop a cliff that overlooks a pristine beach, the area around the shrine is covered with palm trees and tropical plants.

The design of the Hall of Worship, or the “Haiden” likewise is unique to Okinawa as it was constructed according to Japanese tradition but designed in a way that pays homage to the Ryukyuan people, especially with with its usage of the colour red and the beautiful red tiled “Aka-Gawara” (沖繩赤瓦) roof that has become synonymous with the architecture found all over Okinawa.

The combination of the three primary colour with the red on the shrine, the green palm trees and the beautiful blue Okinawan sky makes the shrine appealing to the eye and allows it to stand out in the sunlight. 

Link: Ryukyuan Architecture in Zamami: Red Tile Roofs (The Zamami Times)

As you approach the Hall of Worship, the first thing that will stand out to you is the beautiful red roof and pillars mixed with the painted white walls. The closer you get though, the smaller details become much more apparent. 

The first thing you’ll want to take note of are the three plaques placed just below the roof - The middle plaque reads “Naminoue Shrine” (波上宮) while the plaque to its left reads: “Peace reigns over the land” (萬民泰平) and the one on the right reads “National Protector” (國家鎮護). Given Naminoue’s position as the prefectural shrine as well as Okinawa’s unfortunate history, the plaques are quite fitting to the modern Japanese philosophy of non-aggression.

Hung from the lower beam of the gate you’ll notice something known as the “sacred rope” or the “shimenawa” (標縄). The rope is thick and expertly braided and is decorated with “shide” (紙垂), which are beautifully cut paper streamers that are used in Shinto rituals. These sacred ropes are found all over Japan and have many different uses but here at the Shinto shrine it is used to help ward away evil spirits. 

In front of the doors you will find some hanging curtains with a circular logo on each - The crest, known as a “shinmon” (神紋) is the “mitsudomoe” (三ツ巴), which appears to be a comma-like swirl that is commonly associated with Hachimon Shrines (八幡神社) in Japan. 

In Okinawa however the crest was adopted as the emblem of the royal family of the Ryukyuan during the First Sho-Dynasty around seven centuries ago. In Okinawa the crest is known as the “Hidari Gomon” (左御紋) and today you’ll find it not only at Shinto Shrines, but also at Shuri Castle and in most of the imagery that represents the islands. The crest is experiencing something of a resurgence in recent years as it was banned for several decades after the Japanese took control of the Ryukyus. 

Link: 'Hidari Gomon' The Ryukyu Symbol (Budo no Kukyo) 

The crest likewise has deeper connections with Okinawa’s Shinto Shrines as it is thought that the the origin of the design was inspired by the “Yatagarasu” (八咫鳥) or the ‘three-legged crow’, a common image throughout Asia, but is closely associated with Kumano worship. If you visit any of the Kumano Shrines in Japan, you’ll see images of the crow all over the place.

Link: The Legend of Yatagarasu, the three-legged crow and its possible origins (Heritage of Japan)

Most of what you’re going to want to see from the Hall of Worship is on the exterior, but if you’d really like to walk up to the doors to take a peak inside, you’re going to want to follow tradition and first follow a few steps which will impress the locals.

First you’ll want to walk up the steps to the wooden box in front of the main doors. You can drop in a small donation (there’s no set amount), then clap your hands twice to alert the kami of your presence, then with your hands clasped together, bow your head and make a wish. When you’re done, its tradition to bow. From there you can approach the open door and take a peak inside of the shrine room to see whats happening. 

When you look into the interior of the Hall of Worship, you’re going to see a large open room with very little in terms of decoration and tables in the middle where the kami are located.

As I mentioned above, the Shinto Shrines in Okinawa adhere to Kumano Worship, one of the largest denominations (if you will) of the religion. Most of the information you’ll find online does a great job explaining the three UNESCO World Heritage shrines in the area and their history but does a poor job of actually explaining the deities enshrined within. 

Officially, the shrine at Naminoue is dedicated to the ‘Kumano Deities’ but this becomes confusing as you can’t see the actual shrine. From my research, information suggests that the shrine consists of three mirrors which represent ‘Hayatama no kami’, ‘Kotosaka no kami’ and in the middle, the group of ‘Kumano deities’. 

Where this gets confusing is that both of the gods are commonly associated and included within the group of ’Kumano Deities’ that I listed above. In this case, Hayatama no Kami, who is a water god and Kotosaka no kami, a protection deity, are likely given more importance given the importance of the ocean and farming to Okinawa. I’m clearly not an expert on this subject though, so if I’m wrong, please feel free to correct me. 

  • Left -> Hayatama no kami -> 熊野速玉大神 (はやたまのをのみこと)

  • Centre -> Kumano Deities -> 熊野大神 (くまののおおかみ)

  • Right -> Kotosaka no kami -> 事解之男神 (ことさかのをのみこと) 

Naminoue Beach

It is safe to say that If it weren’t for the beach below the shrine, this shrine would never have been built. A sacred space for the local Ryukyuan people for hundreds of years, the high cliff above the beach was the perfect vantage point for people watching ships making port in Naha from all over Asia. 

Today the view of the ocean is blocked by an elevated highway over the beach, which kind of ruins the view, but the bridge does have its advantages as it allows people to take some pretty photos of the shrine sitting beautifully atop the high cliff. 

Most notably for locals however is that Naminoue Beach is the only beach in the capital that is open to the public for recreational activities. The long white sand beach is a popular spot for locals to enjoy the scenery, have a BBQ or a picnic, play volleyball or go for a swim. 

As mentioned above, the view at the beach is obscured by an elevated highway. While this does ruin the view for swimmers, it does provide an excellent opportunity for photos as there is a walking path along the highway where you’ll be able to get some shots of the shrine sitting atop the cliff above the beach.

If this interests you, you’re going to have to walk for about ten minutes to get to the bridge but getting there is fairly straight-forward. From the main gate to the shrine continue walking down Naminoue-dori where you’ll pass by a large driving school. Continue along the sidewalk until you reach the bridge where you’ll make a right turn onto the bridge.

Getting There

Guide Map to Okinawa's Confucius Temples and Naminoue Shrine. www.goteamjosh.com/blog/kumekong www.goteamjosh.com/blog/naminuoe

Naminoue Shrine: #25-11 Wakasa District 1, Naha (沖繩縣那霸市若狹町1丁目25-11)

MAPCODE: 33 185 023

Getting to Naminoue Shrine is quite easy and is even easier if you have access to the internet and Google Maps, given the difficulty of navigating Japanese-style addresses. I’d suggest though that you travel on foot as it will give you the best opportunity to explore as well as saving time and money.

If you’ve rented a car, you’ll definitely be able to find a car park nearby where you can drop off your car and check out the area. The problem with car parks though is that the parking fees are rather expensive and if you plan on checking out the shrine, the beach and the neighbouring Naha Confucius Temple, you’re going to need a bit of time. So, if you’ve got a car, the best thing to do would be to leave it where you’re staying, take the monorail and walk. 

If you choose the latter, you can conveniently take the monorail to either the Prefectural Office Station (縣廳前站) or Miebashi Station (美栄站) and walk from there. I’d personally recommend walking from the Prefectural Office as it is a short walk and doesn’t require making too many turns, making it the easier route to navigate. The routes I’m sharing below might not be the fastest, but they require very little in terms of turning and getting lost in alleys. If you have internet access on your phone, just use your GPS and you’ll arrive in 20 minutes. 

Directions from Prefectural Office Station

From the Monorail Station you’ll exit onto a large road named Onaribashi-dori (御成橋通り) where you’ll walk up the hill in the opposite direction from the Kokusai International Street (國際通). Simply follow that road until you reach the beach where you’ll make a left turn where you’ll quickly find the shrine. 

Directions from Miebashi Station 

From Exit #2 of the Monorail Station make a left turn onto Okiei Street (沖映通り) and then walk straight until you reach the end of the road along the ocean. From there turn left again and follow the coastal path until you reach Naminoue Beach and the Shrine. 

If you’d like to take a bus, the shrine is serviced by Naha City Bus #2, #5, #15 and #45 where you’ll get off at the Nishinjo Stop. To catch any of these buses, simply go to the Prefectural Office Monorail station where you’ll find the bus stops on the road below the station. 

Link: Bus Map Okinawa (Bus Routes / Schedules) 

Tourists..

One of the most noticeable differences you’ll find in Okinawa from the rest of Japan is the absence and concentration of Shinto Shrines - Given the Ryukyu’s unfortunate modern history, it shouldn’t surprise you that there are so few left standing nor should it be surprising that the local people don’t always share a similar love of Japan’s state religion as those on the mainland. The situation with regard to cultural identity in Okinawa is a complicated one and as time passes, it tends to be one that drifts further and further apart from the rest of Japan. 

Nevertheless, the lack of shrines does make the few left standing even more important. So, if you’re planning to visit Okinawa, you can expect that your visit to this shrine to be shared with quite a few locals. 

Nevertheless, the rarity of Shinto Shrines in Okinawa makes the few left standing today important places of worship for those who adhere to the religion as well as for travelers. 

As the highest ranking shrine in Okinawa Prefecture and the largest in the capital city of Naha, Naminoue Shrine has become an important place of worship for locals as well as a major tourist attraction, so if you’re visiting the city, you’ll definitely want to stop by to check it out. 


Kin-Kannonji (金武觀音寺)

Okinawa is known for its beautiful beaches, amazing food and slow pace of life. This just might be why the local people have one of the longest life expectancies in the world. Nicknamed the “Land of the Immortals”, the islands have the highest rate of centenarians in the world.

Even though diet is probably the largest factor, it is also said that the slower pace of life and carefree attitude of the locals, despite all of the adversity that they’ve faced over the past few centuries has certainly contributed. 

Suffice to say, the past couple of centuries have been rather disastrous for the Ryukyan people. Once a powerful kingdom that made its riches from international trade, Okinawa fell under the subjugation of the Satsuma Clan, the Tokugawa Shogunate, the Meiji Empire only later to become one of the most important focal points of the Second World War.

Despite all of this, the people of Okinawa are resilient and are proud to display their culture and all that they’ve been able to accomplish in the decades since the war ended.

Sadly much of what Okinawa lost over the past few centuries has been difficult to completely restore and many of the places that tourists flock to today, including Shuri Castle, Naminoue Shrine, Futenma Shrine, etc. are all recent reconstructions that have allowed the local people to bring back some semblance of normalcy to their lives. 

Even though the Okinawa of today has been completely rebuilt and redeveloped, the fact remains that finding anything that pre-dates 1945 is extremely rare.

The Kin Kannonji Buddhist temple, located in the central area of the island was one of the few buildings lucky enough to survive the war and even though it is a bit of a distance away from the capital, should be one of those destinations on every tourists itinerary.

The temple is located within the small coastal town of Kin (金武町), which is home to Camp Hansen, one of Okinawa’s largest military bases. The town is a bit of weird one that seems almost completely devoid of life during the day, but apparently comes alive at night in order to cater to the American service men and women who live in the area. 

Known as the birthplace of Okinawan “Taco Rice” and for its production of the local Okinawan rice wine “Awamori”, there’s not much else in the area apart from its beautiful Buddhist Temple, which has been designated as a protected cultural relic.

Still though, a trip to Kin is well worth the short drive out of Naha, if only for checking out this historic place of worship which not only includes a Buddhist temple, but also a Shinto Shrine and a beautiful limestone cave. 

Kin-Kannonji (金武觀音寺)

Starting out with its name, “Kin Kannonji” (きんかんのんじ) literally means the ‘Kin Kannon Temple (金武觀音寺), which simply tells us the location of the temple and who is worshipped inside.

In this case, it is the Buddha of Compassion, known in Japan as “Kannon” (觀音). 

If you’re unaware, the ‘Buddha of Compassion’ is referred to by several different names in the many countries of Asia, but is one of the most commonly worshipped Buddhist figures.

Interestingly, even though most people in Asia regard ‘Kannon’ as a goddess-like figure, in Tibet,  the Buddha of Compassion manifests as the “Dalai Lama” who has traditionally been reincarnated as a male and historically has acted as a god king of sorts.

While Kannon most often appears in a female form in Eastern Asia, it is quite common to find statues that appear to be androgynous, leaving the gender of this all-important Buddhist figure somewhat unimportant.

Link: Guanyin (Wiki)

Kannon

The temple was established in the early 16th Century by a famous Japanese monk Shonin Nisshu (日秀上人) whose arrival in Okinawa is the stuff of legends. The most likely explanation is that he set off from Japan to search for the so-called “Pure Land”, a mountain island paradise, which is thought to be where Kannon lives. Unfortunately while on route he was shipwrecked by a typhoon and washed ashore in the Kin area, saved by the local villagers.

Upon his arrival, legends insist that he used his strength with the dharma to perform some miracles that greatly improved the lives of the local citizens (more on that later) which elevated his status in the community and allowed for him to start his missionary work and the construction of the temple. 

Although the actual date of the temple’s initial construction isn’t documented very well, most agree that its history dates back to 1522, which is relatively the same period as when Nisshu arrived in the area.

I suppose you could say that the exact date of the temple’s construction isn’t really all that important though. The original burnt to the ground in the 1930s and the building we see today was a pre-war re-construction.

When you walk down the visiting path, you are met with some standing statues of Amida Buddha, which are likely going to be wearing the popular floral pattern t-shirts that you’ll see everywhere in Okinawa. Once you’ve made it past them, the path opens up to a large tree-covered courtyard with a garden to your left, the cave entrance to your right and the temple directly in front of you. 

Keeping with tradition, the design of the temple is simplistic in nature and is constructed entirely of wooden columns that support a visually impressive curved roof. When it comes to Japanese temple architecture, there really is a tremendous amount of beauty in its simplicity and this temple is a stunning example of that. 

The foundation is elevated above the ground using stone and wooden planks that help to protect the structure from earthquakes. The interior is constructed entirely of local wood and is a large open space with only a few wooden pillars helping to support the roof. There are also sliding doors on all sides that (when moved) change the dynamic of the room and allow for fresh air and light to enter.

In terms of decoration they keep with tradition and take a very minimalistic approach to the design of the room - At the main door you will be met with an incense urn where you can purchase some incense or some lucky charms (based on the honor system) and say a little prayer.

You can’t actually enter the room on your own, but the doors are quite large, so you can get a pretty good view of the interior from the outside.  

You’ll find another altar sitting between two pillars which that opens up to the main shrine where the resident monks do their daily prayers.

The main shrine is a simple set up consisting of a statue of Kannon (觀音) with wood-carved statues of Amida (阿彌陀佛) and Yakushi (藥師佛) on either side.

In front of the shrine you’ll find two stone lanterns which help provide a bit of light in the room, but not really enough to take nice photos of the statues from a distance. 

The most notable aspect of the temple (design-wise) is the ‘Irimoya-zukuri’-style roof (入母屋造) which is the Asian version of a ‘hip-and-gable’ roof - but a hell of a lot cooler.

In this specific style of roof, there is a main section known as the “moya” (母屋) covering the central core of the building, while the hipped portion known as “hisashi” (廂) extends well beyond the interior portion and the outside veranda. 

The amazing thing about this design is that the size of the roof (in comparison to the lower part of the building) means that its weight has to be supported by a complex system of brackets and supporting blocks which expertly distribute weight and ensures that the building is structurally intact. 

While the design of the roof is quite typical for Japanese temple architecture, what sets this temple apart is the usage of native Okinawan red tiles known as “Aka-Gawara” (沖繩赤瓦), which is quite common for construction throughout the Ryukyu islands, but almost non-existent in Japan. The red tiles, which have faded somewhat over the years blend in quite beautifully with the wood that was used to construct the temple and makes the building shine in the sun. 

Next to the temple you’ll find the administration office where you can go to purchase some good luck charms, seek some spiritual advice or just have a friendly chat. The staff that work at the temple are often quite busy maintaining the grounds, but they are really friendly and appreciate visitors, especially tourists who want to learn about the area. 

While touring the grounds it‘s likely that you’re going to notice that the area is covered by a couple of really large trees. These trees are also considered sacred as they date back to the construction of the original temple and are anywhere between 350 - 400 years old. You’ll notice that the trunks have decorations on them and that the area around the tree is well taken care of. It is also quite common to see local visitors taking family photos in front of the trees.

Nisshu Cave (日秀洞) / Kin Shrine (金武宮)

A 270 meters in length and a depth of about 30 meters, the famous cave that sits directly beside the temple is named, “Nisshu Cave” after the monk who founded the temple. Considered to be hallowed space in Okinawa, the cave is highly regarded not only because it is the home of a small Shinto Shrine, but also because it is partly used as a storage area for locally produced Awamori rice wine (泡盛).

One of the main reasons why the cave is considered sacred to the local people however isn’t because of the shrine or the rice wine stored inside - It is thanks to a local legend that serves as the basis for the creation of the shrine and the temple. 

The legend tends to vary a bit but the more realistic story goes a little like this: In 1552, when Buddhist Monk Nisshu (日秀) was attempting to return to Japan after spending years in China on pilgrimage, he was washed ashore in Kin when a typhoon hit. Rescued by the villager, he wanted to show his appreciation, so he set out to vanquish a disorderly bunch of (extremely venomous) Habu snakes that had infested the cave and were blamed for wreaking havoc on the locals. It would take some time, but when he was finally successful in ridding the area of the snakes, he placed some hand-carved images of the Buddha, Yakushi (彌勒佛) and Kannon (觀音) in front of the cave to act as a protective seal.

The more imaginative version of the story on the other hand tells of a single giant Habu snake, which lived in the cave and would slither into town, drink all the water in the well and on its way back home would have its way with local farm animals. When Nisshu appeared he used his supernatural powers and chanted Buddhist sutras at the entrance of the cave which eventually drove the snake away permanently. 

Whichever story you prefer, the origin of the temple is a direct result of whatever happened at the cave back in the 1500s and the safety that the townspeople could finally enjoy was repaid through their gratitude and the construction of the temple.

The cave has a set of stairs that allow you to descend to the cave floor and explore the interior - The further you go down however the darker and damper it gets, so you’re going to want to watch your step. If you have a light on your cellphone, you might want to turn it on so that you can see where you’re going. Once you’ve made it to the bottom of the staircase, the view looking back at the surface is quite beautiful with all the limestone stalactites hanging from the roof of the cave. 

Once you get to the bottom you’ll notice there is a gated cave door that blocks you from walking any further. This dark cavern leads to the Awamori storage area and (unfortunately) isn’t part of the free tour. 

Since 1949, the Kin Tatsu-no-Kura (龍の蔵) company has stored bottles of their locally produced rice wine in the cave for anywhere between five and twelve years. The company offers three daily tours of their section of the cave, which is filled with thousands of bottles of expensive wine.

The rice wine is as a popular local gift with many people electing to buy a bottle of the wine and having it stored at their own cost for well over a decade for special occasions. If you’d like to visit this section of the cave, you’ll have to pay an entrance fee of ¥400 for one of the tours (11am, 2pm, 3:30pm). 

Link: Tatsu-no-Kura (Okinawa Travel Info) 

The Kin Shinto Shrine (きんぐう) is a quaint little shrine located within the Nisshu Cave next to the temple. Despite the fact that it is not a full fledged shrine like Futenma Shrine or Naminoue Shrine, it is considered to be one of the ‘Eight Shrines of Okinawa’ (沖繩八社) meaning that it is still quite important. Enshrined within the hokora (祠) are the three popular deities worshipped as the “Kumano Sanzan” (熊野神) and are also worshipped at most of Okinawa’s other shrines. 

The history of this little shrine doesn’t seem to have been very well recorded, but what I’ve been able to find is that the legend of the monk Nisshu’s arrival in the area dates back to 1552 and the Buddhist Temple outside was established shortly after. It is also thought that this shrine was the first in Okinawa to worship the Kumano deities, so if that were true, it would have to pre-date the Futenma Shrine, which was constructed shortly after the Kin Buddhist temple under the patronage of the same king.

It is important to note that when the temple was constructed in the 16th Century, the relationship between Buddhism and Shintoism was considered to be symbiotic in nature, so when Nisshu arrived in Okinawa, he brought with him his knowledge of Buddhist philosophy, but he is also credited as the person who started ‘Kumano Sanzan’ worship in the Ryukyus. 

Unfortunately during the Meiji Era (明治), the government made Shintoism the state religion and instituted a policy known as “Shinbutsu Bunri” (神仏分離) which forced the separation of Shinto and Buddhism (which was regarded as a foreign influence). This meant that shared spaces within shrines were no longer permitted. 

This policy however had little effect on this temple and the two continued their symbiotic relationship allowing worshippers to visit to pay their respect to Kannon and the Kumano Sanzan as well.

Unfortunately when most tourists descend into the cave, they tend to pay more attention to their beautiful surroundings and easily pass by the small shrine without paying much attention to it. It might be small, but it is one of Okinawa’s most historically significant shrines, so stopping for a minute to check it out and pay your respects is always a good idea. 

Getting There

 

Address: 222 Kin, Kin Township District, Okinawa (沖縄県金武町金武222)

MAPCODE: 206 140 144

If you’re driving a car to the temple, simply input the Map Code provided above and your GPS will navigate the best route to the temple. The drive is quite simple as you’ll just need to get yourself on the Okinawa Expressway heading north eventually exiting at the Kin IC

From there you’ll follow Route 329 into the downtown area of Kin and will make a left turn when you see signage for the temple. You can park your car in the free parking lot directly opposite the entrance to the temple. 

You’ll want to keep in mind that the expressway in Okinawa requires a toll, so when you get on the highway you’ll have to grab a ticket and you’ll pay when you exit. If you are driving directly from Naha to the Kin Exit, you can expect to pay about ¥600-700 each way. 

Link: Okinawa Expressway Tolls

If you plan on visiting the temple and want to use Okinawa’s public transportation network, getting there is actually quite straight forward. From the Naha Bus Terminal you’ll want to board  Bus #77, which should take about 110 minutes to arrive at the Kin (金武) stop. From there you’ll almost instantly notice a large white road sign that reads: “Kin-Kannonji” which is about a 230 meter walk away from the main road. 

Link: Okinawa Bus Route List

Before heading back, you might want to take some time to walk around the streets and explore the alleys of Kin, which seem to cater exclusively to the US Army stationed at nearby Camp Hansen. The area is full of seedy bars and pubs and during the day most of the town is boarded up with little to no activity which is a bit odd compared to the rest of Okinawa. 

Coincidentally one of the only places in town that is open during the day is Okinawa’s famous “King Tacos” which serves up extremely filling Taco Rice dishes. If you’re hungry and want to get something to eat before heading to your next destination, you may want to consider stopping by and trying out this tasty yet weird Okinawan specialty.  

If you’re heading to Okinawa to spend most of your time on the beach, you’re sure to be delighted as there are over a hundred world class beaches to choose from. If you’re like me however and enjoy taking in a bit of history during your travels, you might end up feeling a bit disappointed.

The sad reality is that there are currently few buildings that pre-date the war, but this little temple was one of the lucky ones that was spared and has been able to withstand the test of time. It is easy to visit Naminoue Shrine or Shuri Castle, but if you want to see something truly historic, you’ll definitely want to make your way out to the small coastal town of Kin to check out its beautiful Buddhist temple


Shuri Castle (首里城)

In the early morning of October 31st, 2019, a few days before I had planned to publish this article, a fire broke out at Shuri Castle and it is reported that much of the World Heritage site has been destroyed.

The loss of Shuri Castle is likely to be one of the most heart-wrenching events for the people of Okinawa since the Second World War considering the important role Shuri Castle plays in the cultural identity of the Ryukyuan people.

While this was originally a travel article with information to guide tourists to the castle, it should be fairly obvious that the castle will be closed for quite some time and that while the castle may be rebuilt yet again, it probably won’t be for quite some time.

My thoughts are with the people of Okinawa at this time and I wish them the best of luck.

沖縄、応援しています!

Its fair to say that when most people plan to travel through Europe, it’s likely that they’ll end up visiting quite a few castles. The continent is known for its castles, which are today major tourist destinations rather than fortified palaces.

Over here in Asia? Not so much. When most travelers visit Asia, its likely that they’re going to visit the Forbidden City in China, the Grand Palace in Thailand, Angkor Wat in Cambodia or Gyeongbokgung Palace in Korea. 

The popularity of castle construction never really spread to Asia in the way it did all across Europe, except for in Japan and Okinawa where you can still find historic castles dating back to the time when samurais, shoguns and emperors ruled the land.

So, it shouldn’t be too surprising that a trip to Japan these days shares some similarities to a European trip as you’ll probably be including a few castles on your itinerary. 

When it comes to castles though, Okinawa is where you’re going to find the highest concentration of them - The small archipelago, which has only been a part of Japan for the last century or so, was once home to more than two hundred castles, pre-dating their mainland counterparts by more than a century.

Unfortunately only a few of Okinawa’s “gusuku” (グスク) are left standing today, but the few that do are recognized as World Heritage Sites and their continued existence is helping the people of Okinawa learn more about their history and their identity. 

Link: Gusuku (Wiki)

While there are efforts to reconstruct some of Okinawa’s castles, most of what you’ll find today is in ruins except for Okinawa’s most important castle, Shuri Castle - the former royal palace and stronghold of the Ryukyu Kingdom (琉球王國). 

With a history dating back more than five and a half centuries, Shuri Castle has been destroyed and reconstructed on several different occasions.
Fortunately after all this time (and all the terrible things that have happened in Okinawa over the past few centuries), the castle sits proudly high atop its perch in Naha and is open to the public for tours allowing the world to learn about the history of the former kingdom and its people. 

History 

Although the exact date of Shuri Castle’s construction is under debate, it is thought that The castle was initially completed during the late 1300s just before the political unification of the island into the Ryukyuan Kingdom.

In the following centuries the castle was modified, expanded, destroyed and rebuilt several times.

In its capacity as a royal palace and fortress for the Ryukyuan Kingdom, the castle was the home of the royal court and was the political, economic and cultural heart of the kingdom for almost five centuries.

Before Shuri Castle became the home of the Ryukyuan Kingdom it was home to the Kings of the Chuzan Kingdom (中山) during what was known as the Sanzan Period (三山時代).

Much like the “Three Kingdoms” period in China, Okinawa was split into three separate warring kingdoms named “Hokuzan” (北山), “Chuzan” (中山) and “Nanzan” (南山) with the Chuzan Kingdom being the strongest both economically and militarily. 

Three years before Sho Hashi (尚巴志) would come to power in Chuzan he set out with his fathers army in 1419 to conquer Hokuzan. Then, a decade later he finally seized Nanzan Castle which united the three kingdoms into the Ryukyu Kingdom.

Link: Sho Hashi (Wiki) | Ryukyuan Kingdom (Wiki) | Sanzan Period (Wiki)

The Ryukyuan Kingdom, despite its small size, played a key role in the maritime trade networks of East and Southeast Asia which made it an optimal port of call between China, Japan, Korea and Southeast Asian nations.

As a tributary state of the Ming (明朝) and later the Qing (清朝) dynasties, the Ryukyuan Kingdom enjoyed special privileges and protection thanks to its close relationship with China. The Chinese for their part assisted the kingdom by sending officials to assist with its governance, international relations, business and military matters.

While the history of the Ryukyuan Kingdom is fascinating, I don’t want to delve too deeply into its history with this post, so I’m just going to offer up a timeline of important events that have to do with Shuri Castle in particular so that you can better understand its history. 

Shuri Castle Timeline

  • Late 1300s - Shuri Castle is constructed for the Chuzan Kingdom. 

  • 1421 - Chuzan annexes Hokuzan into its territory. 

  • 1429 - Sho Hashi captures Nanzan and unites the three territories as one. 

  • 1429 - The Ryukyu Kingdom is established with Shuri Castle as its capital. 

  • 1453 - The castle is burnt to the ground.

  • 1458 - The Bridge of Nations Bell is placed in the Seiden.

  • 1470 - Construction of the Main Gate and walls are completed. 

  • 1477 ~ 1526 - The castle is expanded and several buildings are added.

  • 1660 - Fire destroys the castle for the second time. 

  • 1672 - The castle is rebuilt. 

  • 1709 - Fire destroys the castle for the third time. 

  • 1712 ~ 1715 - The castle is rebuilt again.

  • 1853 - Commodore Perry arrives in Okinawa and visits the castle. 

  • 1879 - The Meiji Government in Japan annexes the Ryukyu Islands thus ending the Ryukyuan Kingdom.

  • 1923 - Shuri Castle transforms into the Okinawa Prefectural Shinto Shrine.

  • 1925 - Shuri Castle is designated a National Treasure. 

  • 1945 - Shuri Castle is destroyed during the Battle of Okinawa. 

  • 1957 ~ 1989 - Restoration and reconstruction work on the castle.

  • 1992 - Shuri Castle Park is partially opened to the public.

  • 2000 - Shuri Castle is recognized by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. 

  • 2019 - Shuri Castle is once again destroyed by fire.


Places of Interest

There is quite a lot to see and do while touring Shuri Castle, so when you visit you’re going to have to be prepared for an action-packed couple of hours of learning about the castle and Ryukyuan culture and history. Unfortunately there are quite a few areas within the interior of the castle where photography is prohibited, so I’m going to simply point out a few places of interest below where you’re able to take photos and give a brief description of them, their significance and their history.

Shureimon Gate (守禮門)

On the road to Shuri Castle you’re going to pass through quite a few gates but few of them are as significant or as important as the Shureimon Gate. The gate, which is designated as a National Treasure was first constructed between 1527 and 1555, but unfortunately had to be reconstructed in 1958 after being destroyed during the Battle of Okinawa. 

The gate is constructed in a traditional Chinese architectural style known as “Pailou” (牌樓式) with beautiful red pillars and an arched roof with red tiles constructed with “Aka-Gawara” (沖繩赤瓦), a local type of clay. The large gate is intricately designed with a two-levelled arch roof, a plaque resting between the two levels and beautifully decorated tiles locking the pillars of the roof in place. 

Link: Paifang Gates (牌坊)

The inscription on the plaque reads “Shurei no Kuni” (守禮之邦) which loosely translates as “The Ryukyu Kingdom is a land of prosperity” (琉球乃為重視禮節之國) but is known to locals simply as “Lino Ayajo” (上之綾門) meaning “The beautiful gate at the top of the hill” (位於上方的美麗之門) showing the amount of respect that the local people give it. 

The gate tends to be a busy place and you’ll probably notice tour groups stopping in front of it to take group photos as it has become one of the defining features of the castle.

Sonohyan-Utaki (園比屋武御獄石門)

Close to the the Shureimon Gate stands the “Sonohyan-utaki”, a sacred stone gate that dates back to 1519 and is considered a sacred space for the local Ryukyuan folk religion. The gate is only ever opened for a Ryukyuan King, so it is perpetually closed, but is recognized as one of the important pieces of the castle grounds. 

In truth, most tourists are likely to pass by without paying much attention due to the fact that there isn’t much literature explaining its significance, which is unfortunate. The gate is said to be a perfect example of traditional Okinawan architecture that brilliantly combines Chinese and Japanese designs. 

Although the gate was heavily damaged during the Battle of Okinawa, it was restored in 1957 and became a World Heritage Site in 2000.

The ‘sacred grove’ behind the gate however has become increasingly smaller in recent years with the Naha Municipal Josie Elementary School (那霸市立城西小學校) encroaching on its space.

Link: Sonohyan-utaki (Wiki) 

Seiden (正殿)

The Seiden, which is also known as the “West Hall” or “National Palace” is the main attraction of your Shuri Castle tour. This building is considered to be the most important structure in the whole of the Ryukyu islands and is where you’ll find the throne room, royal residence and ceremonial areas. 

The three-floor palace is lavishly decorated combining the architectural design of China and Japan with elements of local Okinawan design making a completely unique structure.

The decorations on the exterior may not seem that extravagant from a distance, but the closer you get the more you’ll notice all the fine details - Notably the dragon pillars on either side of the staircase as well as the pair next to the front doors are considered to be the most beautiful in the world. 

The current version of the Seiden is a reconstruction completed in 1992 that was modelled after the 18th Century design of the hall that was destroyed during the Battle of Okinawa. Using historical records, photos and the memory of locals, the palace was rebuilt using modern construction techniques using concrete and wood. 

Considering the palace had burnt down on so many occasions throughout its six century long history, it was probably quite apt to this time construct a more modern version that wouldn’t be so easily destroyed. The wood used to construct the palace was specially imported from neighbouring Taiwan. The red paint that covers the walls on both the interior and exterior was likewise coated with a protective layer of Tung Oil (桐油) from Taiwan. 

Unfortunately even though measures were taken to prevent it from burning down again, the castle once again fell victim to fire on October 31st, 2019.

First Floor (下庫理)

The first floor of the Seiden is called the “Shichagui” (下庫理) and was used by the King as an area to conduct affairs of state. Sitting directly in the centre of the large room is an elevated, yet simple throne where the king would sit with spaces on both his left and right reserved for his children and grandchildren. Directly behind the throne is a pair of sliding doors that lead to a staircase (used only by the king) to reach the throne room on the second floor. 

The room isn’t very well lit and is painted a dark shade of red, so the decorations aren’t as easy to notice, but the golden dragon pillars located on either side of the throne (which represent the king) are quite beautiful. 

There isn’t much to see on the first floor, and once you arrive there you are nearing the end of your tour, so it seems like most people speed through and don’t really pay much attention to the intricate details of the room. If you’re touring the palace, make sure you don’t miss out and pay a bit of attention to the finer details of this room. 

Second Floor (大庫理)

The second floor of the Seiden is called the “Ufugui” (大庫理) and is home to the throne room as well as spaces that were used by the queen and high-ranking court officials while government was in session.

Directly behind the throne is a set of stairs and behind that was a shrine room that was used by the king to perform daily religious rituals. The adjoining rooms in the hall behind the throne room is where the women of the court would spend most of the time. 

Throne Room (御差床)

The “Usasuka” (御差床) or the kings throne room is the most ornate area of the entire palace and is quite spectacular in its design. The throne is elevated in the same way as it is on the first floor, but in this case the design of the platform where the throne sits is much more intricate. Likewise the dragon pillars on either side of the throne are beautifully painted. Next to the throne itself are another two golden dragons each of which face the throne. 

While the Seiden is a reproduction based off of the 18th Century model of the palace, the throne is a reproduction of the throne used by King Sho Shin (尚眞) who reigned from 1477 to 1526 and was recreated using official portraits of the king. 

Flanking the throne you’ll find three beautiful reproductions of Chinese-style plaques that were gifted to the Ryukyuan Kings by the Qing Emperors in China. 

While still in the throne room you’ll want to pay attention to a display on the far left that contains a reproduction of the crown traditionally worn by the king as well as a few other objects that were either recovered or reproduced and put on display.

Shoin (書院), Sasunoma (鎖之間) and the Garden (庭園)

First, the Shoin (書院), which is located between the Seiden and the Nanden served as the study and the office of the king as well as an area where he would rest and relax and entertain foreign officials. Connected directly to that is the Sasunoma (鎖之間) which was similarly used by other members of the royal family for official duties as well as for rest and relaxation. Today it is used instead as a tea house to help promote and educate visitors about traditional Ryukyuan culture in a memorable setting. 

The design of both of these areas is quite similar with beautifully crafted hardwood floors with tatami mats and walls with sliding doors that glow on hot summer days. It’s also important to note that the interior design of the rooms appear to be the most Japanese-inspired part of the entire castle. 

Considering that photography is prohibited during the first portion of the tour in the Nanden, I was quite happy that we were allowed to take photos in this area as it really one one of the most beautiful and naturally lit areas of the castle. Unfortunately if you don’t pay to take part in the tea ceremony, you’ll completely miss the Sasunoma and its beauty. 

Directly outside the Shoin and the Sasunoma sits the private royal garden where you’ll find a traditional rock garden as well as a plethora of well-maintained local tropical plants. The garden isn’t part of the tour though, so you won’t be able to walk outside either building and will instead be ushered onto the next part of the tour.

Una (院子)

“Una” roughly translates as the “courtyard” and is an empty space surrounded by the Seiden, Hokuden and Nanden. The courtyard is a large open space that was used primarily for receiving guests and holding official receptions. 

Personally I was a big fan of the courtyard due to the colour and the symmetry of its design which makes for really nice photos. If you are lucky to visit the castle on a day with clear blue skies, the courtyard in addition to the buildings in the castle will shine in the sun. 

Suimui Utaki (首里森御獄)

The “Suimui Utaki” is a shrine-like walled structure that is considered a sacred space in Ryukyuan folk religion. Located just outside the main gate to the castle, the shrine is a simple stone-walled structure that appears to have a large tree growing on the inside. According to the Ryukyu Creation myths, the shrine was created by a god and there are quite a few historic writings, songs and ballads that reference the shrine.

Considered to be one of the most sacred spaces within the castle walls, the shrine isn’t particularly an area that most tourists notice, but I recommend stopping by to check it out before you enter the main area of the castle.   

Touring the Castle 

Shuri Castle is open to the public year-round. (Closed only on the first Wednesday and Thursday of July)

Hours of Operation 

April - June: 8:30-19:00

July - September: 8:30-20:00

October - November: 8:30 - 19:30

December - March: 8:30 - 18:00

Admission Fee 

Adult (全票): ¥820 (Group rate: ¥660)

Student (學生): ¥620 (Group rate: ¥490)

Child (兒童): ¥310 (Group rate: ¥250)

Sasunoma Tea Room

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Once you’re inside the castle and halfway through the tour there is a beautiful tea room in the former royal study where you’re able to sit, take in the view of the tropical garden outside and enjoy some tea and delicious traditional Okinawan snacks.

The multilingual servers in the tea house will also take a bit of time to fully explain the different desserts that you’ll be tasting and the tea that you’ll be drinking

The price of entry is ¥310 and the tea room is open from 9:30 - 18:00 daily.

Traditional Ryukyuan Dance

As an added bonus, if you visit Shuri Castle on a Wednesday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday or a National holiday, you’ll be able to take in a free traditional Ryukyuan dance performance which is held three times a day. 

Morning Performance: 11:00 - 11:45

Afternoon Performance: 14:00 - 14:45

Evening Performance: 16:00 - 16:45 

The amount of time it takes to tour the castle really depends on how much time you’re willing to pay attention to all the small details, taking photos and the number of other tourists getting in your way.

You could easily walk through the front gates and be back on the bus to Naha within two hours, but I think its probably better to arrive relatively early in the morning, tour the castle, relax and enjoy some tea and traditional desserts in the Sasunoma Tea Room, take in a dance performance and then move on to your next destination.

One thing that you’ll want to note about touring the castle is that once you’ve made your way into the interior area, you’re going to have to remove your shoes and carry them around with you. You’ll be given a bag to place your shoes inside and you’ll be able to easily carry them around but this can make taking photos somewhat annoying. 

Link: Okinawa Shurijo Castle Park - English | Chinese | Japanese

Getting There 

 

Getting to Shuri Castle is relatively straight forward and shouldn’t cause too much difficulty for most travelers as it is easily accessible by car and through Naha’s public transportation network. 

If you are driving a rental car, the castle can be reached in anywhere between 10-20 minutes from the downtown area of the city and can be reached by using either the address or the MAPCODE listed below: 

Address: 1-2 Kanagusuku-cho, Shuri, Naha, Okinawa 903-0815 

〒903-0815 沖縄県那覇市首里金城町1-2

MAPCODE: 33 161 526*66

Once you’ve arrived at the castle you will have eleven different car parks to choose from with a fee of ¥960 for large cars and ¥320 for smaller compact vehicles. Some of those parks however range from five spaces to seventy, so you may need to do a bit of searching for a spot if you’re visiting on a busy day. It is also important to remember that these parking lots are a short distance away from the castle, so once you’ve found a spot you may end up having to walk for ten minutes or more to get to the castle.

Link: Parking Lots (Shurijo Castle)

If you’re taking the public transportation route, simply hop on the monorail at the closest Yui Rail station and enjoy the air conditioned train all the way out to Shuri Station (首里駅). From there you have the choice of walking for fifteen minutes to the castle or taking a bus. 

If you choose to walk, there is an ample amount of signage along the route that ensures that you’re not going to get lost along the way. If on the other hand you’d prefer to take a bus, you can hop on either Bus #7 or #8 from the ground level of Shuri Station and after five minutes you’ll arrive at Shurijo-Mae (首里城前) where you’ll get off. The trip should cost about ¥150. 

Link: Okinawa Bus Routes 

You can likewise take Bus #1 directly to the castle from Naha’s Kokusaidori (国際通り), “International Road” near the Naha City Hall Monorail Station. The ride takes about 15-20 minutes and costs ¥230. If you are staying in the downtown area, this is probably the best option for not only saving time but also saving money in transportation costs. If you take this bus route, make sure to get off at the Shurijo Koen Iriguchi (首里城公園入口) bus stop, which is a short walk from the entrance to the castle. 

It would be easy to pass off Shuri Castle and say that its just a reconstructed replica of what once was, but if you did that you’d be making a mistake. The people of Okinawa lost so much during the war, but the reconstruction of this important historic site is the realization of a dream that is helping to revitalize local culture and identity as well as giving the world an opportunity to learn about the once great Ryukyuan Kingdom and its people.

Given its designation as a UNESCO World Heritage site, it shouldn’t be surprising that since its completion the castle has become one of the most popular tourist attractions in the capital. If you find yourself in Okinawa and are spending a bit of time in the capital, you should definitely spend an afternoon enjoying a visit to Shuri Castle to learn a bit more about Okinawan culture and history.