客家

Pigs of God 2020

Without fail, one of the busiest times on my yearly calendar is when the annual Ghost Month (中元節) rolls around, usually in the late stages of summer, or the seventh month on the lunar calendar. 

The problem I find myself faced with each and every year is that there is always so much to see and do that I need to be strategic and make sure to plan well in advance, so that I can make the most of my time. 

Even though there is so much to do, one of the events that I rarely ever miss is the annual celebrations that the local Hakka people in the community I live in put on for the Yimin Festival (義民祭). 

One of the reasons I love this festival is that it combines Hakka culture with a carnival-like atmosphere and whenever I go, I always end up running into people that I haven’t seen in years, while also enjoying some of my favourite local dishes. 

The problem with the whole thing is that there is also a dark shadow cast over the entire event thanks to the inclusion of the “Pigs of God” (神豬), a controversial element that goes hand-in-hand with the festival in the various places where it is celebrated throughout the country. 

As I’ve already mentioned a few times here on my blog, the competition is controversial because its viewed by many in contemporary society as a form of unnecessary animal cruelty which clearly violates animal abuse laws, but is supported by local temples and politicians who view it as an important cultural and religious activity.

Not to sound like a hypocrite, even though I’m philosophically opposed to the practice, I also rarely miss the chance to check it out and document it. 

So if I’m not a hypocrite what am I? A glutton for punishment? A masochist? 

I can’t really say. 

Part of me hopes that at some point in the near future all of this stuff will come to a screeching halt and the abuse of these poor animals will stop.

But on the other hand, every year I feel compelled to attend the festival to see what’s going on. 

Before I get into any of my thoughts about this years event, I think it’s important to give you a bit more information about what this event actually is. I’ll explain it briefly before, but I’m not going to copy and paste what I’ve already published, so if you’d like more in-depth information about the festival, I recommend taking a look at the links below. 

Yimin Temple | Pigs of God 2015 | Pigs of God 2016 | Pigs of God 2017

It’s also important that I provide a disclaimer before moving on: 

As you read on, there will be photos of animal sacrifices that you may-or-may-not feel comfortable looking at. There is nothing particularly gruesome about any of it, but I’m just warning you beforehand that the photos may be unsettling for some people. 


The Pigs of God (神豬/豬公)

Earlier this week, the Hakka Affairs Council, the government agency tasked with the preservation and promotion of Hakka language and culture, tweeted: “President Tsai Ying-wen attended a ceremony in observance of Hakka Yimin Festival on September 7th, a three-day event that aims to promote the spirit of Yimin, a collective phrase for Hakka Martyrs who sacrificed their lives to defend their homeland in the past. Under the collaboration between the central and local governments, Taiwan’s Hakka Yimin Festival has become one of the biggest national festivals.” 

And then without a hint of irony, Channel News Asia published a report titled: “Taiwan’s Polarising Pig Festival Draws Smaller Sacrifices” which proudly explained that this year the sacrifices were smaller and so too were the crowds who came to see them. 

So which one is closer to the truth?

Given that I’ve attended this event every year for well over a decade, I’m probably able to explain this stuff a little bit better than government propaganda or foreign news reports.

First though, I realize that few people will actually click the links I’ve provided above, so let me briefly talk about what the Yimin Festival is. 

Way back when people in China regarded Taiwan as nothing but a worthless pile of dirt, the Hakka’s were one of the first groups brave enough to immigrate to the island. 

Having settled here for hundreds of years, the Hakka people have a long and interesting history in Taiwan and are highly regarded for their loyalty, hard work and contributions to developing the country into the place we know and love today. 

That being said, life for the Hakka’s was never easy and throughout history they have constantly had to face persecution and discrimination.

Nevertheless, when duty calls, the Hakka people have always been on the front lines in order to protect their homes and families. Notably in 1786, a massive uprising against the Qing took place in central Taiwan and in order to protect their way of life, the Hakka formed a volunteer militia to help quell the uprising. 

Quickly putting together a force of over 1,300, the Hakka militia was victorious in quelling the uprising and saving their homes, but they also suffered tremendous losses. 

Due to the large number of casualties, it was decided that the dead would be buried together in a large tomb and honored as heroes, which became the foundation for “Yimin” (義民) worship and the Yimin Temple.

How do the Pigs of God factor into any of this? 

In what became a long-standing tradition, each year during the Yimin Festival, families would pool together to contribute food for a large festival. It was also decided that one of the major families would be responsible for sacrificing a pig to the ancestors as a show of respect.

Link: Hsinpu Ancestral Shrines

This rotation went on for quite some time but soon a competition (of sorts) started between families as the pigs raised for the festival started becoming larger and larger.

Ultimately the size of the pig that was offered up each year symbolized the wealth and power of a family which meant that as the years went by, the size of the pigs became a show of “face” and local power.

Today the Yimin Festival is celebrated all over Taiwan, but it is a much larger occasion in the Taoyuan, Hsinchu, Miaoli (桃竹苗) areas, which is where you’ll find the largest concentration of Hakka people in Northern Taiwan.

The majority of the festivities are held at the Baozhong Yimin Temple (褒忠義民廟) in Hsinpu (新埔), but wherever the festival takes place, the Pigs of God are also likely to make an appearance. 

Just for a bit of clarity - market sized hogs sell when they are at about 250 - 270 pounds (113-122kg).

This means that a Pig of God candidate has to grow to at least 5-6 times the size of a normal pig.  

Winning pigs in the past have reached anywhere between 800-900 kilograms, making them almost ten times the size of a normal healthy pig.

To achieve such a result, the pigs are raised for anywhere between two and four years and are constantly overfed and placed in a confined space, which ultimately forces them to become immobile.

This lifestyle is extremely unhealthy for the animals as they develop painful bed sores, suffer from organ failure, developmental deformities and various other ailments.

Adding to the problem, animal rights groups have accused farmers of force-feeding the pigs heavy-metals or stones days before the contest takes place, in order to achieve a higher final weight. 

As criticism of the competition has grown, proponents for the event have argued that there is no cruelty involved and farmers have even opened up their farms for animal rights groups to come and check out the process. They’ve also argued that once the pig is sacrificed, its meat is distributed to local charities so that there is no waste involved.

Link: What is Taiwan’s Pigs of God Weighing Contest? (EAST)  

My only question is, if the claims are true about the illnesses these poor animals suffer, how safe is the meat to actually eat? 

So, let’s talk about the 2020 Yimin festival. 

The last time I blogged about the Yimin Festival, I left feeling rather optimistic. 

Our current Mayor, Cheng Wen-tsan (鄭文燦), had just taken office with a progressive set of policies and things were looking good. The festival organizers were tasked with coming up with “environmentally friendly” ideas to slowly phase out the pigs - and the amount of pigs that were put on display was reduced.

Here’s a recap of my observations from the last time I blogged about this: 

  1. The Pigs of God this year were considerably smaller, which shows that a little more care was taken not to abuse the animals and overfeed them as much as in years past.

  2. The Taoyuan City Government promoted the usage of “Environmentally Friendly Pigs of God" (環保神豬), which were art displays made to look like pigs and constructed out of recycled products and paraded around town in the same way that the real pigs would be.

  3. The event organizers planned an alternate activity where local people as well as dignitaries as high up as President Tsai Ying-Wen would come and release water lanterns on the eve of the event.

This year, all of that progress was thrown out the window. 

There were seven Pigs of God put on display, with a total of seventeen entering the competition.

The winning pig weighed 880 kilos with the smallest being 580 kilos.

There were no “Environmentally Friendly” pigs to be seen and they went all-out with ostentatious displays of firecrackers, fireworks and pole dancers. 

And this was only at the Yimin Temple closest to where I live.

Link: The Pigs of God: Force-Fed then slaughtered for spectacle (We Animals)

There were several other temples, including one that was only a ten minute drive away, where similar events were taking place and the Pigs of God were put on display at almost all of them. 

I was hoping that the efforts being made to phase this event out would have continued, but it seems like despite people’s objections, the political clout of some of these temples far greater exceeds the calls for change and modernization. 

I’d also note that the last few times I’ve attended the festival, there were protesters who were also there trying their best to get people to pay attention to the plight of the pigs.

This year, they didn’t bother showing up. 

The fact that politicians as far up the political ladder as the President and Taoyuan’s mayor took part in the activities just goes to show that the political will to actually do something probably isn’t really there, which is unfortunate. 

The Yimin Festival continues to be a popular event and attracts crowds of thousands - I’m not sure where Channel News Asia (in the article linked above) got their numbers, but they were way off.

I haven’t seen any official figures, but from what I saw, not even a global pandemic could keep the crowds from attending this year. 

I’m sad to say that the Pigs of God aspect of this festival are going to be phased out any time soon, so I guess you’ll probably be seeing future Pigs of God posts from me in the future. 

*sigh* 


Hakka Dried Persimmons (柿餅)

This October marked the five year anniversary of this modest little space on the web.

Things have changed quite a bit around here since I first opened this site and I’ve ended up learning quite a bit in the process, but what has always stayed the same is my dedication to introducing Taiwan to people who want to learn about and travel to this beautiful country.

From the outset, it wasn’t actually my plan to make this blog such an important part of what I do here, but things kind of took a life of their own and here I am five years later writing about a bunch of places and things that most people think are weird.

Coincidentally at a recent event I was working at, a journalist approached me and after introducing myself she said: “Oh, you’re that guy that posts all those weird and wonderful blogs!”

To which I could only just smile and nod.

The point of the site was always to provide a space for my photography - Writing was never my area of expertise (and its never going to be), but I do make an effort not to completely make a fool out of myself.

So, now that its been half a decade since I posted my first blog, I’d like to thank all of you who have frequently visited and I hope you’ve benefitted from my experience.

I also hope you’ve enjoyed my photos at the same time.

Looking back, the very first blog I posted on here was about the traditional Hakka practice of drying persimmons in the sun in the mountains of Hsinchu County. I’ve been visiting this quaint little persimmon farm in Hsinpu, the cultural heartland for the Hakka people of Taiwan, for well over a decade and is a yearly tradition that never grows old.

The traditional drying practice, which relies on placing fruit and vegetables around two meters above the ground on a network of bamboo poles was once a yearly activity for a lot of local families, but as is the case with a lot of cultural traditions, has been slowly dying off.

Thankfully the good people at the Wei Wei Jia Persimmon Tourist Farm (新埔的味衛佳柿餅觀光農場) have not only successfully preserved the traditional drying process, they’ve also ensured that it is picturesque which attracts people from all over Taiwan who visit each year to take photos, learn a bit about Hakka culture and of course purchase some dried persimmons.

To learn more about the Persimmon Farm, click the link below.

Link: Hsinpu Dried Persimmons (新埔柿餅)

Even though I’ve visited well over a dozen times, I always make sure to bring my camera along with me each and every time I visit this beautiful farm - This ensures that I’m always going to have something new to share and will be able to keep people updated about what’s happening.

The drying process is one of those cultural traditions that makes for really pretty photos and the colour of the sun shining on the persimmons is something that should make your camera quite happy.

I will admit though that I’m not really a big fan of eating dried persimmons.

As one does though, I always make sure to buy a few boxes each time I visit to share with friends and co-workers.

This year, instead of regurgitating a bunch of information I’ve already provided, I’m just going to post a collection of photos from my most recent visit for you to enjoy.

I also recommend checking out my off-site Dried Persimmon Flickr Gallery which has the entire collection of photos that I have posted from the many years I’ve visited!

Link: Hsinpu Dried Persimmons (Flickr)

If you haven’t visited Hsinpu yet, I’d highly recommend checking it out.

The small village is jam-packed with Hakka history, amazing Hakka cuisine and these persimmons!  

Hsinpu Links: Baozhong Yimin Temple | Hsinpu Hakka Ancestral Shrines | Wu Zhuo Liu Memorial Home

Tung Blossoms 2019 (客家桐花祭)

As a long term resident of Taoyuan, I’ve been lucky over the years to have been immersed in pretty much everything that is Hakka culture. Almost everywhere you go around here, you’re able to find amazing cuisine, festivals and museums set up to share and preserve the culture and language of one of Taiwan’s largest ethnic groups.

Of all the Hakka related festivals that take place every year, the Hakka Tung Blossom Festival has grown to be one of my personal favourites. Taking place every April and May, the festival showcases the beautiful Tung Blossom, a Sakura-like blossom which has become synonymous with the Hakka people.

As each year passes, festival organizers do an amazing job of coming up with new and exciting events and activities that attracts people of all walks of life to the mountains throughout the Taoyuan-Hsinchu-Miaoli area and beyond.

I’ve never really needed any these snazzy events to attract my attention - The beautiful Tung Blossoms that turn Taoyuan’s lush green mountainous landscape white in the months leading up to summer have always been more than enough for me and during the two-month period when the blossoms are in bloom, the beauty of the Taoyuan area in particular begins to shine - and I head to the mountains in my free time to take photos and enjoy nature.

Many of the events that are planned it seems are geared toward attracting the older crowd who are more interested in a day-trip where they can combine the blossoms, some entertainment and most importantly some great food. The younger crowds on the other hand have proven to be much easier to attract as they’re all about the Instagram, and what could be more Instagrammable than these beautiful white blossoms?

As it has become somewhat of a yearly tradition of mine to head to the mountains to check out the Tung Blossoms, there are a few locations that have become my go-to destinations for taking photos. One of the problems when taking photos of these blossoms is that unlike the relatively short cherry blossom trees, Tung trees are tall and that makes it difficult to get close to where they’re blooming.

Not everyone has a telephoto lens, so this is why people have come up with clever ways and cute to take photos of the blossoms. If you pay attention to Instagram, you may have noticed people collecting the blossoms that have fallen to the ground and to heart-shaped designs, Tung blossom crowns, or taking cleverly posed photos of the mountain paths where the blossoms have fallen on the ground creating what looks like a layer of snow.

Personally, I prefer taking photos of the blossoms while they’re still on the tree, so the places I visit are often areas that allow me to get close enough to take photos. This year, I decided to visit a location that I’ve never visited before, but has become a photo hotspot, due to the relative youth of the trees and the ability to get close enough to the blossoms to take photos.

On the day I visited, the place was packed with people of all ages taking photos, having picnics and enjoying a Hakka concert and dance performance. I typically stay away from places like this, especially those that have become really popular with Instagram types but on this day, I didn’t really mind. I had a great time taking photos and people-watching.

I was also able to have a good laugh on several occasions as the beautiful young woman featured in some of the photos scolded her boyfriend for taking sub-par photos. One of her comments stuck with me: “The picture you took of me makes me look like a dinosaur!” (你把我拍的跟恐龍一樣).

I can’t imagine how stressful it is being the boyfriend of an aspiring Instagram beauty.

If you’re reading this and are interested in heading to the mountains to take some photos of the Tung Blossoms, I recommend going soon, before you do though, make sure to consult the Hakka Tung Blossom Festival website linked below. The website provides accurate advice on where are the best locations to view the blossoms and their current state.

Tung Blossoms: 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018

Tung Blossoms (油桐花)

Every year between the months of April and May, forests in many areas of Taiwan turn white thanks to the Tung Blossoms (油桐花) that grow throughout the mountains and hillsides of the country. Often referred to as as "April Snow" or "May Snow" (depending on when they are in full bloom), the arrival of Tung Blossom triggers a considerable amount of domestic tourism with people of all ages making an effort to travel to areas where the trees grow in abundance.

The Tung Tree (油桐樹) is a deciduous tree that grows to a height of about 20 meters. It is endemic to South China and Burma but was brought to Taiwan by the Japanese during the Japanese Colonial Era (1895-1945), and was planted in mountainous areas in north-western Taiwan for its economic uses.

The cultivation of the tree was became most important to the ethnic Hakka people of Taiwan who lived in the areas where the trees were cultivated. The tree brought with it economic benefits as its seeds were instrumental in the production of Tung Oil which was used to make paint, varnish, caulking and wood finish while the timber was used for making everything from furniture to toothpicks.

When the economic benefits of the Tung tree eventually subsided, it took on a new role transforming into a symbol of the Hakka people and the long lasting relationship that they have shared.

While not as popular as Cherry Blossoms, Tung blossoms are loved for their ability to turn hiking trails 'white' with a snowfall effect as the blossoms fall to the ground.

The popularity of Tung Blossoms has skyrocketed in recent years with young people, especially young couples who head to the mountains to have impromptu photoshoots with the blossoms. You’ll often see couples on hiking trails collecting blossoms that have fallen on the ground to arrange into a heart or young men putting the blossoms on a string to make a ‘Tung blossom crown’ for their girlfriends - endless amounts of cuteness, I assure you.

Hakka Tung Blossom Festival (客家桐花祭)

In 2002 the Council for Hakka Affairs started the annual "Hakka Tung Blossom Festival" (客家桐花祭) an annual event which takes places during the two month blooming season as a way to promote and help to preserve Taiwan’s Hakka culture.

The well-organized event attracts large crowds of tourists to Hakka areas of the country, most notably in Taoyuan, Hsinchu and Miaoli to not only see the blossoms but also to learn about and experience Hakka culture and cuisine. Organizers plan events according to the blooming season offering visitors entertainment and a festive atmosphere at the popular blossom viewing destinations.

I don’t heap praise too often on websites produced by the Taiwanese government, but the website for this festival is arguably one of the most beautiful and interactive spaces on the web. The site offers real-time information on the condition of the Tung Blossoms and the best places to view them by region. Likewise, the website is available in Chinese (Traditional and Simplified) as well as Japanese, Korean and English giving international tourists the opportunity to view the blossoms and experience the culture of one of Taiwan’s largest ethnic groups.

If you are thinking about checking out these beautiful blossoms, click one of the links below!

 Hakka Tung Blossom Festival Website: English | 中文 | 日語 | 조선말