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Xingang (新港) - Beigang (北港) Temples

Xingang (新港) - Beigang (北港) Lunar New Year Markets

The Lunar New Year is one of the most important times of the year for people in Taiwan - For students, it is the time when they have their month-long winter vacation (寒假) and for adults, the government mandates at least a week or more off of work to celebrate the holidays giving people a much needed break. 

This means that, like in other parts of Asia, there is a mass migration of sorts with people travelling from the place they work to their ancestral homes. It also means that highways, roads and tourist sites all over the country are jam-packed with travellers who use their time off from work and school to the best of their ability. 

I've been in Taiwan for over a decade now and it has become somewhat of a tradition of mine to use my free time to travel during the holidays. I travel to different places every year but the one constant through all the years is that I always make my way down to Xingang (新港) in Chiayi County (嘉義縣) and its neighbour Beigang (北港) in Yunlin County (雲林)

Historically, both Xingang, which translates as "New Port" and Beigang, "North Port" were important and existed as coastal staging areas during the Dutch occupation of the island. Later, Beigang became one of the most important ports in the 17th Century and brought a lot of prosperity to the area. 

Today, the two villages are most well-known for their famous temples which date back to the 1600s. The Beigang Chaotian Temple (北港朝天宮) is visited by more than a million people each year and the Xingang Fengtian Temple (新港奉天宮), which claims to be the first Mazu temple in Taiwan. Coincidentally these temples being as old as they are, as well off as they are and as close as they are had somewhat of an unhealthy rivalry that went on for decades. This rivalry only ended recently when the Mazu statue from Fengtian Temple visited the Chaotian Temple as a show of reconciliation. Oh, religion. 

Chaotian Temple (北港朝天宮) 

Chaotian Temple

The Chaotian Temple is around 300 years old and is pretty much THE most important Mazu Temple in Taiwan. The temple is important not because it is the biggest but due to the fact that it takes a leading role when it comes to Mazu worship in this country. The temple is therefore very popular and also very well off. During Lunar New Year the temple becomes extremely busy with people from all over Taiwan visiting to get the blessing of the "Heavenly Mother" (天上聖母) and a visit to this temple during the Lunar New Year holiday is a pretty awesome cultural experience! 

Fengtian Temple (新港奉天宮) 

Fengtian Temple awning with the market in front. 

Fengtian Temple (奉天宮) claims to the the first temple dedicated to the goddess Mazu in Taiwan and despite being built almost 400 years ago, it has met with destruction a few times due to earthquakes and other natural disasters. The current temple is almost a century old and is an extremely large and beautiful temple. Fengtian Temple serves as the last stop on the Dajia Mazu Pilgrimage (大甲媽祖遶境進香活動) and is typically a very busy temple during the rest of the year. A market is set up in front of the temple with several local restaurants and vendors selling local produce and foods from Chiayi. During the Lunar New Year both the market in front of the temple and the inside of the temple are quite busy with people who have travelled from all over Taiwan and looking to receive a blessing from the goddess Mazu, also known as the "Heavenly Mother" (天上聖母) who serves as somewhat of a patron saint for the people of Taiwan. 

My next post will be coming very quickly and will be about the massive Taiwan lantern festival (台灣燈會) that is being held here in Taoyuan this year. I've finally gotten back on track with work and have finished working on all the photos that I took over the long holiday! So expect me to be back on my normal schedule of posting a few blogs a week over the next few months. 


People of the Night 8 (饒河夜市)

The next few posts in my People of the Night series are all going to be from Taipei's popular Raohe Tourist Night Market (饒河夜市.) Raohe Night Market is my personal favourite night market in Taipei. It is a 600 meter long street that has lots of delicious foods and due to the narrow nature of the street, there are a lot more food stalls than there are of other varieties of stalls. It has some of the best food including the famous black pepper buns, lots of seafood choices, Japanese cuisine and one of my favourite dishes - lamb stewed in Chinese herbal medicine. It also has the beautiful Ci-You Temple (慈祐宮) which is one of my favourite temples in Taipei.

With this series, I'm going to split up the posts with different themes which will focus on the various aspects of the night market and the people who set up shop there. The themes will focus on different kinds of foods, fortune tellers, games, and salespeople. I also won't put a cap of five shots per post like I did with the previous series - although I'll try to keep it close.



1. Taiwanese Glass Artist (琉璃師傅)

There is a small Taiwanese company you might have heard of called "Liuligongfang" (琉璃工房) that designs coloured glass sculptures for world leaders and the rich. This type of traditional glass art was a dying art before the company revived it and amassed a large fortune in the process. Through the work of Liuligongfang, Taiwanese glass art became popular on the world stage and people who like that kind of thing may consider visiting the country for dorm handmade art. This specific artist set up in a quiet section of the nightmarket and carefully works in her art to sell people. Her designs are usually traditional objects and are often the same colour as jade because it makes you look rich. It's cool to stop and watch to see how she does this stuff. That or you can just stare at the flames. 

2. The Faux-Painter (Bead Art) 

While walking past this guy the first time I thought he was an amazing artist who was in the middle of the night market painting traditional art. Upon further inspection however I realized that he was attaching coloured beads to a stencil almost like a paint-by-numbers artist would do. Artist or not, this guy was in the middle of making something beautiful and if the frames behind him were any indication of his skill, I would have to say he's quite gifted. This vendor will sell you a box with the stencil, tools and all the beads you need to complete the project. All you need is a bit of dedication and lots of free time. 

3. The Puzzle Lady (拼圖老闆娘)

In a world where smart phones, tablets, computers and video game consoles consume the majority of a child's free time, it's refreshing to see that a vendor selling puzzles can still be so popular with all age types. When I walked past, kids were yelling out the names of the designs they wanted to see while adults patiently waited behind them. She had all sorts of puzzles including famous Taiwanese scenery, world landmarks and the most recent Japanese anime and Disney characters. I had thought that this kind of activity died off with my generation but if her business on that night was any indication - then I was wrong.  

4. Pinball (彈珠遊戲)

Pinball is a popular game in all night markets, just like in my last series from Zhongli Night Market, you can see a few pinball vendors in the Raohe night market. It is really cheap to play a few rounds of pinball and if you play, you will always get a little prize. If you do well, and invest more you may even get a much better prize. In a world where kids are constantly using smart phones to play games, it is nice to see that they can still appreciate old games like this. 

5. The Sticker Maker (姓名貼) 

Stickers are important in Taiwan and guys like this are quite busy. People like to print stickers with their names on them and they will put the stickers on every piece of stationery that they own - making it quite difficult to steal a Taiwanese person's pen. These stickers are relatively cheap and it is normal for kids to always have some in their pencil cases. I had some stickers of my own printed a year or two ago with my name and a batman logo beside them. I was pretty proud of my stickers, but I couldn't bring myself to use them as religiously as kids here do. If you visit Taiwan, some personalized stickers might be a great souvenir to bring back home with you. 

A Walk Through Daxi (大溪老街)

Daxi Old Street (大溪老街) is probably one of the nicer and more well-maintained of all of Taiwan’s old-streets. The street, which is also known as “Peace Street” (和平路) is renowned in Taiwan for it's architectural style and it draws large crowds of people on weekends wanting to experience a bit of Taiwanese history.

The government has recently started to push for more foreign tourism in the area, opening Taiwan’s first “Traveler's Space” which will offer multi-lingual services, self-guided tour maps and samples of some of the specialties that Daxi has to offer.

I visit Daxi often as it is relatively close to where I live and when I go, it is always on the weekends when it is busiest – This time (much like my walk through Beipu Old Street) I wanted to walk around the relatively empty streets on a weekday and explore the back alleys behind the street for a glimpse into the lives of the residents of the village and not have a bunch of people filling my frames. 

Even though I've visited several times, I've never really explored many of the streets and alleys around the main street. I was surprised this time to find several streets and alleys that were more or less the same as the Old Street in architectural-style (however showing a bit of their age due to a lack of maintenance.)  

One of the few statues of CKS that still has its head attached. 

The Daxi River Valley area is already quite popular with domestic tourists and those from China as well because Daxi is the resting place of former presidents Chiang Kai Shek (蔣介石) and Chiang Ching Kuo (蔣經國.) The Chiang family was quite fond of the village back in the day and had residences in the town and outside of the town in Cihu (慈湖) which is where the Chiang’s lie in state.

Tourists from China who visit Taiwan often visit these areas to show their respect to the Chiang’s, who were important figures in modern Chinese history despite the precarious nature of the political situation between the two countries and the Chiang family legacy in both China and Taiwan during the Chinese Civil War.

Sidewalks on Daxi Old Street

Long before Chiang and his Nationalists retreated to Taiwan from China, Daxi was a commercially successful village that found its riches exporting tea and camphor. The Old Street was originally constructed as a shortcut to transport goods to the river and as the economy grew in the village, businesses soon starting popping up along the street.

The wealthy merchants in the village wanted a way to show off a bit of their prosperity so they hired artisans to come and help design and carve beautiful stone designs on their homes and businesses along the main street and the streets around it. What you see today is a neighbourhood designed in the "baroque" style of architecture (which was popular in Europe at the time) fused with both Chinese and Japanese influences. 

Alley's behind Daxi Old Street

The village thrived for decades due to trade between the Dahan River (大漢溪) and the Danshui River (淡水河) but improved modes of transportation took over as the preferred method of moving goods back and forth which dealt somewhat of an economic blow to the village.

Even though the economy started to decline, people in the village continued to do well for themselves through the end of the Japanese occupation and the Nationalist takeover. The village was eventually adopted by the Chiang family as a retreat of sorts and within the last few decades it has became a tourist “old street” for people who want to experience the feeling of walking through a historical street that seems more like a Hollywood set than a real-life town. 

A young boy at the gate of the Shou-De Zen Buddhist Temple

History alone however wouldn't bring the masses to the village on the weekends. Taiwan is a food-crazed country and people are willing to travel all over just to try specific dishes. Luckily, Daxi has quite a few of its own delicacies to add to the historical attraction. If you visit Daxi and are completely unaware of what the popular dishes are, one indication would be the store fronts that have long lines of people waiting to sample some of the foods.

There is a variety of food that you can eat while on the Old Street and there are a lot of vendors who set up each and every day along the road making it seem a little like a night market. You should be sure to try some of the most popular dishes though, namely the Dried Tofu (豆乾), some Tofu Pudding (豆花) and freshly made Peanut Candy (花生糖.) 

The Main Street is also filled with small shops selling traditional toys for children as well as souvenirs and other Taiwan-related things - and even some kimonos if you so desire!  

Making Peanut Candy! (花生糖)

As mentioned before, on this visit I spent the most of my time on the streets adjacent to the Main Street as it is the area where the actual residents do their every day shopping and where you can see the locals in their natural environment. In these areas you can find small restaurants filled with local people as well as traditional grocery stores and farmers selling local produce. To me, these areas are a lot more interesting than touristy areas and I recommend that if you visit Daxi, you spend a bit of your day wandering around the adjacent streets and don't spend all your time on the old street.

A local farmer selling produce on a street near Daxi Old Street

A local farmer selling produce on a street near Daxi Old Street

Walking along the other old roads like this will also take you past old Japanese-era buildings, the former summer residence of Chiang Kai-Shek, some well-maintained Fujian-style mansions and a mountainside park that has an excellent view of the popular Daxi bridge (大溪橋.) and the fading Da-Han river.  Most Taiwanese people visit Daxi make the bridge an important part of their itinerary as it is quite beautiful walking across it at night. Taiwanese people have an affection for bridges that foreigners have a hard time understanding. The Daxi Bridge is a historical one though and I guess I can see some of the appeal. 

A Fujian-Style Mansion at the end of the Old Street

The old street also has three important places of worship, the biggest being Fu-Ren temple (福仁宮) a multi-faith temple, Shou-De Zen Buddhist Temple (修德禪寺) and Po-Chai Taoist Temple (普濟堂.) The temples hold several major events religious events each year (one of which I hope to shoot this year) and are quite important to the village both historically and culturally. 

An old Japanese-era building near the Old Street (武德殿)

Daxi Old Street can be a pretty busy place, yet for all the years I've been going, I haven't really seen many foreigners. Some might not know about the village, and others may feel it is an inconvenient day trip. I hope the new initiative by the government will bring in more foreign tourists to enjoy the sights and learn about the history of the village. If you are relying on public transportation to get to the village, then you will be a bit limited in what you can do, but if you have your own method of transportation, you can easily fill an entire day in the area and I highly recommend some of the other attractions.

Coincidentally as I'm standing on the sidewalk with my iPad in hand in Taipei waiting for a bus and writing this blog, a bus drove by on the other side of the road with a full-side English advertisement for the village in an attempt to bring foreigners. 

It is quite evident there is a push to promote Daxi, so I hope the next time I go I can see some more foreign faces!  


Getting to Daxi Old Street

 

No. 1 National Highway(國道一號) -> Taoyuan Interchange (桃園交流道) -> No. 4 Provincial Highway(台4線) -> Daxi (桃園大溪) -> Heping Road, Zhongshan Road & Zhongyang Road (和平路及中山路、中央路) 

No. 1 National Highway(國道一號) -> Pingzhen Interchange (平鎮交流道) -> No. 61 Provincial Highway (台61線) -> Daxi (桃園大溪) -> Heping Road, Zhongshan Road & Zhongyang Road (和平路及中山路、中央路)

No. 3 National Highway (國道一號) -> Daxi Interchange (大溪交流道) -> Chiding (崎頂) -> Daxi (大溪)-> Heping Road, Zhongshan Road & Zhongyang Road (和平路及中山路、中央路)

By Bus:
Take Taoyuan Bus 桃園客運#5096 (Taoyuan-Daxi route) from the back of Taoyuan Train Station (桃園後火車站) to Daxi (大溪) or take Taoyuan Bus 桃園客運#5096 (Zhongli-Daxi route) from the rear exit of the Zhongli Train Station (中壢車站)