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People of the Night 17 (基隆廟口夜市)

It has been a while since I posted photos in my "People of the Night" series of street photos from Taiwan's night markets - Last year I had introduced several of Taiwan's night markets and the people who make them what they are but after fifteen posts I was feeling like I had to move on and put the project on hiatus. I still have plans for other night markets but they will come out periodically over the next year or so.

With this new series from the Keelung Miaokou Night Market (基隆廟口夜市) I'm going to combine photos that were taken last year with some new shots that I took over recent weeks and split it into three different posts with a gallery of all the photos used in the posts as well as those that didn't make the cut in the final post. I will also do what I have normally done by explaining some of the interesting and unique aspects of this particular night market and the people who I've come to recognize after visiting so many times.

The Keelung Miaokou Tourist Night Market is often introduced by Travel guides as a MUST visit on any travellers as the night market is well-known for its diversity of Taiwanese delicacies and being so close to the sea - it's fresh selection of seafood dishes. The night market is jam-packed with Taiwanese and foreigners walking shoulder-to-shoulder every night of the week and it truly is a purely Taiwanese experience that shouldn't be missed while visiting the country.

1. Crab Soup (螃蟹羹)

This first post in the Miaokou Night market series is going to deal with seafood. This night market is particularly well known for seafood so I’m going to start out with a thick soup known as “geng” (羹 or 焿) that has several stalls throughout the market. This type of soup is thick, hearty, full of flavour and also has quite a bit of crab meat inside. Almost all of the crab soup stalls seem to be owned by the Wu family (吳記) and there are several stalls throughout the night market and they likely all serve the same uniform version of soup. Keelung is a coastal city and the area supplies northern Taiwan with most of its seafood. Tourists travel to the city and to the night market for cheap and fresh seafood and this soup is a popular example of that. 

2. Takoyaki (たこ焼き) / Octopus Balls (章魚燒) 

Takoyaki is a popular Japanese delicacy that originated in Osaka and made its way to Taiwan. You can find Takoyaki stalls all over the country and in any night market. Takoyaki is essentially a ball-shaped snack made of a wheat-flour based batter and a chunk of octopus tentacle in the middle. The balls are prepared on a special molded pan and when they're ready they are placed in a paper tray and the chef applies a special Takoyaki ponzu sauce and another sauce of your choice (I always choose wasabi) and then topped with bonito flakes. These are one of my favourite snacks here in Taiwan and they are always really cheap. In this night market you can be sure that the seafood is fresh meaning that you are likely to have one of the better Takoyaki experiences of your life in Keelung!

3. Giant Shrimp (大蝦) 

Shrimp is a popular dish at this night market and this stall sells a variety of large fresh shrimp to customers all prepared in different flavours. It is common in other markets around the country to find vendors selling Thai shrimp in a variety of flavours but not in the Keelung night market - these are all fresh shrimp taken from the ocean near Taiwan. Stalls like this can be expensive depending on the size of the shrimp and the price depends on the market value of the day. I'm a big fan of Pepper shrimp (胡椒蝦) and Spicy Sichuan (麻辣蝦) flavours while friends of mine like the garlic and lemon flavours. If you're visiting the Miaokou night market you may want to splurge a little to get some of the seafood that the market is famous for and this is probably a pretty good choice!

4. Fried Shrimp and Bite Sized Crabs (蝦猴 / 一口蟹)

Taiwanese people love deep-fried foods, they're also big fans of fresh seafood and anything bite-sized (一口吃). What better combination could there be than bite-sized crabs deep fried with Japanese tempura? This is a popular stall within the night market as the prices are set and the boss just fries up a bag of deep-fried shellfish goodness for customers. The shells of the crabs and shrimp at this stall are edible and you don't have to worry about making a mess with your hands! There are different size portions available and the boss will also sprinkle some chilli sauce or or the absolutely delicious Taiwanese style mixed salt/pepper concoction (胡椒鹽) to make it even more delicious!

5. BBQ Seafood (海鮮烤肉)

This particular vendor is a fun one to visit as its not your typical night market stall. It's more of a restaurant that has tables and seating along the side of the road. You just order the seafood you want and the chef will grill it up for you and serve it to your table. Vendors like this typically also have draft beer on tap and you can leisurely sit down with friends and have a big feed of fresh seafood while thousands of people walk past you. Stalls like this remind me of the Temple Street Night Market in Hong Kong where you take a seat along the road and order some really amazing HK-style crab dishes. Here in Taiwan though vendors like this specialize in Japanese-style grilling and the flavours of the seafood are more important than what was used to season it. Stalls like this can be a bit pricey but they are fun and the food is always really good!

People of the Night 7 (饒河夜市)

The next few posts in my People of the Night series are all going to be from Taipei's popular Raohe Tourist Night Market (饒河街觀光夜市) Raohe Night Market is my personal favourite night market in Taipei. It is a 600 meter long street that has lots of delicious foods and due to the narrow nature of the street, there are a lot more food stalls than there are of other varieties of stalls.

It has some of the best food including the famous black pepper buns, lots of seafood choices, Japanese cuisine and one of my favourite dishes - lamb stewed in Chinese herbal medicine. It also has the beautiful Ci-You Temple (慈祐宮) which is one of my favourite temples in Taipei.

With this series, I'm going to split up the posts with different themes which will focus on the various aspects of the night market and the people who set up shop there. The themes will focus on different kinds of foods, fortune tellers, games, and salespeople. I also won't put a cap of five shots per post like I did with the previous series - although I'll try to keep it close.


If you missed the first post in the series click here: Rao-He Night Market 1


1. Traditional Facial Threading (挽臉老闆)

One of the strangest things I saw when I first arrived in Taiwan was this woman who set up shop in an alley between a couple of buildings in downtown Zhongli. There was a long line for her services and every time I walked by I tried to figure out what she was doing. She had a couple of strings in her hand and she was moving them around the face of a young woman who had some sort of powder on her face. I eventually struck up the nerve to ask the boss what she was doing and she explained that it was a type of traditional hair removal. No shaving required! As a guy whose family history is almost 100% of Scottish origin, this interested me quite a bit. One of the things I hate dong most is shaving - and I have to shave quite often. The lady shattered my dreams however when she told me that if I were to try this type of hair removal, It would be extremely painful. In this shot we have quite a large shop set up with several facial threading stations on the outside with Taiwanese foot massage services inside. The boss stopped to look at me as I passed by. I'm not sure how much this costs, but women sure seem to like it. 

 

2. What's in a Name? (算命者)

When I covered the Zhongli Night Market I had a shot of a similar fortune teller. This type of fortune teller is a master of names and they advise people whether or not their name is lucky or not, the name they've chosen for their baby is appropriate and whether or not their companies name is one that will allow them to make loads and loads of cash. As a North American, I find it strange when people change their names. In our culture, someone who changes their name is usually a criminal and doesn't want to be recognized when they rejoin society. In Taiwan however, your name might not be lucky enough to score you a high paying job, or a rich husband, so it's important to have the right name. 

3. Mole Fortune Teller / Remover (美容點痣專家) 

Moles, moles, moles.. What can I say? North Americans are not fond of moles. We consider them somewhat unattractive and worry about their cancerous side effects. In Taiwan however, moles can be considered good luck charms and a mole in a certain position on your face may mean big things for you. This woman is a type of fortune teller who will analyze the moles on your face and tell you if they're good or bad. More importantly if your mole is unlucky or unhealthy, she will help you to remove it. Given that Taiwan's Health Care System is so exceptional, I'm not sure I'd want to have a mole removed at the night market. I'd much prefer to visit a dermatologist! I asked a few friends about this kind of fortune teller, and they informed me that they are actually quite popular.  

4. God Bird Fortune Teller (神鳥卜卦)

The "God Bird" type of fortune teller is a pretty rare variety in Taiwan's night markets. You don't see them that often, but when you do, they are usually quite busy. This type of fortune teller uses birds which will choose certain pieces of paper and the fortune teller will analyze what is on the paper to tell you your fortune. It only costs about 10 US dollars for the bird to tell your fortune, which isn't expensive although I'd much rather pay that money to have the bird released. 

5. Shoe Saleswoman (鞋子老闆娘)

Over the course of shooting the Rao-He night market, I took a shots of this vendor on each visit. Each time I visited, she was doing the same thing - reading the newspaper. I had close up shots of her and wide-open shots as well. In the end I went with this shot because it showed more of her environment. This vendor sells affordable shoes for children and teenagers which makes it popular with parents who are looking to save a bit of money. The shoes are mostly all cartoon characters or knock-offs of popular brands. This vendor has to set up shop and tear it down every day, so as you can imagine, having a chance to sit down and read this newspaper is probably a welcome break for her! 

6. Night Market Day Care (夜市保姆) 

This vendor makes her living selling cute socks. Things that are "cute" sell very easily in Taiwan, especially with young girls. I'm more of a white sock kind of guy and to tell the truth I actually buy all of my socks at the night market. In this shot, I focused on the small child doing his homework rather than his mom, who was busy at work. I'm assuming that working at the night market means that she may not have much time to spend with her child, so she brings him along from time to time. I can't imagine the night market being a boring place for a child, but it's probably not the best environment to grow up in.  


I'll be back this weekend with a post about some of the artisans and traditional games at the Raohe night market. 

If you have any questions, criticisms or corrections - send me a comment below!